PureOne vs. Mobil1 for extended OCI

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My fiancé has a 2004 Escape 3.0L V6. Ford calls for 5k oil change intervals and OKs the practice even with their own MotorCraft "semi-syn" 5w20 oil (which I don't really take as a true semi-syn, but that's another post).

Anyway, she drives approx. 25k miles per year for work, and I really don't want to (or feel it's really necessary to) change the oil in her car every 2 months. I want to extend the OCI to 7.5k or 8k miles (I'll even go 10k if I can!) I've already decided that Mobil1 0w20 will be my oil of choice for extended OCIs. But which filter would be best to pair with it - Mobil1's M1-210 or the PureOne PL24651? Both filters receive generally good reviews here. And frankly, I'm not worried about the $6 cost difference... that becomes negligible over the lifespan of the oil, IMO.

Let the opinions fly!
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Based on your "givens" ..I don't think that it matters too much which filter you use.

In all practicality ..with 25k a year ..this vehicle will be worth very little in a few years. The wear you may accumulate will pale compared to the depreciation for mileage.(more than the cost of a new engine). That is, it will be a really high mileage vehicle with a drivetrain that has much life left on it for the miles accumulated.

Do the 7.5k OCI and use either filter.
 
A late model gasoline engine post break-in and pre wearing-out seems to actually put very little strain on the oil filter.

I would use whichever Motorcraft filter is specified for your car. They are well made filters at very reasonable prices.

John
 
Save your money, I'd go with Pure 1, Fram TG, or and AC UFP for extended oil changes, none of them can be beaten for filtration.
 
Until the warranty is up, I’d go with Ford’s recommended oil change intervals as well as a Motorcraft oil filter. The Motorcraft filters are very good and are an excellent value. If you wish to extend the OCI and go with a “premium” filter, I’d go with the Mobil 1. IMO, Pure One’s are good filters but many models don’t have the bypass in the front end of the filter. Ford uses filters with the bypass in the front (open) end of the filter. Filters for the Escape with the bypass in the front include (I believe), Motorcraft, Napa Gold, Mobil 1, K&N, and probably Amsoil. I’m not sure about the Pure One.

Filters for the Escape that don’t have the bypass in the front include (I believe), all Frams, Purolator Premium Plus, Napa Silver, Supertech, STP, and possibly Bosch.

If it were mine, I'd probably stick with the Motorcraft filter even if I extended the OCI.

[ May 11, 2004, 09:23 AM: Message edited by: Brian Barnhart ]
 
go to Wal-mart where you can get Motorcraft FL820S's for $2.77ea that are made by Purolator and look to have the Pure1 element inside along with the bypass valve at the theaded end which is where Ford wants them, not at the far end where Purolator puts them. Buy one of each and cut them open and look at the difference, there won't be much except for the bypass location. PepBoys gets $3.79/Autozone gets $3.49ea for Motorcrafts. $2.77ea at Wal-mart is a great buy!!!!
 
Motorcraft filters do not have PureOne media in them.

Purolator could not (due to their agreement with Ford) release specs of the Motorcraft media. But the engineer I corresponded with was very explicit: Motorcraft and PureOne do not use identical media.

That said, the Motorcrafts are almost certainly excellent filters, especially considering the price.
 
being there is so little difference between regular Purolators and Pure1's in the testing claims/96percent against 98percent and the Motorcraft's that I have cut open elements have looked better than the reg purolator's, but you say they are not Pure1s, I guess we'll have to split the difference and say they are probaly in the middle- how about 97per cent efficent. For $2.77ea they are better than the reg Purlator that costs more along with the Pure1 that costs way to much considering Motrcraft has the better bypass with the silcone backflow valve!! I could care less how good the filter element is when they use the non-theaded end bypass that sends the filtered trash right back into the engine when or if it opens. I'll take the little less filtering with the treaded end bypass along with my 0/5-30 oil that has less change of opening the bypass on cold startups.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Schultz:
Save your money, I'd go with Pure 1, Fram TG, or and AC UFP for extended oil changes, none of them can be beaten for filtration.

Oh no someone recommended Fram
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[ May 11, 2004, 07:59 PM: Message edited by: Swift ]
 
Fair enough, gudmund
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I wish they had given me the specs for the Motorcraft, and I haven't gathered the willpower to start trying to get them out of Ford. They may not be that different, ultimately - this wouldn't particularly surprise me.

In my mind, the jury is still out on whether or not the threaded-end bypass valve is really that big of an issue - many OEM-branded filters put it at the closed end and seem to have no problems. I certainly can't refute your feeling that it is, though.
 
I've come to suspect (without any evidence whatsoever
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) that Ford uses the threaded-end bypass valve because many of their filters are mounted at a 45 degree angle. Not so with most other makes. Water and dirt then may be more susceptible to accumulating in the low point and washing back into the engine during bypass mode.
 
There is a long thread - or study - of the efficacy of oil filters - even eliminating them (I think it rivals the Investors thread). IMHO, if you extend you OCI, you might want less 'micronic' filtering since the filter could max out and then just shunt over to bypass 100% of the time. Besides, the argument is the particles are smaller than the clearance on the moving parts. To do micronic filtering right, use a Motorguard et al bypass filter. So ...
1. pick a good oil
2. do a UOA to match up OCI with your engine
Personally I've switched to the Ford type filters and oil seems to stay cleaner longer. Really, any filter should be good for intervals of 10K (in fact are more efficient after 3K). But they kick into bypass for a variety of reasons such as cold start/high pressure.

[ May 11, 2004, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: rg144 ]
 
quote:

Oh no someone recommended Fram

Yep, it has great filtration, and it's the only Ford filter I've come arcoss that has a screen on the bypass valve. OK it has the paper end caps, but that doesn't concern me that much.

quote:

Motorcraft filters do not have PureOne media in them.

That is what I have found too. When it comes to filtration the motorcraft is almost as good as a standard purilator.
 
Ok, but which would have the best filtration over a 7k to 10k interval.... Mobil1 or PureOne. I suppose I'm leaning to Mobil1.
 
From most of the filter studies I've read, the PureOne's tended to have a bit more media area than Mobil 1's (about 16% more for Honda applications, for example). More media is a plus for extended drains to limit the potential for clogging. Plus, as you probably already know, the PureOnes have a very fine filtering media (down to 11 micron), just like Mobil 1. I, for one, can't possibly see any justification for Mobil 1's prices. For me -- based on your original question -- PureOne would be the easy choice.

As others have mentioned, Motorcraft and Wix/Napa Gold are two good choices as well.
 
I'd lean more towards Pure One. Purolator has the reputation to pack a bunch of media in there that is very restrictive. Mobil one has a media that's similarly restrictive and filtration capability, but they do not put much media in there.


I'd go towards the purolator.
 
I do 6K mile OCI using Amsoil ATM 10w30 and a Motorcract FL1A oil filter. I install a new FLA1 after 3K miles...$3.50 per filter at Autozone.
 
From test I have seen on the Jeep forum web site I don't think any filter is better than the Mobil 1. However because of cost I use the Pureone. I believe with your trying to go 10,000 mile between changes you would be much better served using the Mobil 1 filter.
 
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