Preferred Break-In Method for a new (small) Bike?

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Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
I love it.
Swapping out the 41 tooth rear sprocket for a 35 made it a lot more civilized.
It works just like the Honda did 40 yrs ago .....
thumbsup2.gif


Enjoy your new ride !


Civilized - as in faster or what?
I live in a hilly area, so a lower gearing would be better for me.
 
middle of the road...neither baby it nor blast it! intermittently push the bike into upper rpm's then let off...key is to vary the load on the engine & transmission; occasionally drop down a gear & increase rpm's especially if you 'engine brake' to slowdown approaching a stop sign or traffic light; conventional oil & early oil changes (especially if there is not a dedicated oil filter to get metal shavings out of the engine & transmission); clean, lube, and adjust the chain diligently...the chain & sprockets also go thru a break-in & the wear might be higher during the break-in process when your shifting will be herky-jerky until you get a feel for the bike's nuances
 
1. Buy a good helmet, riding jacket, gloves and shoes over the ankle.

2, Ride it like you need to so some car does not run over you. Do not fear wide open. Let it warm up, ride around the neighborhood for an hour. Change the oil. High spots are going to be mostly gone and rings mostly seated. Then just ride it. If something is seriously bad machined or bad metal, it needs to break as soon as possible.

3. For the first few trips let it warm up.

4. at about 500 miles change oil again, if not much cuttings come out consider it broken in and ride it.

5, I am not a fan of warm up, get on. Start it, as soon as it runs well enough not to stall, go. This even if you pull out on a busy road from your parking lot. This is why they have multi-viscosity oil.

Rod
 
Any idea what size/thread the drain plug is on one of these?
2018 Kymco K-Pipe 125.

I want to replace the stock drain plug with a Magnetic drain plug.

Thanks.
 
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Originally Posted By: ragtoplvr
4. at about 500 miles change oil again, if not much cuttings come out consider it broken in and ride it.


I, being an OCD nut about early oil changes, changed it initially at 10, then again at 30, 75, and this morning at 150 miles. The first 2 OC's had a few shavings in the oil (first one especially), but at 150 miles - the oil looked really good (plastic bag method), and not enough sparkles in direct sun to worry about at all. Should be good to go, but i'll change it again at the manual-recommended 300-mile point.
 
initial ring seating is what you want to do asa you get the bike. You get it right or you miss it within first 50 miles.
Warm up the engine with easy lead to operating T.
Then give it bursts of lug (50% throttle). Keep it below 60% rpm. Never red line a new engine or even near red line.
With each burst lasting less than 1 minute, let up and ride easy to cool the rings down.
Rodo this at least 10 times or so. At this point your rings are seated properly or seated into the cylinder wall.
Change the oil when you can.
After this you continue time to time to lug the engine at higher and higher rpm. avoid constant speed and red lining first 1200 miles or so.
 
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Most of the vehicles including MCs are dino'ed at the factory and they do an engine lug to get vital infos for QC. hence, it is partially done but not fully. if you odometer reads 1 mile or something then you would know.
 
I vote ride it day 1 like you'll ride it forever. Don't lose sleep over this break-it scuttlebutt. Just have fun with the darn thing, that's what they're made for.
 
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