PP for 10,000 miles or 1 year?

Status
Not open for further replies.
+1
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: dave1251
What is the engine in question please post driving habits.


+1 - Not enough information for a blanket answer.

Pushrod engines will be easier on oil than DI/DOHC ones.
 
what would their warranty detail? blow up, spun bearing..? they would want some proof before shelling out some cash for a rebuild. or are you talking about breaking down and shearing out of grade?
 
Hi Hhummdrumm, The vehicle manufacturer sets oil change intervals and we do not recommend extending oil drain intervals beyond the manufacturer's recommendations. Anything else outside of the recommended interval may void your engine warranty and lead to bigger issues further down the road. Besides, part of the role of an engine oil is to clean and neutralize dirt and combustion by-products that the engine produces while just driving down the road. Engine Oils are also designed to hold all of that bad stuff in suspension, so that when the oil is changed all of the bad stuff is drained out from the engine as well. So, whether it is a synthetic oil or a cheaper conventional mineral oil, it doesn’t make sense to keep that bad stuff circulating around in your engine any longer than what the OEM recommends as their oil drain interval. However, the use of synthetic engine oil does offer advantages over conventional oils when used under extreme temperature conditions. At extremely low temperatures, synthetic motor oils have better flow properties and therefore, are easier to pump during engine start-up (before the engine is warm). This provides a better oil supply to the parts that need lubrication. Under operating conditions, which generate extremely high temperatures, such as towing heavy loads or sustaining high speeds for long periods of time, synthetic oils also offer added protection. This added protection occurs because the oil is more resistant to oxidation and thermal breakdown. Synthetic oils also have a lower volatility, resulting in less product loss at the higher temperatures associated with these extreme conditions. - The Pennzoil Team
 
If you're not going to ever open the engine up, 10,000 miles is fine. But if you offered to let me peak inside the engine after 10,000 miles on an oil change, I'd run away as fast as I could.
 
Originally Posted By: SuzanneClerkin
Under operating conditions, which generate extremely high temperatures, such as towing heavy loads or sustaining high speeds for long periods of time, synthetic oils also offer added protection. This added protection occurs because the oil is more resistant to oxidation and thermal breakdown. Synthetic oils also have a lower volatility, resulting in less product loss at the higher temperatures associated with these extreme conditions. - The Pennzoil Team


Does that mean that synthetic oils are more resistant to forming varnish stains? Varnish stains are my arch enemy and is the primary reason why I would never attempt 10,000 miles for an oil change interval.
 
Originally Posted By: SuzanneClerkin
Engine Oils are also designed to hold all of that bad stuff in suspension, so that when the oil is changed all of the bad stuff is drained out from the engine as well. So, whether it is a synthetic oil or a cheaper conventional mineral oil, it doesn’t make sense to keep that bad stuff circulating around in your engine any longer than what the OEM recommends as their oil drain interval.


Bad stuff, umm scary... But not so enough that I'll be deviating from my one year OCI...

UOA have proved time and time again synthetic oils can be just fine at 10K and far longer...
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
UOA have proved time and time again synthetic oils can be just fine at 10K and far longer...


Ah, but the UOA don't tell you how much sludge and varnish is built up inside the engine. I want my engine to look the same inside at 400,000 miles as it did at 20 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
If you're not going to ever open the engine up, 10,000 miles is fine. But if you offered to let me peak inside the engine after 10,000 miles on an oil change, I'd run away as fast as I could.

OK, I will bite-why? There have been plenty of photos posted of engines going 10K or longer on an OCI with no sludge. Are you being serious with this post or just
Trolling.gif
?
 
Consider 2 identical 400k miles everyday vehicles with decent body and interior, 1 with spotless engine and 1 with heavy vanish engine but both run the same, which one worth $500-600 more than the other ? The one with clean engine may worth $100-200 more, if any.

At 400k miles, no vehicle is worth more than $1k.
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4

OK, I will bite-why? There have been plenty of photos posted of engines going 10K or longer on an OCI with no sludge. Are you being serious with this post or just
Trolling.gif
?


It's not only sludge I'm concerned about, it's varnish. Not only does varnish look terrible, it also impedes the flow of oil. If you remove all the oil off a varnished engine part, what you'll have left behind is a brown sticky surface. I don't want that in my engine. I want my engine to be clean and bright inside - that's why I always say there's more to think about when determining an oil OCI than just how long the oil will lubricate.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4

OK, I will bite-why? There have been plenty of photos posted of engines going 10K or longer on an OCI with no sludge. Are you being serious with this post or just
Trolling.gif
?

It's not only sludge I'm concerned about, it's varnish. Not only does varnish look terrible, it also impedes the flow of oil. If you remove all the oil off a varnished engine part, what you'll have left behind is a brown sticky surface. I don't want that in my engine. I want my engine to be clean and bright inside - that's why I always say there's more to think about when determining an oil OCI than just how long the oil will lubricate.
There are plenty of photos that also show no varnish at 10K or more. Unless you have a known sludger, today's synthetics can easily handle a 10K+ OCI with no varnish, sludge, or other detriment deposited in the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Consider 2 identical 400k miles everyday vehicles with decent body and interior, 1 with spotless engine and 1 with heavy vanish engine but both run the same, which one worth $500-600 more than the other ? The one with clean engine may worth $100-200 more, if any.

At 400k miles, no vehicle is worth more than $1k.


Good point, its time to sober up the thinking and expectations for engine oil on this Forum.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4

OK, I will bite-why? There have been plenty of photos posted of engines going 10K or longer on an OCI with no sludge. Are you being serious with this post or just
Trolling.gif
?


It's not only sludge I'm concerned about, it's varnish. Not only does varnish look terrible, it also impedes the flow of oil. If you remove all the oil off a varnished engine part, what you'll have left behind is a brown sticky surface. I don't want that in my engine. I want my engine to be clean and bright inside - that's why I always say there's more to think about when determining an oil OCI than just how long the oil will lubricate.



Yeah its all about bragging rights. It would feel pretty good to show off an engine with 200k that looks new.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: hummdrumm
In general, change intervals for standard Mobil 1 are stated as 10,000 miles or one year. Is it considered the same for PP?


XOM likes to tout the long drain potential of M1 while SOPUS is more conservative in its claims for PP.
In an engine design that doesn't tear up oil used under driving conditions where the oil almost always gets up to temperature and stays there for a while on most cold starts, I'd say that either oil could probably go 10K.
In short trip use, especially in cold weather, I wouldn't run either for 10K in any application.
You'll find good 10K+ UOAs of both oils in that forum, along with some that are less inspiring.
 
Geeez a little varnish isn't any concern(if my engines had any), the race engine builders often paint the inside of their engines to aid in oil flow(slide) back to the pan... Could say they are pre-varnished...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom