Power Transfer Unit (PTU)- 75W-140 recommendations
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If this was mine, I would take it about three steps further after tapping the bottom and add a temp sensor, and a oil pump like one from setrab triggered when the sensor reads about 160F or so. The oil pump can then pump it to a OTA cooler at the front of the car. This will probably add like another quart of capacity. If you want to get really crazy, you could add a common 3/4-16 filter head inline and add a filter, like maybe a PH3614 would probably be plenty. But you have other choices like a PH3600, PH16 or PH8A
The heavy duty cooler option from Ford is like 3 grand or something. I bet I could put together the whole system, with crimped hoses from a hydraulic shop for less than 1/2 that.
The heavy duty cooler option from Ford is like 3 grand or something. I bet I could put together the whole system, with crimped hoses from a hydraulic shop for less than 1/2 that.
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You are correct again, as it is so close to the cat con on my X that there's barely enough room to get the 38/" drive ratchet in there to loosen the fill plug.
One good idea would be to wrap the PTU in some type of insulating tape to keep the heat of the cat con away.
I'm pretty sure that I would have an identical picture if I were to open up my PTU at this point. It's still puking a little bit of fluid out of the top vent, but it's still a work in progress.
P.S. - go easy on us bean counters. Some of us actually have a brain and would think of the unintended consequences of this type of cost cutting measure.
One good idea would be to wrap the PTU in some type of insulating tape to keep the heat of the cat con away.
I'm pretty sure that I would have an identical picture if I were to open up my PTU at this point. It's still puking a little bit of fluid out of the top vent, but it's still a work in progress.
P.S. - go easy on us bean counters. Some of us actually have a brain and would think of the unintended consequences of this type of cost cutting measure.
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There is a posting on the Edge forums where a guy had one on the bench and measured to the mm where to place the hole. I just eyed it up the best I could and aimed for the middle of the lowest flat spot I could reach.
I really wanted to put the hole to the left of where the plug is because it is the true low spot on the case, but there is a small ridge in the casting that you can see where I tried to scratch it down a bit that might not let the drill bit stay where you want it. If you can center punch it deep enough and drill there, there's plenty of room inside before you'd hit any gears.
I really wanted to put the hole to the left of where the plug is because it is the true low spot on the case, but there is a small ridge in the casting that you can see where I tried to scratch it down a bit that might not let the drill bit stay where you want it. If you can center punch it deep enough and drill there, there's plenty of room inside before you'd hit any gears.
The Edge, CX-9, and MKX all share the same transfer case with the low 1/2qt capacity and non-existent drain plug.
I use these along with a ratcheting wrench to access the hard to read fill plug. Pump out the fluid and top off with new. I've been using RP 75w140 and have done the process twice. I will be doing it again before vacation season begins.
I use these along with a ratcheting wrench to access the hard to read fill plug. Pump out the fluid and top off with new. I've been using RP 75w140 and have done the process twice. I will be doing it again before vacation season begins.
1 pint for a drivetrain box? How did that not immediately draw red flags?
Reminds me of the stupid stuff they do with marine gearboxes. Those boxes have to be running hot as a beast, and foul their fluid quickly. 1 pint does not take a long time to heat load.
I'd change that oil with every engine oil change.
If it were me, I would do like previously mentioned: Turbowerx pump drawing from the bottom of installed drain plug area, up to a filter, cooler, and then back to the unit. I'd use a good 1 quart sized filter that would really punch out the oil capacity.
Reminds me of the stupid stuff they do with marine gearboxes. Those boxes have to be running hot as a beast, and foul their fluid quickly. 1 pint does not take a long time to heat load.
I'd change that oil with every engine oil change.
If it were me, I would do like previously mentioned: Turbowerx pump drawing from the bottom of installed drain plug area, up to a filter, cooler, and then back to the unit. I'd use a good 1 quart sized filter that would really punch out the oil capacity.
I read on another forum that they found the PTU to be the hottest component under the car, even hotter than the cats but I'm not sure what measuring device they used. I have a thermal imager that I should try using the next time around.
Cats run at 900 degrees. I'm fairly certain the PTU is not getting anywhere close to that.
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
You are correct again, as it is so close to the cat con on my X that there's barely enough room to get the 38/" drive ratchet in there to loosen the fill plug.
One good idea would be to wrap the PTU in some type of insulating tape to keep the heat of the cat con away.
I'm pretty sure that I would have an identical picture if I were to open up my PTU at this point. It's still puking a little bit of fluid out of the top vent, but it's still a work in progress.
P.S. - go easy on us bean counters. Some of us actually have a brain and would think of the unintended consequences of this type of cost cutting measure.
Possibly make a sheet steel heat barrier to put between the cat and PTU if the radiant heat is too much.
You are correct again, as it is so close to the cat con on my X that there's barely enough room to get the 38/" drive ratchet in there to loosen the fill plug.
One good idea would be to wrap the PTU in some type of insulating tape to keep the heat of the cat con away.
I'm pretty sure that I would have an identical picture if I were to open up my PTU at this point. It's still puking a little bit of fluid out of the top vent, but it's still a work in progress.
P.S. - go easy on us bean counters. Some of us actually have a brain and would think of the unintended consequences of this type of cost cutting measure.
Possibly make a sheet steel heat barrier to put between the cat and PTU if the radiant heat is too much.
My mom's 2014 Fusion has a drain and fill plug on the PTU. I need to get it in the air and change the fluid, it has 17k miles.
FWIW we replace a ton of cats and PTUs on the CHP Explorers or as we are supposed to call them "Police Utility Interceptors."
FWIW we replace a ton of cats and PTUs on the CHP Explorers or as we are supposed to call them "Police Utility Interceptors."
Are they ordering them with the heavy duty PTU cooling option? (Do you know?) From what I understand all the PIs have PTU cooling standard, but the Utilitys can be ordered with the 'upgraded' cooling.
Ive been lusting for a EcoBoost Utility Interceptor for quite some time. Talked to someone about ordering one to my spec awhile back, don't know if that option is still available to me.
Ive been lusting for a EcoBoost Utility Interceptor for quite some time. Talked to someone about ordering one to my spec awhile back, don't know if that option is still available to me.
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All the CHP ones are 3.7L V6s. Not sure about the cooling, I just punch in the VIN and then 7251 (the Ford base number for PTUs) and order what comes up. The last one we replaced, the tech found it was bad while doing the cats under warranty. The PTU was completely covered in fluid and there was none in the assembly.
Okay, I looked back over the 2016 Order Guide and the enhanced cooler requires the EB engine. So that answers that.
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
All the CHP ones are 3.7L V6s. Not sure about the cooling, I just punch in the VIN and then 7251 (the Ford base number for PTUs) and order what comes up. The last one we replaced, the tech found it was bad while doing the cats under warranty. The PTU was completely covered in fluid and there was none in the assembly.
For gear oil to do that, Temps have to be getting well over 300F. In my experience with marine gearboxes, they can run all day long with Temps hovering around 280F, using 80/90 semi-syn gear oil. About 320F is where it starts blowing out of the vent tube.
For those to do that with Ford's 75/140 syn? That thing has to be cracking 350F easily.
All the CHP ones are 3.7L V6s. Not sure about the cooling, I just punch in the VIN and then 7251 (the Ford base number for PTUs) and order what comes up. The last one we replaced, the tech found it was bad while doing the cats under warranty. The PTU was completely covered in fluid and there was none in the assembly.
For gear oil to do that, Temps have to be getting well over 300F. In my experience with marine gearboxes, they can run all day long with Temps hovering around 280F, using 80/90 semi-syn gear oil. About 320F is where it starts blowing out of the vent tube.
For those to do that with Ford's 75/140 syn? That thing has to be cracking 350F easily.
You are likely correct about the temp they are reaching. Even though I've cleaned out as much as I could of the sludge, it's still pushing some oil out of the vent on my 20 mile commute.
I'm running a 75W-90 right now for cleaning purposes, and part of me hopes that a lighter lube sheds heat better is actually true.
I wish I had the sheet metal skills to fab up something to protect it from the converter.
I'm running a 75W-90 right now for cleaning purposes, and part of me hopes that a lighter lube sheds heat better is actually true.
I wish I had the sheet metal skills to fab up something to protect it from the converter.
MolaKule, would a product like RL Heavy Shockproof be better than even their 75W-140? I wish they'd post the PDS info on their site about the Shockproof lubes.
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
MolaKule, would a product like RL Heavy Shockproof be better than even their 75W-140? I wish they'd post the PDS info on their site about the Shockproof lubes.
I've never liked how vague Redline is about whether Shockproof will protect hypoid gears or not.
MolaKule, would a product like RL Heavy Shockproof be better than even their 75W-140? I wish they'd post the PDS info on their site about the Shockproof lubes.
I've never liked how vague Redline is about whether Shockproof will protect hypoid gears or not.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
All the CHP ones are 3.7L V6s. Not sure about the cooling, I just punch in the VIN and then 7251 (the Ford base number for PTUs) and order what comes up. The last one we replaced, the tech found it was bad while doing the cats under warranty. The PTU was completely covered in fluid and there was none in the assembly.
For gear oil to do that, Temps have to be getting well over 300F. In my experience with marine gearboxes, they can run all day long with Temps hovering around 280F, using 80/90 semi-syn gear oil. About 320F is where it starts blowing out of the vent tube.
For those to do that with Ford's 75/140 syn? That thing has to be cracking 350F easily.
350F would be disgusting. Hopefully someone will get a temperature sensor in one of these to show what its doing.
With temps that high, I don't think any amount of bandaging with regular lube changes is going to save it. The bearing manufacturers don't recommend they be subject to heat much over 250F or something like that, IIRC.
I'd be for getting a pump and cooler on it to try to control the temperatures.
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
All the CHP ones are 3.7L V6s. Not sure about the cooling, I just punch in the VIN and then 7251 (the Ford base number for PTUs) and order what comes up. The last one we replaced, the tech found it was bad while doing the cats under warranty. The PTU was completely covered in fluid and there was none in the assembly.
For gear oil to do that, Temps have to be getting well over 300F. In my experience with marine gearboxes, they can run all day long with Temps hovering around 280F, using 80/90 semi-syn gear oil. About 320F is where it starts blowing out of the vent tube.
For those to do that with Ford's 75/140 syn? That thing has to be cracking 350F easily.
350F would be disgusting. Hopefully someone will get a temperature sensor in one of these to show what its doing.
With temps that high, I don't think any amount of bandaging with regular lube changes is going to save it. The bearing manufacturers don't recommend they be subject to heat much over 250F or something like that, IIRC.
I'd be for getting a pump and cooler on it to try to control the temperatures.
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