Plans for a super-heater system.

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firemachine69

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So after discussing with quite a few knowledgeable sources, it seems that my 2.2 OHV in my Sunfire was nowhere near as sensitive as my DOHC Yaris to temperature swings. Seeing as how my new apartment has a serious outlet system for vehicles, and only about 1 in twenty cars actually use it (god knows why, we've been at -30C for far too long), I'm going to take advantage.
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Plans are:

-A three-plug splitter (special version that fits through the grill via a sealed splice).
-The stock block heater
-A 1000W oil pan stick-on heater
-A 260W inline coolant heater

Total cost is under $200 for all the new stuff (if you don't count the original $200 for a factory-installed block heater). And $150 for a flush and the labour from the Toyota stealership to install the inline rad heater (they said they'd honour the warranty with these aftermarket 'toys' if they installed them... Fine by me. The flush runs $105 for itself usually.)


Anyone know the size of the lower-rad hose on a Yaris, and especially, a picture? Having muchos trouble finding that kind of info. And I forgot to look before I left home.
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And a "rust-block" electronic doohickey.
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Heck I almost want to install a block heater where I live. It rarely gets into the high teens.....

Go for it.....

I would think the hose inside diameter would be about -1/4 less than the outside diameter.
 
Originally Posted By: firemachine69

Plans are:

-A three-plug splitter (special version that fits through the grill via a sealed splice).
-The stock block heater
-A 1000W oil pan stick-on heater
-A 260W inline coolant heater


How many watts does the stock block heater use? If you are getting above ~1500W total between all 3 heaters and this is a 15A circuit, you will push the limits of that circuit and trip the breaker.

Joel
 
I used a 250 watt pan heater an my winter temps rarely go below 0F/-5F (this year the exception). I leave it plugged in all the time and I recall putting a thermometer against the pan one 0F day and backing it with a heavy glove. It read about 80F.

Now I have a 125 watt and was getting pan readings with my infra thermometer of about 40F on outside of pan, so oil must be somewhat warmer. Ideally I would go 250 watt but does not fit my pan well.

Actually, if boiling the oil won't hurt it, then have at it. The 1000 watt alone will do the trick as there will be tons of heat rising up through the engine bay, no need for the other heaters. You will get a big jump on the electric bill, so unless you have cheap hydroelectric power, maybe not.
 
It's his landlords bill I think. :D

Guy I work with lived in alaska and had a 4-way splitter under the hood as you describe, I think he had a battery blanket too.

My car has a treat I've only used a couple times, an extention cord that ends on the passenger footwell... so I can run a forced air space heater inside. Cozy! The forced air types are best for small spaces as they don't overheat what's near 'em. Still slightly dangerous.
 
1000 watts seems like overkill. What are your plans?

Gonna have it on a timer or something to run it maybe a 1/2 to hour before you go?

Anyone have any idea what these cost to run per hour?
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
1000 watts seems like overkill. What are your plans?

Gonna have it on a timer or something to run it maybe a 1/2 to hour before you go?

Anyone have any idea what these cost to run per hour?


Yeah, but he can have fully cooked bacon ready to go when he gets in the vehicle...
 
Originally Posted By: swalve
Originally Posted By: ZZman
1000 watts seems like overkill. What are your plans?

Gonna have it on a timer or something to run it maybe a 1/2 to hour before you go?

Anyone have any idea what these cost to run per hour?


Yeah, but he can have fully cooked bacon ready to go when he gets in the vehicle...



Price to run is no concern. As noted above, the apartment I'm moving into has a HUGE plug-in system that no one cares to use, so I'm taking advantage.


There's a slight change of plans, my oil pan is ribbed, I forgot about that, meaning now I'm stuck to a 1.5"x6" strip that 'only'
puts out 125W. The stock block heater is only 75W IIRC. I'm not worried about cooking the oil, I run really short city trips (mostly under three miles, lots of "parking lot hopping" by my better half), and condensation is a much larger concern in my mind. Besides, it floats around -20C to -30C for the most part of our winter.

The inline coolant heater is a no-go. Talked to the ASA tech at the stealership, he concurred that it would not work on my type of radiator. On the flip-side, I'm going to get a battery heater instead (the "pad" type).

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My bigger problem is my block heater shorted out... So I have to get it replaced under warranty... Add to the fact that I hit a bad pothole the few nights ago... Now I'm stuck with a bent rim to replace.
 
Originally Posted By: firemachine69

The inline coolant heater is a no-go. Talked to the ASA tech at the stealership, he concurred that it would not work on my type of radiator. On the flip-side, I'm going to get a battery heater instead (the "pad" type).



You could still rig up one like this.

http://www.warehouseautoparts.com/Specia...13200_13222.htm

Do the inlet to the heater from the block drain and the outlet from the heater to the inlet heater hose. That way it will circulate the heated coolant through the heater core and you'll have instant heat from the vents!
 
You're over-thinking this way, way to much. The stock block heater is all you need, especially on a Toyota. They always start well. I'd worry more about the Sunfire - I drive a 2002 OHV Cavalier, and with the stock block heater plugged in all night, It only starts marginally better below -15C. THAT vehicle need a better heater, not that I'm getting one, but it also has a smooth pan to put a larger heater on.
 
Must be your battery on the Sunfire. -30 a few nights ago, my Sunfire just purred right over (needed to move it to change the oil in the Yaris - fill in the Sunfire is over two years old - PP - and no OCI in sight yet!)


I'm not over-thinking this, unfortunately. We're getting 25mpg US average in the winter time, because the ECU holds the transmission back in second or third gear until certain operating temps are reached (meaning it's screaming at 3000-5000rpm for most of our trips). The remote starter sort of helps on the abuse the engine sees, however it costs money to let your car idle (average of 23mpg).
wink.gif


My Yaris has failed to start on a cold night when it was below -30C (block heater not usable where I work for the most part). Worst thing was, it was only left sitting around for three days. The minuscule OEM 300CCA Panasonic battery likely has something to do with it.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Originally Posted By: Challenger71
http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=63

http://www.designengineering.com/images/downloads/Performance_Improvements_Heater_Hotter.pdf


Wow! "Heater Hotter" seems to have broken the bounds of physics and thermo-dynamics! NASA must be beating a path to their door! Well done!


Its probably the same as water wetter and it probably does conduct more heat, but you are right, how does an engine warm up faster? Where is this extra heat comming from?
 
I'm pretty sure my battery is fine - its not that old.

I should clairfy, my car has never failed to start - its just at -25, it cranks labourously from thickened oil.

You REALLY have to get rid of that Yaris - you shouldn't have nearly the problems you are having with it, and a new car, especially a Toyota, not starting? I wouldn't tolerate that!

You should look into suing Toyota to buy the car back, or let you out of the deal.
 
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