Pickle fork or hammer technique?

[Kestas]

I've tried pitman arm pullers and separators before. They never worked for me. It's pickle fork and hammer for me.

I tried one hammer trick I was taught, where you use two hammers and hit opposite sides of the taper hole at the same time. Done right the taper shaft pops right out. But you need room to swing both hammers.

 

[WyrTwister]

Thanks , all , for all the ideas ,

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Kool1

+1,000

I bought this one for $20.00 at Harbor Freight. At the time I bought it they had a coupon special that also included a free multi-meter. I don't know if the meter is any good as I put it away and never used it but the deal sure is great. I've used the Harbor Freight ball joint remover on ball joints and tie rod ends. I think it's really been money well spent.


people who have problems with those tend to be trying to torque it all the way.

Put a decent load on it, and place an anvil (hammer head) on one side of the female part, and rap the other side with a couple of smart hammer blows...i.e. on the sides, and they usually pop...

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: exranger06
I've had really good luck loosening tie rod ends using a pitman arm puller. You can sometimes use them for ball joints too.

Heh heh, compared to a 2 LB hammer That IS exotic

I bought the large and the small puller like this for when I did the front end on my Jeep.

The small is too small and the big is too big.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: Kool1
I bought this one for $20.00 at Harbor Freight. At the time I bought it they had a coupon special that also included a free multi-meter. I don't know if the meter is any good as I put it away and never used it but the deal sure is great. I've used the Harbor Freight ball joint remover on ball joints and tie rod ends. I think it's really been money well spent.

Might have to give this a try as my Moog components didn't hold up too well.

 

[Silk]

I have pickle forks for tie road and another for ball joints - only when replacing them, or where hammer access is difficult. 99% of the time I use a hammer - a couple of good smacks and it's free. I can't afford the time to use the so called ball joint puller - by the time you've got your puller out of the draw and set it up, I've got top and bottom ball joints and the tie rod end off. The important part is to get the weight off the joint, it'll never come free loaded.

I did a lower ball joint on a Mazda MPV today, they don't have a taper, but a straight shaft and a clamping bolt. Tight in the carrier, it took much longer to get it out than if it was just a taper.

 

[WyrTwister]

I have seen videos of removing ball joints that have a pinch bolt . In the rust belt .

Seems the rust and dirt / crud finds its way into all of those spaces .

Best of luck ,

 

[andyd]

I try to remove stuff intact. I'm building a wish list for HF. I borrowed a Pitman arm puller. A good one, to use on my Willys. I cranked the be-jeezus out of that thing. Nothing! In anger, I hit the arm, more in frustration than purpose. The arm popped. A light bulb went off. Create tension, however possible. Then a well aimed shot. Bango. The hammer alone, may not be enough. You get seduced by the hammer.Its fun.Sooner or later it will work. Until it doesn't. Some wood and a 1 ton bottle jack, levers. Doesn't take much.

 

[Subdued]

Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
I have seen videos of removing ball joints that have a pinch bolt . In the rust belt .

Seems the rust and dirt / crud finds its way into all of those spaces .

Best of luck ,

Here in the rust belt the only thing that works is:

-Buy replacement ball joint if you need to remove it for any reason

-Grind off rusted on crown nut

-Pickle fork + BFH = catharsis

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: ford46guy


I had one like that, snapped after about 10 uses. I did really crank it down. My suggestion is as it starts getting tight(and after each rotation) strike it hard with a hammer, or an impact. The compression and impact will release even the worst stuck joints.


This is true for all sorts of pullers. Those cast 3-jaw gear pullers snap real easy but some vibration taps along the way really help 'em. So does anti-sieze on the threads.

 

[ZZman]

Used a 3 pound hammer on it and after 3 hits it popped right off.