Pick a ULV trans fluid for me

Joined
Mar 28, 2010
Messages
2,107
Location
Michigan
I'm thinking of doing a drain and fill on my 2023 GMC Sierra 1500 3.0 duramax. It has a PPE pan on it so it's pretty easy to drain and fill roughly 12 quarts. Here are my choices so far in no particular order:

1. ACDelco ULV $62/12 quarts from rock auto
2. Valvoline ULV $75/12 quarts from rock auto
3. HPL Teal ULV $157/12 quarts with the BITOG discount
4. Amsoil Signature Series ULV $182/12 quarts preferred customer price.
All are plus shipping

I know that the HPL and Amsoil products have the quality edge but with ACDelco & Valvoline I could do 2 drain and fills and have some $ left over. So what do you all think?
 
I'm thinking of doing a drain and fill on my 2023 GMC Sierra 1500 3.0 duramax. It has a PPE pan on it so it's pretty easy to drain and fill roughly 12 quarts. Here are my choices so far in no particular order:

1. ACDelco ULV $62/12 quarts from rock auto
2. Valvoline ULV $75/12 quarts from rock auto
3. HPL Teal ULV $157/12 quarts with the BITOG discount
4. Amsoil Signature Series ULV $182/12 quarts preferred customer price.
All are plus shipping

I know that the HPL and Amsoil products have the quality edge but with ACDelco & Valvoline I could do 2 drain and fills and have some $ left over. So what do you all think?
Amsoil
 
Any officially licensed fluid, I do not recommend ordering it online but that is your choice.

You might actually be able to get a better deal at the dealership for some ACDelco.
 
Delco for me. It's exactly what I did. I also have a PPE Pan on a 2024 Tahoe and plan for 30k fluid changes and then revisit the filter again at 100k. I am at 21k right now. Did it at 19k.

I see you have the Diesel... so nice you don't have to drop the Y-pipe for filter changes!
 
As iffy as the 10R/10L valve bodies can be it is more important to get fresh fluid in and particles out. If you have the coin to spend on premium fluids, by all means, go for it, but they won't do anything for getting debris out of the trans.

That's why I tend to use just regular ol Dex/Merc ULV or Valvoline if it is on sale and follow an aggressive D&F schedule.
 
I'm thinking of doing a drain and fill on my 2023 GMC Sierra 1500 3.0 duramax. It has a PPE pan on it so it's pretty easy to drain and fill roughly 12 quarts. Here are my choices so far in no particular order:

1. ACDelco ULV $62/12 quarts from rock auto
2. Valvoline ULV $75/12 quarts from rock auto
3. HPL Teal ULV $157/12 quarts with the BITOG discount
4. Amsoil Signature Series ULV $182/12 quarts preferred customer price.
All are plus shipping

I know that the HPL and Amsoil products have the quality edge but with ACDelco & Valvoline I could do 2 drain and fills and have some $ left over. So what do you all think?
Everything I have read outside the car company's recommendations has led to Valvoline. I have stuck with all Valvoline oils for autos for several years. They are also an oil company and do their own research. I stick with the synthetics which look cleaner when changing oil. I have been doing it for 60 years. Forty years ago, I used to rebuild car engines. I got to the point where I could guess how often a person would change their oil. Definite difference between 3000-mile changes and 6000-mile changes. Engine blocks were really worn with 6000-mile oil changes. I have stuck with 3000 mile changes with new cars of today. Even todays polymer molecule chains break down quite a bit within 1000 miles. In other words, the oil thins out well before 3000 miles.

About a year ago I tried 0-20 in my BMW Z3 2.8L. Took it out 3 weeks later with only 10 miles on change. Car sat for 3 weeks after oil change. We I went to start it; it was almost stuck. When it did start, the engine bounce around like dry and no oil. I took that **** out right away and back to 5W - 30. Then it starts smooth every time. In those three weeks the thin oil just drained down to the bottom leaving little between parts, dry. Keep in mind even the 5W-30 breaks down a lot by 1000 miles. Plenty of studies on that.
 
Do any of the fluids other than Amsoil state you can double the severe service manufacturer's interval? They must be proud of their ATF fluids to state that. I'm sure they did some testing to state that. For example my 2024 Toyota Rav4 Prime's severe service interval for eCVT transaxle is 60,000 miles for Toyota WS. So according to Amsoil I can run it to 120,000 miles for Severe Service use. Not my word's but Amsoil's.
 
As iffy as the 10R/10L valve bodies can be it is more important to get fresh fluid in and particles out. If you have the coin to spend on premium fluids, by all means, go for it, but they won't do anything for getting debris out of the trans.

That's why I tend to use just regular ol Dex/Merc ULV or Valvoline if it is on sale and follow an aggressive D&F schedule.
This is honestly the best advice. Keep the 10L clean.
 
I'm a huge fan of the Amsoil ATF. It has fantastic performance in some of my rigs that were getting a little sketchy. If you can afford it, do that with the severe service change interval. If not, the Valvoline and AC Delco on a regular schedule. Do you tow with this truck?
 
I'm a huge fan of the Amsoil ATF. It has fantastic performance in some of my rigs that were getting a little sketchy. If you can afford it, do that with the severe service change interval. If not, the Valvoline and AC Delco on a regular schedule. Do you tow with this truck?
No towing so far
 
I just walked two gallons of amsoil signature series in to the garage today. It is excellent fluid and I’ve used it for … over a decade now in a number of vehicles.

That said, GM got serious with the DEX VI specification and I suspect their current fluids follow suit. Valvoline certainly makes a great oil. I’m with @ctechbob - frequency is more important than picking hairs between what you are looking at.

if you tow heavy, I’d suggest amsoil, but also, if you tow heavy, it must be noted that transmissions are actively cooled, while differentials are not. Differentials need lovin’ too!
 
OP — have you looked into the cooler thermostat bypass? I see them for the 10L with the 3.0 Diesel, but never for the gassers. I’ve read that the diesel keeps the trans fluid warmer?

FWIW my 10L80 rarely gets above 135-140 in winter, and on hot summer days I have to really be dogging it to get it to 170. Towing and driving respectfully I maybe saw 165-170. I’m pleased with how cool it runs.
 
Back
Top Bottom