The 3.6 V6 in the new-to-me Ram seems to be running fine. I've read about the lifter issues, but from what I gather, they seem to be from older model years. While the GM 3.6 obviously has very little in common, the 3.6 V6 in my 2010 Traverse was notorious for timing chain issues. I tended to change it every 5,000 in that and made it to 170,000 miles before the dreaded timing chain codes started to appear. What's the consensus on a 2021 Pentastar V6? Follow the OLM? Change more frequently? Valvoline synthetic or Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 OK?
Pentastar 3.6 recommendations
- Thread starter Dave Sherman
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its not even GDI. engine is relatively easy on oil.
The rocker arm issues are from poor quality parts..
AFAIK those spec 5w20.. m1 ep would be my choice.
any name brand would be fine though.
If normal driving I'd probably do 6-8k changes.. maybe a shorter winter one.
The rocker arm issues are from poor quality parts..
AFAIK those spec 5w20.. m1 ep would be my choice.
any name brand would be fine though.
If normal driving I'd probably do 6-8k changes.. maybe a shorter winter one.
Nothing wrong with the PP you plan on using 
The best filter to use is the Fram Endurance.
The best filter to use is the Fram Endurance.
3.6 Pentastar is a nice reliable engine, every engine family has their bad batches etc but overall a good running engine and easy on oil. We have a wrangler with it and run Mobil 1 0W20 Ep with a fram ultra filter. Mobil 1 EP is one of better off the shelf oils you can buy
My previous grand caravan with the previous gen 3.6 went 220k before I traded it in, ran perfect, no leaks and didn’t burn oil. As always pennzoil plat or Mobil 1 in that. I just followed the OLM it’s whole life and never a problem.
My previous grand caravan with the previous gen 3.6 went 220k before I traded it in, ran perfect, no leaks and didn’t burn oil. As always pennzoil plat or Mobil 1 in that. I just followed the OLM it’s whole life and never a problem.
Thanks all, the truck is the daily driver and it tows our camper occasionally. Manual and cap spec 0W-20.
The main bugaboo on these is the oil filter housing; most eventually leak. Oil pools in the v between the heads & runs down over the transmission.
I can speak from A LOT of experience. I have the GM 3.6DI in my Cadillac CTS and have the 3.6 Pentastar in a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with 160k trouble free miles and a 3.6 in a Jeep Gladiator with 48k miles. The GM motor cannot hold a candle to the Pentastar for economy, power and simple reliability. The fact that the Pentastar is not DI sweetens the deal. I use either Mobil 1 5w/30 or QSUD 5w/30 and change intervals are between 5-7k. I would recommend you run the 5w/30 vs the 20wt - just my opinion and the motor was always spec'd for 5w/30 until the switched for (probably) small MPG gains.
FWIW I’m currently using Citgo 5w30 FS HM in our 2014 T&C with the 3.6L. I’ve used a variety of Mobil and some Citgo oils with decent results. I always tend to use 5w30 regardless of brand.
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
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FCA uses Pennzoil as a Factory fill I believe stay with that .
The questionable FCA parts will probably bite you before oil selection matters.
It's a great engine and transmission for that truck. I owned a 2017 Ram 1500 with one from 12k miles to 60k. Zero issues. I ran 5w30 in mine and didn't exceed 6k miles between OCIs. With my use, that was at 50% oil life remaining. No way I'd take it to zero. I'd be at 10-12k miles.
Like said, all the plastic cooling system bits and the oil filter housing can be the trouble spots. If you hear ticking, get it addresses asap to avoid a more costly repair.
Like said, all the plastic cooling system bits and the oil filter housing can be the trouble spots. If you hear ticking, get it addresses asap to avoid a more costly repair.
The good thing about a ram 1500 classic with one of these engines is, they are a relatively simple/basic truck per today's standards. Most of the components have been around for over 10yrs at this point and there's ample room to work on them.
I'm wondering if that's from people overtightening. It's a plastic housing and the cap is sealed with an O-ring. Therefore there's absolutely no reason to try and torque it down any further once it's fully tight. I may go as far to suggest that you loosen the cap by 1/4 turn after it's bottomed out to relieve stress.
^^...or just turn the oil filter housing down until it shoulders out. That they publish a torque spec is funny to me.
Some mechanically disinclined person yarning on that housing with a torque wrench (don't know the spec) after it has shouldered out is ludicrous.
Some mechanically disinclined person yarning on that housing with a torque wrench (don't know the spec) after it has shouldered out is ludicrous.
Yeah, as soon as the ridge on the cap touches the housing, I stop. I guess the o-rings underneath can fail also, but I haven’t experienced that on my 10 year old 3.6, yet. Fingers crossed.
Anything meeting MS-6395 will work, XW20 or XW30.
I’ve ran 0w20, 5w20, and 5w30 with no difference in MPG. I might even run 0w40 in the future now that the mileage is over 100k.
I’ve ran 0w20, 5w20, and 5w30 with no difference in MPG. I might even run 0w40 in the future now that the mileage is over 100k.
I have ran 0w20 in my Caravan for close to 20k. So far no problems. I change it out once a year. Most of my driving is rural.