Pad/Rotor Replacement? Should I go Drilled/Slotted.

[The Critic]

I have been pretty happy with Genuine Nissan pads (not their value advantage pads) on the front for all of my customer's cars. I think their rear brake pads are incredibly overpriced and short-lived, but I usually stay with real OE pads for the front. The shim kit is also fairly expensive so I would not throw that away in case you want to return to OE pads later on.

 

[TiGeo]

It is absolute waste of money, except it can cost you life.

Do we have a count on how many lives have been lost due to running drilled rotors that failed?

 

[VolvoZ]

I’ve run drilled/slotted, and slotted rotors on at least two, maybe 3 cars. Result was grinding noises from the brakes after a good period of time (something like 15K miles), but well before the brakes were worn out. I think it was the strictly the slotting causing the issue. Overall: no real benefit derived, cost me more (time and money) to replace the noisy brakes early, learned to not buy them again.

 

[ls1mike]

I’ve heard that, too.

But I’ve yet to experience it.

With over 100,000 miles on drilled rotors on the Mercedes and over 50,000 on the wife’s XC, not even a hint of cracking.

Perhaps cracking is associated with drilled rotors because they used to be on very high performance cars, cars that experienced extremely high brake rotor temps?

This has been my experience as well. I have them on the Trans Am and Caprice as they were on sale when I got them and cheaper than the standard stuff. Both cars have Powerstop. When I do the truck I use only the GM stuff. I have to be close on the Malibu as it is nearing 66,000 miles.
Caprice breaks have 26,000 miles on them. Trans Am's have just over 35,000 miles on them.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Had the Project Mu rotors on for over two years and 180,000 miles. No issues.

 

[edyvw]

Do we have a count on how many lives have been lost due to running drilled rotors that failed?

1. I said drilled/slotted rotors. Meaning rotors that are both drilled and slotted.
2. If you have never seen cracked drilled rotor, you might venture out more.

 

[TiGeo]

1. I said drilled/slotted rotors. Meaning rotors that are both drilled and slotted.
2. If you have never seen cracked drilled rotor, you might venture out more.

1. Drilled seems to clearly be your concern so I noted it only.
2. I have seen spider cracks around holes on drilled rotors before - see post #38/Zimmerman notes on this.

I am still waiting for the death total on this one.

 

[edyvw]

1. Drilled seems to clearly be your concern so I noted it only.
2. I have seen spider cracks around holes on drilled rotors before - see post #38/Zimmerman notes on this.

I am still waiting for the death total on this one.

Who mentioned death toll? Also, do you think cracked rotor is safe?
Some drilled rotors are not my concern. For example Astro14 referenced MB rotors. MB rotors on his car as far as I remember have 3 lines of 3 drilled holes. That is different from what many manufacturers are selling, where drilles are all over the place, purely for aesthetic reasons minimizing brake surface and jeopardizing integrity.

 

[Elroy the Brave]

I installed Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors on a Chrysler minivan that has undersized brakes, and which was warping the rotors.

Very happy with the result. The drilled and slotted rotors have never warped.

Yes, they sometimes make a hum when braking, but it isn't that noticeable.

 

[TiGeo]

I'll say that yes, I get some noise during harder braking with my slotted set up on my VW, but the Atlas and Lexus with drilled/slotted Powerstops don't seem to be any noisier.

 

[TiGeo]

Who mentioned death toll? Also, do you think cracked rotor is safe?

Right here:

I put them in category of cold intake air systems. It is absolute waste of money, except it can cost you life.

 

[390pcode]

So, if you go to your average track you will see on normal cars bunch of oldtimers running good, proven regular rotors. They run really, really good pads and brake fluid. That is what matters if you have proven rotor.
When it comes to drilled rotors, be careful which brand you getting. Slotted too, but there is more room for flexibility as rotor is not obviously drilled.
Drilled and slotted rotors? I put them in category of cold intake air systems. It is absolute waste of money, except it can cost you life.
I would go regular rotor, but if you expecting more work on brakes get Hawk LTS or EBC Greenstuff. Apparently Stoptech Sport pads are really good bang for a buck, but no personal experience yet. I will try them though.

Absolutely correct. I track my Focus 10-12x/year at Laguna Seca and Infineon/Sonoma and run blanks with Hawk HPS+ pads and high temp fluid. Plenty of breaking power. I put Hawk pads on my daily driver RAM 1500 and instantly appreciated the increased breaking power with performance pads. In both cases, no slots or cross drill required.

 

[TiGeo]

I don't think anyone is saying you need slotted and/or drilled for the track, but they certainly don't hurt anything and the theory at least of giving more outlets for gas etc. generated during high-heat conditions is sound. Sure, high-performance pads and blank rotors are a tried and true combo.

 

[edyvw]

Absolutely correct. I track my Focus 10-12x/year at Laguna Seca and Infineon/Sonoma and run blanks with Hawk HPS+ pads and high temp fluid. Plenty of breaking power. I put Hawk pads on my daily driver RAM 1500 and instantly appreciated the increased breaking power with performance pads. In both cases, no slots or cross drill required.

How are those HPS+ at track?

 

[Asterix]

In my considerable experience, drilled and/or slotted rotors give far more consistent braking in all conditions and for the life of the pads and rotors. Wet, dry, hot, or cold, they work much more evenly. Every time I rent a car, I am disappointed by the brakes. (Note: I have never rented a Mercedes with factory drilled rotors.)

 

[TiGeo]

In my considerable experience, drilled and/or slotted rotors give far more consistent braking in all conditions and for the life of the pads and rotors. Wet, dry, hot, or cold, they work much more evenly. Every time I rent a car, I am disappointed by the brakes. (Note: I have never rented a Mercedes with factory drilled rotors.)

 

[edyvw]

View attachment 30089

LOL, I know that with that Liqui Moly dye, PowerStops rotors and probably K&N (at least) fluid you gained at 50hp. In your signature it says that you are running lot's of other crap on Sportwagen. That is exactly correct description of PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors.

 

[TiGeo]

LOL, I know that with that Liqui Moly dye, PowerStops rotors and probably K&N (at least) fluid you gained at 50hp. In your signature it says that you are running lot's of other crap on Sportwagen. That is exactly correct description of PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors.

At least I know you have a sense of humor now..hahaha

 

[TiGeo]

LOL, I know that with that Liqui Moly dye, PowerStops rotors and probably K&N (at least) fluid you gained at 50hp. In your signature it says that you are running lot's of other crap on Sportwagen. That is exactly correct description of PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors.

Eh, hp gain was from the Golf R turbo and tune, not much else tops that. +184 hp starting from 170...don't need much else! No Powerstops on the wagon, Stoptech slotted only (size up from stock up front) with EBC Redstuffs and Motul 600 fluid, ss lines, and some Audi brake ducts, a nice combo for a daily.

 

[Asterix]

Ha, @TiGeo. Yes, this is the ghost of Asterix, posting via Ouija board.

But really, I'm doubly doomed to die in a hail of hot cast iron shards because I drill my own rotors.