Out of his mind? 40W for best mileage?

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I want to know where all these bad 20wt oil analysis results are and all the engines prematurely wearing out are? Can't seem to find them.
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quote:

I want to know where all these bad 20wt oil analysis results are and all the engines prematurely wearing out are? Can't seem to find them.

He doesn't have them anymore. See, he used 5w20 in his 73 Gremlin and the engine blew so quickly he didn't have enough time to catch any oil on his test strip, hence the lack of UOA's.
 
In 5 to 7 more years we'll know if the 5w20 thing is good or bad.

I'll be the first one to admit I'm wrong.....if I am.

Let's see all the 5w20 fan's excuses when I'm right though. =)
 
Having run both SAE 40 and 15w40 HDEO in summers as well as winters, I can tell you with contention that the straight weight oil yielded poorer fuel economy and the engine dragged in winters, the 15w40 oil is a far better option, it also caused less cam wear than the straight 40 oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by darkdan:
In 5 to 7 more years we'll know if the 5w20 thing is good or bad.

I'll be the first one to admit I'm wrong.....if I am.

Let's see all the 5w20 fan's excuses when I'm right though. =)


I'll put my money on the millions upon millions of test miles run to determine that 5w20 oils are appropriate for certain applications.
 
Quote from Ugly3:
"...test miles run to determine that 5w20 oils are appropriate for certain applications."

Well, I'll have to agree that Xw-20 weights may not be the best choice in all the "dated" engine designs in all climates in all conditions of use. This is why there's such notice on the containers of oils of such weights as for it's limitted recommended use (ie: honda/ford...models..from '99-present...). You have considerations for load area's and clearences of the bearings, valvetrain arrangement and spring loads/cam lobe surface area, maximum sustained rotory/thrust/thermal loads, oil change interval and general climate conditions of the area (temperature having a baseline effect on viscosity at start-up and general cooling effectiveness in operation; dusty conditions leading to potential fine particle build-up in circulating oil that could become effective abrasive material should oil films become too thin...),etc. A case where one variable can have multiple and compounded effects. A weighing of variables, as ultimately everythings a compromise in the broader view of things.

Side note:
The more I come to understand about machine lubrication and of engines/machines in general, the more amazed and in awh I feel, while this mass of parts, fluids and gases operates as it was intended to do. Such a display of understanding, conception and vision from it's mere being.
 
ekpolk

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Member # 3733

posted 09 September, 2005 08:27
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Yes! Salvation is at hand! With fuel at over $3 per gallon, I've been looking upon my poor G35 with great disfavor. It only manages about 23 mpg highway (when I'm behaving myself...). You don't even want to know about around town mileage. Compare it to a Maxima, with a very similar version of the same engine -- this is what an aggressively geared final drive will do to you. But hey, silly me, all I need do is dump some acetone into my tank, and replace my GC with some 40 wt and I'll be getting 30 mpg for sure. This guy needs a good .

23MPG I would jump up and down and go crazy if I got 23MPG.
 
More tips from the site.
9. Use larger than standard tires. I usually drive on one size bigger tires. This is better in winter and normally yields better mileage all year around. Yokohama tires give great traction in winter.

13. Good gas can be obtained from Texaco stations or Chevron stations or Shell or from CostCo stations in your area. Other stations do not usually sell high mileage gasoline. Watch out for high alcohol content. You still should test the gas because there is no way to be sure except by careful and consistent MPG testing. You cannot mix gasolines and be sure of results. It takes about five tanks of ONE fuel to gain accurate results. We like Cenex gasoline in Wisconsin because it does NOT contain alcohol and MPG is a healthy 30-percent better
 
I gotta start thinking this guy is fraction challenged or at least never quite got the hang of decimal points.

Not sure about his tire quip - there may indeed be gains from larger OD tires (purely by taller gearing) - but if this guy had to compensate for speedo error he might be doing 75 in a 35!
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Guys, I run 40Wt. oils freq. and my milage is the same as with 0W30. I routinely get above 30MPG flogging the snot out of my Camry. I always drive it like a 16 year old kid dreaming of driveing in a World Rally event!!!! I can almost say that I drive agressively in terms of how I manage my engines power not how I drive in relation to other I must share the road with 100% of the time!

I am not buying the 5W20 saves gas routine. I am sure that it might if you drive like Morgan Freeman in the movie "Driveing Miss Daisy"! It might also help with a monster V8 that can do 60MPH while only turning 1300-1800 RPM's. I doubt it will do much though for an agressively driven 4 cylinder that does 3100 RPM's going down the HWY and is taken up to 6100 RPM's frequently.

Seeing how cranks no longer travel through the oil thanks to windage tray's from OEM, oil is controlled through the entire block, almost all friction surfaces are rollerized and micro polished and we have high tech coatings on everything. The bearing jornal arer getting smaller, the oil pressure has been reduced, the oil pumps are even designed from a standpoint of friction. How much effect can a ligter oil have on modern engines not driveing under ideal EPA fuel ecconomy course?

I would no sooner buy the 5W20 fuel ecconomy thing under real world conditions then I would 3 onces of acetone per 10 gallons of fuel for ecconomy! It is smoke and mirror and a dog at a pony show!
 
Did anyone notice what he wrote about resistor spark plugs, where the internal resistor had apparently failed, causing misfire? That part makes sense.
 
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