OTIS Dry Lube - Good for magazines?

I've never needed to lube magazines, but am always looking for a dry lube for the action. We shoot varmints in remote places and have to be completely self sufficient. If you shoot an AR 1000+ times/day, you learn quickly the problems with fouling from direct gas impingement. We carry brake cleaner to clean our the actions, but haven't found any lube that doesn't help collect more fouling. I've thought about trying graphite spray, but hate that the graphite is almost impossible to get out of clothing.

What is in the OTIS dry lube?
 
Never use any lube on mags either, but most of my shooting is running and gunning type so mags get changed many times and discarded ones dive into sand or gravel. I normally don't need to disassemble mags after picking them up to clean before loading again, just shaking and wiping with cloth (I tack it under belt on my back, I can wipe wet hands with it too without going into a bag, pocket etc). Oiled mags or dropped in mud would need disassembly to clean. Guns also need oiling only where needed, spraying is not right way of doing it.
 
Haven't tried the Otis Dry Lube but swear by Hornady One Shot. OneShot is just repackaged dry saw blade lube. Believe it or not, the repackaged Hornady is much cheaper than the original product.
 
I've never needed to lube magazines, but am always looking for a dry lube for the action. We shoot varmints in remote places and have to be completely self sufficient. If you shoot an AR 1000+ times/day, you learn quickly the problems with fouling from direct gas impingement. We carry brake cleaner to clean our the actions, but haven't found any lube that doesn't help collect more fouling. I've thought about trying graphite spray, but hate that the graphite is almost impossible to get out of clothing.

What is in the OTIS dry lube?
Not sure what's in it.

I only saw some brief reviews on Amazon about it for magazines, but nothing was really specific between rifle magazines and handgun magazines for use...
 
Guns also need oiling only where needed, spraying is not right way of doing it.
Correct, the field isn't a good place to disassemble the bolt and do it the right way. We do clean and lube the right way in the hotel at night, but once every 1000 rounds isn't enough, so we have to resort to less than optimal methods in the field.
 
Haven't tried the Otis Dry Lube but swear by Hornady One Shot. OneShot is just repackaged dry saw blade lube. Believe it or not, the repackaged Hornady is much cheaper than the original product.
I use One Shot in reloading case prep, tried it on inside mags but it made no difference. Very light oiling of mag springs makes diff in rust prevention.
 
I mean, I clean the carbon build up but that's it
That’s all I do. Most followers work just fine without lube - even polished stainless steel followers in 1911 magazines. I use nothing harder than a toothbrush when cleaning a magazine - I don’t want scratches compromising the parts and changing the friction characteristics.
 
That’s all I do. Most followers work just fine without lube - even polished stainless steel followers in 1911 magazines. I use nothing harder than a toothbrush when cleaning a magazine - I don’t want scratches compromising the parts and changing the friction characteristics.
Light Rem Oil for cleaning magazine springs / magazine internals - then wipe dry .
 
I will generally wipe down the insides of the magazines and followers whenever shooting suppressed. Most Western metal mags are made of a SS steel or aluminum or polymer and use SS springs (e.g. AR15, SIG, Glock, etc) so there's nothing to really rust out. However you want to clear it of debris (sand, dirt, powder residue, etc) that can cause feed issues.

That said, I did try the Otis Dry Lube. It doesn't completely dry out. It leaves a very thin film of oil. Very thin.

The Remington DriLube dries to the touch. Hornady One Shot also dries to the touch but leaves a bit more lubricating film and seems slicker when you have metal on metal contact.

I used DriLube on the insides of OTF knives and it seems to work really well. Dries completely so it doesn't attract lint or dust but has enough film lube to allow the knive to slide easily. Also seems to make the blade easier to clean.
 
I've never needed to lube magazines, but am always looking for a dry lube for the action. We shoot varmints in remote places and have to be completely self sufficient. If you shoot an AR 1000+ times/day, you learn quickly the problems with fouling from direct gas impingement. We carry brake cleaner to clean our the actions, but haven't found any lube that doesn't help collect more fouling. I've thought about trying graphite spray, but hate that the graphite is almost impossible to get out of clothing.

What is in the OTIS dry lube?
Don't use graphite, it's bad for the aluminum.

Just pour more oil on. Or if you feel the need, blast the bolt and upper with brake cleaner, wipe off he big chunks, then dump in more oil.

Spraying in oil is just fine.
1000 rounds is not really a lot unless you're doing the old and proven to be completely wrong, lightly lube the bolt and don't use too much because it attracts sand and dirt.
 
Not OTIS brand, but I did buy a can of WD-40 dry lube for my Taurus Tx22 magazines. They are the only magazines, in my experience, that require cleaning and lubricant of any type.
1000001640.webp
 
1000 rounds is not really a lot unless you're doing the old and proven to be completely wrong
I'm not sure what you mean, but trust me, you won't make it to 1000 rounds without cleaning the bolt. We shoot suppressed which compounds the fouling problem. Our standard procedure is to carry an extra clean bolt. When the first bolt starts getting "sticky" at about 600-700 rounds because of the fouling, put in a clean bolt and you'll get another 500 rounds. The entire upper and both bolts will need to be cleaned thoroughly that night in the hotel room. Spraying the action with brake cleaner followed with WD-40 will help you get to the 600-700 rounds. If you do nothing to remove the fouling, 500 rounds is about the limit of trouble-free cycling.

It makes me laugh when I see people online bragging about shooting thousands of rounds through a direct impingement AR without cleaning the action and say, "I had zero problems". That's complete nonsense and it didn't happen.
 
Try Breakfree CLP. It has a solvent component that is ideal for breaking down .22LR fouling.

I have a safe full of guns and I don't use the Breakfree CLP on any of the centerfire stuff, but I use it religiously on .22LR stuff with fantastic results. You can just spray the bolt down with it half way through a range session if needed and it will just keep going and going.
 
The Ar15 is most happy when wet.......the action. Do not lube the magazines. Clean then out with a toothbrush, wipe them off....if you are worried about the springs rusting, don't. You are worried about the wrong thing.

Regarding round count and malfunctions, the lucky number used to be about 900 or so. After that, you better have bottle of oil handy to dump into the two gas ports in the bolt carrier group.

The piston rings get gummed up. Might try Valvoline Restore and Protect?

Nickel boron bolt carrier groups can help.
 
Haven't tried the Otis Dry Lube but swear by Hornady One Shot. OneShot is just repackaged dry saw blade lube. Believe it or not, the repackaged Hornady is much cheaper than the original product.
Love Hornady One Shot dry lube . *It also has excellent corrosion protection !
 
Back
Top Bottom