Ordered a 1L ecoboost fiesta and stumbled on BITOG

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wobbly1

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Man, oil, who woul have thought this would take research??? So now I have things like Noack and HTHS and film strength further muddying the already murky waters of my mind. I am leaning towards a firm but not hard break in, using factory fill, then going with PUPP as my regular oil with 4k changes. Thoughts?

I'm a newbie and not very technical, but I do want to protect my investment, inhibit valve deposits, and feel comfortable with the path that I choose.

Thanks in advance.
 
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The owners manual calls for semi-synthetic 5w20 every 10,000 miles. If you want a full synthetic you can use Mobil 1 5w20 every 10,000 miles. Any less than that is unnecessary.
 
Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
MC is fine. I'm using Valvoline Conventional 5w20 in my ST.


+1

So long as the oil meets Ford's specification, you're fine. MC would be my first choice.
 
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Thanks. Full synthetic is not any better for a GTDI motor? I've been reading horror stories about intake valve deposits and the high temperatures and pressures in forced induction engines.
 
There are also horror stories of european direct injection engines using the requisite ACEA or manufacturer spec'd oils that still suffer from those same deposits (check their forums). Lots of theories out there but i think its a hit or miss, with the worst case scenario getting air time on forums. If oil were the answer to intake valve deposit issues, neither Toyota nor VAG would have needed to adopt dual injection technologies. It's a very complicated, ongoing situation that some manufacturers believe is tackled by stout oils at long oci and yet other's (like Hyundai/Kia) going with short oci and API SM/ ILSAC GF-4 oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: wobbly1
Thanks. Full synthetic is not any better for a GTDI motor? I've been reading horror stories about intake valve deposits and the high temperatures and pressures in forced induction engines.


Synthetic is always better. Been proven time and time again. Holds up better.
Will your car survive OK with lesser oils? Yes. Will you notice? Likely not.
Do you want less wear and deposits inside though? Yes you do. ... Yes, you do....
 
Originally Posted By: ZZBottom
Originally Posted By: wobbly1
Thanks. Full synthetic is not any better for a GTDI motor? I've been reading horror stories about intake valve deposits and the high temperatures and pressures in forced induction engines.


Synthetic is always better. Been proven time and time again. Holds up better.
Will your car survive OK with lesser oils? Yes. Will you notice? Likely not.
Do you want less wear and deposits inside though? Yes you do. ... Yes, you do....


No it hasn't. Read the GDI papers posted by me and others. The heavier syns specd fr euro DI may in fact be the problem.
 
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Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Simple-just use MC. It will survive just fine...


+1
and
welcome2.gif
 
Surprised Ford went with 5w-20, all their other Eco-Boost engines call for 5w30 now (originally were 5w-20). The consensus was because of fuel dilution in the oil. That said according to the internet every Eco-Boost engine is going to die a terrible death.

Except most do fine without catch cans and other add on items.

For 5k OCI's MC Syn Blend Oil is fine with MC filters. For 10k OCI's I'd use M1 or Castrol EP oils and a Synthetic oil filter like Fram Ultra Guard or Mobil 1 filters.
 
I would go with a 100% synthetic oil for this application. While the deposit build up is one reason the other reason is that the timing belt is bathed in the motor oil, so you want something that won't break down at all, and a motor oil that has a excellent ability to prevent acidity by neutralizing it. Clean oil is very critical in this application to protect the longevity of that belt. Change the oil every 6500 miles or so.
 
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Motorcraft and other Conoco oils have very advanced additive packs. These oils consist of various brands, but I think many products with these different brands overlap and are the same (MC~Kendall~P66~76~TropArctic) or similar (with MC and Kendall possibly being top brands). Semi-synth can't do the ultra long OCI's that some people here do, but it does have some advantages (holds and neutralizes combustion contaminants better than full synth). You're not planning 10K or 15K OCI's so the former shouldn't be relevant (wouldn't be wise attempting that anyways while under warranty).

One slight advantage of synth is you can get higher VI's, which, if you live places that often get under -10F, could have advantages. If your manual permits 0w20, you could consider such a full synth oil if you're expecting very harsh winter weather in the months ahead.

How does the Fiesta drive and how are you liking it? Is it Auto or Manual?
 
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
Surprised Ford went with 5w-20, all their other Eco-Boost engines call for 5w30 now (originally were 5w-20). The consensus was because of fuel dilution in the oil. That said according to the internet every Eco-Boost engine is going to die a terrible death.

Except most do fine without catch cans and other add on items.

For 5k OCI's MC Syn Blend Oil is fine with MC filters. For 10k OCI's I'd use M1 or Castrol EP oils and a Synthetic oil filter like Fram Ultra Guard or Mobil 1 filters.


+1 MC synthetic blend is an excellent oil. If doing a 5k mile oil change interval, then go ahead and use it with confidence. If you were going up to 10k miles, than perhaps a full synthetic oil would be better.

If you're still planning on your 4k mile oil change interval with PU, then I think you can save some cash using just about any other synthetic motor oil (QSUD, PP, etc) and you will never in the life of your vehicle notice a difference. Personally though, I think 4k miles is too low unless you have reason to believe the oil is getting beaten up. I'd extend it to 5-6k miles (as long as it's still acceptable with your warranty) with a quality oil like MC, QSUD, PP, M1, etc.
 
Synthetic oil is always better. It's all about how the oil is utilized. If an oil is not the solution to the problem, then no oil oil is going to fix the problem. If not, you would have excluded the word "may" in you example. That's just another way of saying you don't know.

Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
Originally Posted By: ZZBottom
Originally Posted By: wobbly1
Thanks. Full synthetic is not any better for a GTDI motor? I've been reading horror stories about intake valve deposits and the high temperatures and pressures in forced induction engines.


Synthetic is always better. Been proven time and time again. Holds up better.
Will your car survive OK with lesser oils? Yes. Will you notice? Likely not.
Do you want less wear and deposits inside though? Yes you do. ... Yes, you do....


No it hasn't. Read the GDI papers posted by me and others. The heavier syns specd fr euro DI may in fact be the problem.
 
No, its the proper way to say there is research pointing in the direction I indicated. Making a blanket statement that synthetics are always better is a way of saying YOU don't know.

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Synthetic oil is always better. It's all about how the oil is utilized. If an oil is not the solution to the problem, then no oil oil is going to fix the problem. If not, you would have excluded the word "may" in you example. That's just another way of saying you don't know.

Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
Originally Posted By: ZZBottom
Originally Posted By: wobbly1
Thanks. Full synthetic is not any better for a GTDI motor? I've been reading horror stories about intake valve deposits and the high temperatures and pressures in forced induction engines.




Synthetic is always better. Been proven time and time again. Holds up better.
Will your car survive OK with lesser oils? Yes. Will you notice? Likely not.
Do you want less wear and deposits inside though? Yes you do. ... Yes, you do....


No it hasn't. Read the GDI papers posted by me and others. The heavier syns specd fr euro DI may in fact be the problem.
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Synthetic oil is always better. It's all about how the oil is utilized. If an oil is not the solution to the problem, then no oil oil is going to fix the problem. If not, you would have excluded the word "may" in you example. That's just another way of saying you don't know.

Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
Originally Posted By: ZZBottom
Originally Posted By: wobbly1
Thanks. Full synthetic is not any better for a GTDI motor? I've been reading horror stories about intake valve deposits and the high temperatures and pressures in forced induction engines.


Synthetic is always better. Been proven time and time again. Holds up better.
Will your car survive OK with lesser oils? Yes. Will you notice? Likely not.
Do you want less wear and deposits inside though? Yes you do. ... Yes, you do....


No it hasn't. Read the GDI papers posted by me and others. The heavier syns specd fr euro DI may in fact be the problem.
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Synthetic oil is always better. It's all about how the oil is utilized. If an oil is not the solution to the problem, then no oil oil is going to fix the problem. If not, you would have excluded the word "may" in you example. That's just another way of saying you don't know.

Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
Originally Posted By: ZZBottom
Originally Posted By: wobbly1
Thanks. Full synthetic is not any better for a GTDI motor? I've been reading horror stories about intake valve deposits and the high temperatures and pressures in forced induction engines.


Synthetic is always better. Been proven time and time again. Holds up better.
Will your car survive OK with lesser oils? Yes. Will you notice? Likely not.
Do you want less wear and deposits inside though? Yes you do. ... Yes, you do....


No it hasn't. Read the GDI papers posted by me and others. The heavier syns specd fr euro DI may in fact be the problem.
 
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