One man vacuum brake bleeder kit not working properly?

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Hi guys.

So I bought one of those generic vacuum brake bleeder kits in the thoughts that it would make bleeding brakes more convenient by not having to have another person pump the brakes. It's basically a vacuum pump that sucks brake fluid from the bleeder screw. I'm following the instructions exactly, which is:

1. Connect hose to bleeder screw
2. Pump the pump until there is a nice vacuum and make sure there's no leaks.
3. Loosen the bleeder screw and the vacuum action should suck brake fluid from the bleeder, down the connected tubing, and into a reservoir.

However the problem is that as soon as I loosen the screw, it seems that air just gets sucked in from the screw threads instead of the brake fluid being pulled from the bleeder. Am I doing this wrong? Any tips from anyone that has been able to use one of these kits successfully?
 
I've used these kits for years with good success. I usually put some grease around the threads of the bleeder valve to help prevent air from getting in.
 
I've only used the type connected to an air compressor which works very well and generates much more vacuum. It takes very little opening of the bleed valve - like 1/4 turn .Are you opening too far? Grease as mentioned also helps.

BTW - typical torque is about 7 lb/ft for a bleeder. Why do gorillas over tighten?

And why do they not replace the cap?
 
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Did you buy one of these?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p....ds&dclid=CO7T8a--9t0CFUHIwAodaP4OEA

I bought cheap Pittsburgh from HF and it worked once, Never again.

https://www.ebay.com/i/323459040483?chn=ps

I had a Mityvac for 25 yrs but it broke due to loaning it out so often so I bought this cheap Pittsburgh.
I will buy another Mityvac. And since I already have all of the fittings & reservoir, I will just buy the pump.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mityvac-Selectline-Vacuum-Pump-with-Gauge-MITMV8010/306763775?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CHC%7CD25T%7C25-31_GARAGE%2FAUTOMOTIVE%7CNA%7CNA%7CRLSA%7c71700000037147753%7c58700004141485307%7c92700034088528780&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-J3H0L723QIVk7fACh0qCAu4EAQYAiABEgK6VPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNyf162_9t0CFY3BwAodKnsCYg
 
Instead of fooling with the vacuum pump, replace the bleeders with speed bleeders.

They have a check valve, to prevent air from going back in when you're bleeding the brakes.

https://amzn.to/2y6LgHC

Not sure why OEM's dont all use these as standard equipment. Ridiculously simple little things, and they make swapping brake fluid so much easier.
 
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Originally Posted by wtd
I've used these kits for years with good success. I usually put some grease around the threads of the bleeder valve to help prevent air from getting in.

I will not use grease necause of how petroleum can can contamonate and ruin brake stuff. I wrap threads with teflon tape. No tape on the first thread so no thin shards of tape get in the system,

Rod.
 
Do the vacuum pumps actually make the job easier than the traditional hose-and-bottle method? I have always used a hose and bottle for bleeding and flushing (like this: https://youtu.be/n1NvtUwfRJc). That is the method shown in my service manual and it works great.
 
Unfortunately, speed bleeders aren't made for all vehicles. Here in the North East with all of our cold winters & salt, there may be an issue with speed bleeders sticking in the open position? Maybe?

If I keep a vehicle long enough, I'll change out the bleeder screws several times as they corrode. Usually it's the rears that need replacement more often than the front.
 
I used to use my Mityvac but for some reason, after working just fine for a few jobs, lately all they do is pull air around the threads instead of fluid out of the caliper. Been just letting gravity do the job instead.
 
Take the bleeder screw out, and make sure the cross passage is not clogged. Vacuum bleeding works great, but like mentioned before, one that is powered by compressed air creates a lot more flow, and makes the job fast, and easy.
 
Mine does and it was made from common house hold items.
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I use heavy 3M silicone paste around the bleeder/caliper interface to prevent air from entering the system when pedal is released. Russell Speed Bleeders sinc 08.
 
Thanks for the replies. Not sure how I feel about teflon tape as those pieces can gunk things up if it gets inside past the screw. I like the grease idea, ideally use something as inert as possible (like silicon as mentioned) if it gets inside. Or even the high temp brake grease?
 
What tool do you have ? I thought the type that you pump are connected to the master cylinder to pressure bleed while the vacuum type (no pumping action) are only connected at the caliper.

As far as putting teflon tape on the screws, just put a minimal amount and don't go beyond more then 2-3 threads. Definitely stay away from the 'port' hole.
 
i used the motive kit for years + still do, just need the correct cap for said fluid reservoir. got lucky on girlfriends 13 malibu as my cap used in 2001 VW jetta + 2001 TT fit. caps with hose + connector are about $20 ea, e-bay is your friend. my at least 10 year old plastic hose broke but they are easy to replace!
 
Originally Posted by user52165
This one:

What size is your air compressor ? What PSI are you set at ?
 
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