OK Experts: Here's what I'm doing for my car (additive-wise), any changes necessary?

[Ken2]

I just used Auto-Rx in the transmission of my 115,000 mile Volvo, and it does shift more smoothly after the flush & refill.

I'd suggest an Auto-Rx cleaning of your transmission followed by a complete (14 quart?) flush and refill with Toyota T-IV ATF. Alternately, you could use non-licensed Amsoil ATF or synthetic Dexron-III ATF plus Lubegard black-bottle HFM supplement, again a non-licensed concoction.


Ken

 

[427Z06]

Make sure you wash and wax your car so it't looks nice, clean and shiny on the outside too.

 

[Threxx]

Oh yeah, forgot about the brake fluid flush. I guess I'd do that about once every 60k miles. I just haven't really thought about it because I had to have it done when I got my goodridge stainless steel brake lines (aftermarket) installed.

Changing the oil after running air intake additives seems like a pretty good idea! Thanks. I still wonder how dirt from the intake tract would get in the oil without something else being wrong with the motor, but I'm sure there's some way.

Yes... I know about the washing/waxing part. Don't need any tips on that one (check the link in my first post)

 

[dropitby]

I have a 2003 Toyota Camry and had the old ATF pumped out and refilled with AMSOIL ATF its synthetic so it should run cooler.If you have a fuel filter I would change it too.

 

[427Z06]

Power Steering Fluid?

 

[Threxx]

So should I add auto RX to the PS fluid at certain intervals, or would it be just as safe and probably more cost effective to only treat if I'm having problems?

BTW... the fuel filter in this vehicle is not intended to be serviced. They're some odd design that's supposed to last some crazy amount of milage. If it does get fouled up then it can be changed, but it requires removing the back seat, removing the fuel pump, and pulling the filter out of it.

 

[02supercrew]

What does your owners manual say you should be running octane wise?

If it says to use 87, there is no benefit from running 93 with the exception of better mpg from a lighter wallet.

Now, if your vehicle has a tuner or chip, that's another story.

 

[unDummy]

Flush the coolant every 30k miles. Antifreeze does not last that long. Don't forget the thermostat every now and then(now is good).
Include the ATF change now and every 30k or less. If there is a drainplug, you could do a partial change at every oil change. I prefer partial changes.
If using OEM ATF, a bottle of lubegard RED can be added or any of the competitors equivalent products to maintain a clean transmission.

Oil/filter change every 7.5k miles is good.

Use a quality synthetic in the rearend. Don't forget the PS system and yearly brake fluid flushes/bleeds.

 

[boxcartommie22]

threxxx, can you tell me what to get from bg to use the system in duction cleaner via the pvc valve..and tell me how you did it via the pvc
thanks

 

[Threxx]

Well I've learned alot from this forum. But sometimes I still wonder if what I'm doing might be a little too much or not enough.

Here's my current regime:
Car: 1999 Lexus GS400, 4.0L DOHC 32V 1UZFE V8, 5-speed automatic trans, currently at 62k miles. (bought it with 30k)

Oil: Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w30 w/ OEM Toyota Denso (currently the made in Japan variety) filter. Both changed together every 7500 miles.
Oil Additive: Auto-RX every 50k miles (yes, that means I've only done it once so far, but my plan is to continue every 50k miles)

Fuel: I always used Amoco/BP or Chevron 93 Octane. Add Chevron Techron (the system cleaner, not the injector cleaner, which I believe it just less concentrated?) every 10k miles. BG 44K in the tank, BG induction system cleaner (fed in through the PCV valve), and BG intake cleaner (just spray straight in the air intake) every 30k miles.

Air filter: just changed as necessary... I check it out every so often to see how dirty it is, sometimes knock the dirt out of it and let it run a bit longer

Transmission fluid: full flush using OEM Toyota type IV fluid with no additives. I've considered using auto RX, but I'm kind of scared to try this until I start having problems.

Coolant: flush and change every 60k miles

Plugs: change every 60k miles

Anything else I should be adding to my maintenance regime?

Is there any chance that the chemicals I'm using now might be causing more harm than good?

Thanks!

 

[Dan4510]

I would suggest a couple of things.

1. If the transmission does not have a cooler add one. It will give the transmission a much longer life. Cooler=better.

2. Clean the intake close to when you are going to change oil. That way anything that hits the oil is out of there instead of grinding among metal parts.

I think you might be going a little overboard with the intake cleaning. Remember, anything you break loose goes straight to valves and piston rings. But that's just my opinion.

3. Only other thing I would consider is a brake fluid flush and replace, but dont know when lexus recommends it.

Otherwise sounds like sound basic maintence program.

Dan

 

[Threxx]

02supercrew: yes, it requires premium as per the owner's manual.

Undummy, I thought modern day long-life coolants would last between 60 and 110k miles?

Boxcartommie, the feeder I use came from www.carfood.net , which is where I got the ISC from anyway. The feeder didn't add much to the cost at all, nor should it have. It is basically a cheap rubbermade IV-looking container, with a long clear thin hose coming out of it, and leading to a plastic check valve. You turn a knob to adjust the flow of the liquid. The kbob just plugs straight in to where your PCV valve is opened up... it's pretty universal.

 

[wn1998]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dan4510:
Only other thing I would consider is a brake fluid flush and replace, but dont know when lexus recommends it.

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I have made this point before and will make it again. I think this brake flush is completely unneccesary. I think that brake fluid does not need to be changed at all. I think that most will have a brake fluid leak and need to replace the brake lines before the fluid will go bad. I would just check your brake fluid level every month and add if neccesary go spend your money and time with your family.

 

[labman]

Glad top see some more skepticism on brake fluid change. I wouldn't skip anything called for in the owners manual while still under warranty. It may even be needed with Bosch ABS. Otherwise, forget it. The less you mess with the brake fluid, the fewer problems you create. I don't even top up to correct for pad wear. I do keep a close eye on things.

 

[Motorbike]

I am very pro bleeding the brakes bi-annually on a keeper car that has DOT 4 in the system . If using DOT 3 " I don't " annually is best .

Actually I bleed our cars one year after date of purchase then install DOT 4 .

Just place a vacuum hose on the bleeder valve and let someone on the brake pedal push it in a cup on a 1 year old car to view the why's of it .

I'm not speaking of cars that will be traded every 5-6 years though

 

[427Z06]

quote:

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Originally posted by Threxx:
So should I add auto RX to the PS fluid at certain intervals, or would it be just as safe and probably more cost effective to only treat if I'm having problems?

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I'm not so sure it's necessary, but since you've taken such good care of everything else, I just thought you might want to do this too. Maybe you could remove the lower part of the reservoir hose once a year and refill the reservoir with the appropriate fluid. Maybe others will have some better ideas.

By the way, you selling this car anytime soon?

 

[obbop]

New wiper blades yearly!!!!!!!!!!