Oilguard Transmission Bypass Filter

[Flywest]

I bought a oilguard auto trasmission bypass filter kit for my Year 2004 7.3 psd (that took 6 months to get here on a slow boat from china!). I already have a deep transmission pan from BD power, with a temp sensor and guage. I also have a auxilliary oil cooler plumbed such that the trans fluid still goes thru the bottom of the radiator - thru the standard small oil cooler - then the auxuilliary oil cooler and back to the transmission.

It stays cool - even towing in very high ambient temps, never goes above 70C. It seems to take a long while to warm up now in winter so I never hurry her - I just ease along wquietly until things get up to working temps.

If I am to hook up this bypass filter as per the destructions sheet it goes up front somewheres near the radiator on a support panel and hoooks in to the return line from the auxilliary clooler to the transmission?..

Is that OK to do?

It seems as tho - when cold it is slow to change gears - albeit I am not hurrying it, it alsmost has a surging feel to it while cold for a few minutes...

I am not going to damage anything by installing the filter or make the cold gear change surging any worse?

Lets get this right you can barely detect any surging such that sometimes I wonder if I am imagining it!

That said - the truck has almost 70,000 miles on it & when I installed the deep transmission pan, I noticed a LOT of clutch poarticlein the fluid and small metal shavings etc on the magnet in the pan. I installed a new pan filter and changed all the oil which seemed to make a big difference in how the auto trans performed. I also sent off a used trans oil sample at that time to Oilguard and got back an "abnormal" result with high wear metals and clutch particulate matter levels, etc
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a70/troutylow/OilguardScreenshot.jpg?t=1183107686
Perhaps you can see the high wear metal readings here!

I see threads 10 pages long here discussing the merits of various screw on bypass and full flow filter kits and admit to being confused! As best I can tell - being installed in the oil line mine nmust be a full flow transmision oil filter because theres no way for the oil to bypass that I can see (No I didn't get a pipe & banjoe ends thingy to connect between the oil inlet and outlets on the side of the transmission in the kit to allow trans oil to bypass!)

So to the question - is it OK to install this kit given what alterations I already have made (deep Pan, and aux oil cooler) into the full flow line?....or will I be restricting the flow of oil further and lead to more surging when cold maybe or wear it out internally faster!

I am just looking for some guidance please - I'm really confused about this from everything I've read so far!

Cheers!

 

[LargeCarManX2]

If it just filters part of the return ATF, I can't see where you will have any problems. If it is a full-flow ATF filter and does not have a bypass valve....I would be concerned.

I don't think with a large pan and extra cooler your restricting anything. If you look at the Magnafine filter for ATF it has a bypass if the filter gets clogged.

I would send back the Motorguard on a slower boat to China and use the in-line Magnafine

 

[LargeCarManX2]

Oh, and the Magnafine is made in Australia.

What type of ATF are you using and what mileage was on the oil when you did the UOA?

 

[unDummy]

The oilguard must be mounted parallel to the pressure/return ATF lines. Parallel won't restrict.
Any full flow filter, with a bypass, can be mounted in series anywhere along the ATF lines. Full flows will bypass if they become overly restrictive.

I would definitely consider one or both along with your other mods. You have temp in control. With a filter(full or bypass), you'll have 'CLEAN' ATF.

Post the ATF UOA in the ATF UOA section with details.

Use a full synthetic ATF to improve cool weather performance.

 

[Flywest]

Sorry people,
I should have been more specific.
This is the kit I bought!

It's called an in line transmission Filter

Quote:

---

BD’s Transmission filter kit protects your Ford, Dodge and GM heavy duty Automatic Transmissions against contamination in the transmission fluid • Eliminates contamination from prior transmission failure or excessive wear and secondary damage to other parts once a part failure has occurred • Extends Transmission life by minimizing wear by preventing sticking and scoring of sensitive shift control valves. • Added oil capacity adds cooling capacity • An off the shelf oil filter has a bypass valve and prevents formation of sludge that blocks passages • Designed for easy installation the kits come complete with all required hardware with large hoses and fittings that result in high GPM levels even under extreme use.

---

So I guess what I'm asking is - if this unit has a bypass restrictor in it already - is it OK to install it inline as a full flow filter the way the destruction sheet shows, or do I need that other doublle ended banjoe tube thing that goes on the side of the transmission where the lines feed in and out and itself has a restrictor in it allowing fluid to bypass in a restriction situation?..

Cheers

 

[Gary Allan]

I'm lost in this thread ..but put a gauge on the upstream side of the filter. If you see anything above a few psi ...you don't have a viable installation. With no bypass mechanism ..I would think that an Oil Guard element would be too dense, even for ATF.

I prefer just putting the bypass filter across the cooler circuit. It's a "dense short circuit". I then have a full flow filter to cover larger particles that the bypass will not see (eventually).

 

[RalphPWood]

Please don't call an Oilguard a Motor Guard. I ship Priority Mail from Sanger, TX not China.

My old 84 Ford diesel with the C-6 tranny happens to have a Frantz oil cleaner on the ATF. The TP turns a grey color with no large wear particles so I know the tranny is in very good condition. I change the TP every few years whether it needs it or not. :0)

 

[Flywest]

Hey Ralph, It's OK, I'm sure largeCarManX2 meant Oil Guard not Motor Guard in his "ship it back" comment (I picked that up when I read it). As it happens Sumpy,(a near neighbour downunder and member here) & I have been talking about your motorguard filters (he has one) and if I am unable to get a hold of a Frantz (which it seems will be the case thru the local guy), then my next port of call was going to be you for a motorguard option!

I was hoping to catch up with sumpy and have a look at how he installs his motorguard into his landcruiser because I wish to do the same - but may have to impose on his machining skills to make me up a sump banjoe bolt etc and method to run the oil back to the sump.

I'm aware of your product and have been researching it on your website, thanks to sumpy whps been advising me by PM's so I know the difference between Oilguard and Motorguard and you were likely to be hearing from me in a few days anyway!

All is good in the hood!

Cheers!

 

[bmwtechguy]

If possible, I would put the filter in the cooler line flow where the fluid exits the transmission to the cooler(s). This will keep any more debris from lodging in either of the coolers, and protect them from getting stopped up if the trans or TC sheds any larger amounts of debris at some point. Also the hotter fluid will filter more easily than a colder, more viscous fluid. I learned this from Gary Allan in a previous thread, and it makes sense to me. I would also second the synthetic fluid recommendation. You have the extra cooling already, soon to have excellent filtration, so why not get a really good fluid and then never need to change again, at least any time soon!

 

[LargeCarManX2]

Sorry Ralph, I did not catch my fooopa. I have great respect for you and your products and knowledge.

I apologize and thank Flywest for bringing this to my attention.

LCM