Oil Recommendation for an Old Datson

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Originally Posted by meep
didn't it call for 10-40 new? we had a 77 B210 and I'm pretty sure it called for 10-30.


Like I said earlier, I am not sure how the engine compares to the L24.

If it's similar, I'm 99% certain 10w30 to 20w50 was allowed and this is per a 1971 240z service manual.

* I looked.. 5w20 was allowed too. It gives brands/ oil names as well as viscosity in the recommended lube section..
 
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Originally Posted by SoCal_FiST
I recently picked up a 1971 Datsun 510 that has an L20B swapped in that has a hotter cam and has been bored over. I am looking for a good oil recommendation for it. It currently has 200 or so miles on it with the break in oil, but am not sure what to run when I drain the break in oil.

Thanks for the recommendations.


You live in So Cal so no need to worry about freezing or even cold temps in general. Been bored and has hotter cam. Need to step up the oil. Heat is your enemy if you do any desert driving (?) like to Vegas, Barstow, etc. So I'd be all over a good HDEO with at least 1,000 PPM of ZDDP. Something in the 15w40 range and watch that it's not the new CK4 version, or if it is make sure it's at 1K ZDDP and not the "All Fleet" stuff.

Might go and see if there is a dealer for Mystic JT8 nearby ...

Nice project. Good little canyon carvers. Will give many cars a run for their money. BIL has a buddy with one with a full cage and an LS in it
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted by BrocLuno


You live in So Cal so no need to worry about freezing or even cold temps in general. Been bored and has hotter cam. Need to step up the oil. Heat is your enemy if you do any desert driving (?) like to Vegas, Barstow, etc. So I'd be all over a good HDEO with at least 1,000 PPM of ZDDP. Something in the 15w40 range and watch that it's not the new CK4 version, or if it is make sure it's at 1K ZDDP and not the "All Fleet" stuff.

Might go and see if there is a dealer for Mystic JT8 nearby ...

Nice project. Good little canyon carvers. Will give many cars a run for their money. BIL has a buddy with one with a full cage and an LS in it
laugh.gif



How do you find the ZDDP content in the oil? I was growing shells site and didn't find anything
 
I used Castrol 20w50 in my '71 1600 pick up. My first OHC. I attribute the oil for minimizing the damage when #4 detonated through during an overheat, I replaced the rod and piston from a trashed 1.6 and re-used the rod bearings. They were fine as was the journal. The PU was rated for 1/2 ton and the springs and the short wheel base made for a rough ride. Drum brakes, very under sized.
 
I ended up getting 5 quarts of oreilley auto parts brand 15w40 cj-4 and 5 quarts of shell T5 15w40 ck-4 but checked it was a bit over 1200ppm of zinc and a couple wix filters.

Thanks all for the help
 
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If it was me, I'd run a 10w30 all the way to up a 20W-50. 15w40 would be the sweet spot, much more ZDDP in it. However, most Japanese motors will run happily on modern SN-rated oil. I think Nissan used rocker followers with mechanical lash adjustment, like a Honda. I'd be a bit more concerned with a Toyota but even modern ones with shim-over/under-bucket lifters are doing fine on SN-rated oil.
 
Would there be any benefit to addding a bottle of stp oil treatment with the 15w40 to maximize the ZDDP content for a few hundred miles? It still has another 300-500 break in miles to do
 
Not - there is no benefit to running a break-in oil. They are almost all deficient in some additive. They are almost all just mineral oil based.

Use good oil from the get go. Change the oil early (once) to get the metallics out. Add a magnetic drain plug. That's it.

Run your chosen oil until the moon blows up or the sun goes out. You will get no advantage from STP or other additive unless you have a specific problem to address like a lifter tick, or a stuck ring, etc.
 
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Would love to see pics of this little gem, they disappeared years ago up here.

When I was like 5 years old I took a final drive with our neighbor in his yellow 510 to the junk yard. I had to hold my feet up, as there was no floor under them!
 
Originally Posted by BrocLuno
Not - there is no benefit to running a break-in oil. They are almost all deficient in some additive. They are almost all just mineral oil based.

Certainly, but I'm talking about a very short OCI, not even way longer than what would take to seat rings, maybe a couple hundred miles beyond that, and then only if it really concerns a person. I didn't run a dedicated break in lube for breaking in my F-150's 300 after the rebuild.
 
Originally Posted by SoCal_FiST
Originally Posted by addyguy
Would love to see pics of this little gem, they disappeared years ago up here.

When I was like 5 years old I took a final drive with our neighbor in his yellow 510 to the junk yard. I had to hold my feet up, as there was no floor under them!


https://imgur.com/a/sSh3ZxA

https://imgur.com/a/DUaOgw8


Very nice. So easy to work on! Mine rusted away a long time ago, but it was fun while it lasted.
 
This one is really done well but a big $ budget.

https://search.aol.com/aol/video;_ylt=A0geK.Sh7Jtbgb8AvtJpCWVH;_ylu=X3oDMTByMHVzM20zBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMzBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzYw--?q=1974+datsun+510&v_t=comsearch#id=7&vid=6d19cde03063c7b922500e182aa19c9f&action=view
 
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