Oil Recommendation" 94 VW 200K+

[Kaie]

HELLO!!! I have been doing some research on oils for my car, but id like to hear what other people have to say/suggest.

So i have a '94 VW Jetta III GL 2.0 manual with 202k on the odometer, but it has a twice rebuilt title. So theres no telling what is really on it.

The manufacture recommendation is 10w40 or 20w50.
I have been using Shell 20w50 w/ Mobil1 filter, because it does have some oil burn off with thinner oils. Even some w/ 20w50. Not as much though.
I've been changing the oil between 2500 & 3000 miles. Its generally a quart or so low.
I haven't sent in an oil test yet. Probably will this next change.
I don't use any oil additives, though i have though about it. Especially if i end up going with a lower viscosity.

I live in Western Washington, just outside Seattle. Pretty moderate temps.
Summers are: average of 70-80, But we've been known to have 2-7 days a summer that its 90-100F.
Autumn/Winters: are usually high 30s to Low 50s, but we've been known to have a week of 15 degrees.
Springs are: usually Low 50s to High 60s. Some years its been in the 80's in the spring. But not often.

This car is currently my family's only car.
It does the around town grocery getting AND the freeway trips to work. It probably averages 80 miles a day.

The car sees all types of driving.
Some times i might be in a hurry and drive faster on the freeway. But i usually just drive average to speedy. I don't however drive it like a go-kart and floor it everywhere.
The lady drives it like a soccer mom.
I always let the car warm up before i drive it. Can't say the same for my girlfriend though.

This car really doesn't have many issues ESP for a VW with 200k+ on it [People love to talk [censored] about VW]. It does have a weird fuel issue when idle were the injectors are loading up with fuel so i have to hit the gas to burn it off before i release the clutch, or else it sputters trying to burn off the fuel... I THINK. My brother and i are still looking into what this is.

So, as far as my preferences... I'm using the shell because thats really my only selection of 20w50 Conventional at local stores. I can get Kendall 20w50 Conventional if i want to go to a local Euro repair shop [they say they use it in all vehicles]. I have no issues ordering online, though i'm due for an oil change which is what i was going to do tomorrow.

Anyways, i would LOVE to use a synthetic as the higher end oils i can get locally carry my weight in synthetic [Royal Purple, Lucas, Redline]. Lucas does have a 20w50 Conventional, just no one carries Lucas Conventional around here. I've read plenty about synthetic not being a good idea for higher mileage motors. So... i'm prepared for that to not even be an option.

I'm interested in the single weight[?] oils people are posting about [0w40]. But, i guess i don't understand the advantage.

Thanks for all your thoughts in advance. Also if i forgot anything or you want to know something specific let me know.

 

[addyguy]

With your temps, you could most likely run a 15w40 HDEO year-round. If you want synthetic, go with a 5W-40 HDEO. They are just less expensive than the oils you have suggested for an engine that needs a fair bit of top-off.

Shell's 'Rotella' oils, especially the 'T6' 5W-40, are an excellent value in HDEO oils.

 

[Kaie]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
With your temps, you could most likely run a 15w40 HDEO year-round. If you want synthetic, go with a 5W-40 HDEO. They are just less expensive than the oils you have suggested for an engine that needs a fair bit of top-off.

Shell's 'Rotella' oils, especially the 'T6' 5W-40, are an excellent value in HDEO oils.


Thanks... i never thought to use oils directed at diesel engines. I have however seen Rotella suggested for other high mileage cars. I just never bothered to see what it was.

Local O'reilly's carries Rotella 15w40. How do you feel about adding some Lucas Oil Stabalizer to that?

 

[Nickdfresh]

I always thought the VWs of this era seemed to prefer 15w40 and I believe that's what the local dealer used in the warmer months. I'd personally use 15w40 from spring to fall and use 10w30 high mileage in winter...

I wouldn't add Lucas Oil Stabilizer to the lawn mower of my worst enemy...

 

[addyguy]

You don't need to bother with the Lucas Oil Stabilizer at all.

If you wat to try and reduce consumption, the first step might be to add some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) to the oil for an OCI, to see if it 'frees up the rings'....easy way to see if you can reduce consuption.

Do a change with 1 quart of MMO and the rest Rotella 15w40, and do 1 or two changes like this. See if it changes anything.

 

[Kaie]

Good info thanks. I've been using MMO in my fuel almost done with the first bottle. Might be placebo, but i really feel like its idling smoother.

I never added it to the oil because i didnt want to thin it out. I'll try it out though.

Should i stick with my 3k oil/filter changes?

 

[Audi Junkie]

Try 15w40 or 10w-40 High Miles.

 

[mechtech2]

That and other German cars of the era [and esp in the past] always had thick oil recommendations. Those charts in the manuals always show a bias towards thick oils.
Maybe skinny bearings?
I always used too thick oils in the past.
A dino HDEO 15-40 would work well for you right now at this stage of life.

 

[Kaie]

UPDATE:

I've been using Shell Rotella T 15w40 for 2 OCIs so far. I LOVE it!

The idle is smoother.
It totally runs cooler.
The engine is quieter.
It burns WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY less oil. Pretty much nill. Even compared to the 20w50 i was using before. It's absolutely INSANE.

The oil still comes out black at 3k OCI. But to be fair. The car has tons of history with [censored] oils. And one the first OCI I used a Fram =[.

I don't have an extreme burning desire to make any changes. But I've been seeing some people talking about it being OK to switch higher mileage vehicles to synth oils if you do some prepping. By prepping I mean using things like MMO and/or ARX for a few OCIs to clean up the rings and seals.

So.. the question is. If I did do some of this that Rotella T6 would be just as good of an oil for this guy? Basically my point or reasoning would be is to extend my OCIs a few more thousand miles. Or maybe a 0w40?

I've also been contemplating getting the engine rebuilt; New cam/cam bearings, rings, seals, etc. Possibly even do a 16v conversion. Essentially turning my ABA engine into the Euro ABF [for the VW enthusiasts =D]. If i did that i would def want to switch to synth. What would be good then?

 

[Kaie]

Still curious about using synth HDEO at 200+k to extend ocis

 

[Kaie]

So in a previous thread i had asked for suggestions on oil for my 94 2.0 Jetta.

Most replies consisted of 15w40. I have since switched to Rotella T 15w40. My car is doing so much better now.

Here is a quote of mine from an update post on that thread.

I've been using Shell Rotella T 15w40 for 2 OCIs so far. I LOVE it!

The idle is smoother.
It totally runs cooler.
The engine is quieter.
It burns WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY less oil. Pretty much nill. Even compared to the 20w50 i was using before. It's absolutely INSANE.

The oil still comes out black at 3k OCI. But to be fair. The car has tons of history with [censored] oils. And one the first OCI I used a Fram =[.

However i drive A LOT. Its not always easy for me to schedule time to go to my brothers shop and change my oil as it is 50 miles from my house. So, i sort of want to try Rotella T6 5w40. Now i've read all the warnings and the donts about switching an older vehicle; particularly with lots of miles, over to synthetic. Though ive come to a conclusion these cars just really love HDEO oils. So maybe it would be safe? Ive started using MMO in the oil to help loosen the rings and work its magic on my seals.

Ive also read quite a bit about HDEO oil doing a really good job of cleaning up the grime, gunk, and deposits. in an engine. Since i've done 2 OCIs with this HDEO. I'd assume its cleaned most if not all of the grime, gunk, and deposits off. Being one of the points i've made about Switching to this oil is the extreme lack of oil burn off and one of the concerns about switching to synthetic oils is the issue of it cleaning up and just creating more burn off.

My theory is i should be safe... Maybe do 1 or 2 more OCIs with this Rotella T and MMO ensure its done a good job on my rings and seals. Then switch to Rotella T6.

I've read so many good things about the T6. I'd love to try it. Though for obvious reasons i wouldn't want to create a bunch of issues for myself or the car.

What do you guys think? Perhaps theres another Synthetic HDEO out there that would work even better than the Rotella T6? I know its cheap. But id much rather spend 80-100 bones on an oil change for the BEST stuff for a long OCI over cheap or so so oil doing man OCIs...


Discuss.


EDIT: Spelling

 

[Bill in Utah]

I've moved this thread from Passenger Car gas powered to HDEO since the OP feels that it should be here.

Bill

 

[rshunter]

The Rotella T 15w40 doesn't need to be changed at 3K intervals. It is run for far, far, far longer intervals in commercial trucks. You could easily do 2X the mileage on your current oil without coming close to pushing its limits.

With your driving habits, I think it would be worth seeing if you can improve your fuel economy without sacrificing protection or increasing your oil consumption. Shell Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend is available in both 10W-40 and 10w30 weights and could provide that opportunity. I'd try the 10W-40 first, with a 7.5K interval and see what the results are. If you see no increase in consumption, then move to the 10w30. Your fuel economy should improve in each instance.

 

[Kaie]

Originally Posted By: rshunter
The Rotella T 15w40 doesn't need to be changed at 3K intervals. It is run for far, far, far longer intervals in commercial trucks. You could easily do 2X the mileage on your current oil without coming close to pushing its limits.

With your driving habits, I think it would be worth seeing if you can improve your fuel economy without sacrificing protection or increasing your oil consumption. Shell Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend is available in both 10W-40 and 10w30 weights and could provide that opportunity. I'd try the 10W-40 first, with a 7.5K interval and see what the results are. If you see no increase in consumption, then move to the 10w30. Your fuel economy should improve in each instance.


Oh wow... did not know that.

Thanks for the info! +20 points for HDEO!!!

 

[ueberooo]

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
I always thought the VWs of this era seemed to prefer 15w40 and I believe that's what the local dealer used in the warmer months. I'd personally use 15w40 from spring to fall and use 10w30 high mileage in winter...


+1

Or, alternatively as a winter oil, you could blend your 15w40 with 5w30 to thin the grade. 15w40 is great for the summer though, considering that you car likes it thick; I'm going to thin mine down with a quart of 5w20 because my subie likes something between a 30w and 40w in the summer.

Also, why not throw in a container of LubroMoly (available at Napa for $4.30). The old engine might like it.

Also, I'm curious what does it mean to loosen the rings?? Is there deposit build up in the piston rings, and is this common?

Quote:
Ive started using MMO in the oil to help loosen the rings and work its magic on my seals.

 

[Kaie]

Originally Posted By: Kaie
Originally Posted By: rshunter
The Rotella T 15w40 doesn't need to be changed at 3K intervals. It is run for far, far, far longer intervals in commercial trucks. You could easily do 2X the mileage on your current oil without coming close to pushing its limits.

With your driving habits, I think it would be worth seeing if you can improve your fuel economy without sacrificing protection or increasing your oil consumption. Shell Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend is available in both 10W-40 and 10w30 weights and could provide that opportunity. I'd try the 10W-40 first, with a 7.5K interval and see what the results are. If you see no increase in consumption, then move to the 10w30. Your fuel economy should improve in each instance.


Oh wow... did not know that.

Thanks for the info! +20 points for HDEO!!!


One more quick question/comment.

So if i lets say check my oil at like 2k, 4.5k, 6k and its black should i change it out like you would PCMO? Or is it ok if HDEO turns dark?

 

[m37charlie]

Originally Posted By: Kaie
One more quick question/comment.

So if i lets say check my oil at like 2k, 4.5k, 6k and its black should i change it out like you would PCMO? Or is it ok if HDEO turns dark?


Oil run in a diesel turns black very quickly, at first from very minimal amounts of soot. It is not until it gets up past 2,3 or even 4% that it damages the oil's ability to lubricate, because modern oils have dispersants to suspend soot and sludge properly.
If gasoline oil turns black, it freuqently means it has relatively large amounts of sludge (as opposed to soot) and a change might be a good idea.

Charlie

 

[Kaie]

So just dont run it dark for long. Cool.

It's amazing how much one can learn in such a short amount of time.

 

[rshunter]

Originally Posted By: Kaie
So just dont run it dark for long. Cool.

It's amazing how much one can learn in such a short amount of time.

Don't worry about the color. It tells you nothing beyond the fact that the oil is doing its job. Running any of the Rotella products to 7.5K in a VW 2.0 is easy service. Use a quality filter and forget about it between changes. Well, other than checking the level every couple of fill-ups...

 

[m37charlie]

Originally Posted By: Kaie
So just dont run it dark for long. Cool.

It's amazing how much one can learn in such a short amount of time.


No....it can be dark virtually the whole time. Just run it 7500mi or more, make sure it stays topped up.

Charlie