oil filter- tapped the center hole to a new size?

[chad8]

This may sound stupid , but I have a couple m-1 filters that are identical to the ones I need except the thread size is different. The filters are m-1 101 and i need M-1 106 which the only difference is that the center hole is a 18mm and I need 3.4. I have the tap so its not a big deal.
Just wondering if anyone else had done this.

 

[Loobed]

the inside center hole is where the clean oil comes out. If you tap the hole, you will get metal chips in your bearings.

 

[chad8]

Originally Posted By: Loobed


the inside center hole is where the clean oil comes out. If you tap the hole, you will get metal chips in your bearings.



Do you have any real world machining experience?

 

[46Harry]

Use the correct filter, you are taking a big risk trying to tap and thread the hole in the filters. Besides the chance of metal chips in the lube system, you take the risk of the filter blowing off because the threads are incorrect.

 

[Falken]

People don't generally do this. I have real world tapping experience with a tapping cart / station.

Would I do it on my car? Never.

Just keep the filters... The odd thing is in two years you may have a vehicle that needs them, or know someone that does.

I mean, an M-1 filter is a beautiful filter, if I had them I'd put them on display.

I only use lowly white can Wix filters

 

[svhanc]

Just go to an auto parts store and trade them in. Tell them you don't have the original receipt.
It is not worth it for a $10 filter to risk a oil leak and dump your oil or worse.

 

[toneydoc]

svhanc had the right answer. I agree with him

 

[Jim Allen]

Originally Posted By: chad8
Originally Posted By: Loobed


the inside center hole is where the clean oil comes out. If you tap the hole, you will get metal chips in your bearings.



Do you have any real world machining experience?


Did you intend that reply to be as snotty (in case it's edited, "mucousy") as it sounded? You asked for an opinion and the guy gave you one. If you only wanted positive reinforcement of your idea, you should have asked specifically.

To the point of your question, I've never found it works well to rethread existing holes unless the hole is enlarged enough to completely remove the old threads first. 18mm is pretty close to 3/4, so I don't think there's enough meat there. Plus, you have the chips issue Loobed mentioned.

 

[Chris142]

I would use the orange can before I would trust a retapped filter to be clean of all tapping chips.

 

[NavyDood]

Originally Posted By: chad8
Originally Posted By: Loobed


the inside center hole is where the clean oil comes out. If you tap the hole, you will get metal chips in your bearings.



Do you have any real world machining experience?
Do you? You are risking way too much even if you are a seasoned machinist. Can't even believe you would attempt this.

 

[OilNerd]

Can't you just exchange the filters for the correct ones?

If not, I'd sell the wrong-sized filters on BITOG, eBay, or CL, instead of tapping them out.

 

[chad8]

Originally Posted By: OilNerd
Can't you just exchange the filters for the correct ones?

If not, I'd sell the wrong-sized filters on BITOG, eBay, or CL, instead of tapping them out.


To answer some questions.
1) I was not trying being snotty . I just wish to have answers from some experienced machinists. If i sounded that way , i apologize.

2)I do have a decent amount of machining experience , but i have never attempted this. I have tapped many bolts and the metal chips always fall outwards so I do not fear chips in the engine.

3) The filters came from garage/estate sales . I pay .50-$1 each. I would not feel comfortable committing retail fraud.

4)The amount of difference between .71(18mm) and .75 seems right at the dividing line where i would feel comfortable.

5) In my experience , fine threads hold better when tapped.

 

[flstffxe]

The question remains, How much "meat" is left behind the newly cut thread if you were to do this?

Most of these thread bosses are created when the press stamps the base plate out and displaces material to create the the boss for the thread. The plate is only .100" thick or so and then the nipple/boss that gets threaded protrudes maybe another .250"(have a Service champ 3/4-16 (AA) base plate in hand).

Do we think the same baseplate might get used for both threads? Or does the 3/4" have a larger boss/nipple.

Tapping to a .040" larger thread is going to take .020" way from that wall behind the thread. Looking at the base plate I have in my hand, I wouldn't be doing it with the feeling that it was a sure thing. But I would do it on one and see what you get.

I have gone the other way on a filter stud. 20 x 1.5mm to 3/4-16.

20 x 1.5mm thread on both the filter and block side. I recut the filter side to 3/4-16. There are filter studs already made this way too. Likely a better option to look into.

I agree the chips can be dealt with.

 

[chad8]

Now that is some answers i like to hear.
The last threads i cut was on a fuel line for a solex bike. The original threads were a 9mm which is almost impossible to get.
I used a 10mm brake line and cut it down , flared the ends and I worked perfectly.
This is a far different situation from threading a hole where the filter is under pressure . We get into a lot of discussions on bitog and I figured that this was a new one.
The car is a 2000 3.4 monte which takes a common pf47 filter so its not necessary that I try this. I just wanted to know if there are more crazy people like me.

 

[SuperDave456]

If you are REALLY itching to use those filters I would just invest in a oil filter relocation kit.

It will increase the overall capacity of your drain pan, keep the filters vertically positioned, and will enable you to plumb a cooler or bypass into the system.

I'd trust my plumbing ability more than my tapping ability. If I messed up the plumbing I could catch it and replace it.

I'm not so sure about that when tapping and threading for a new filter size.
The idea actually scares me.
To much could go wrong, and I have the luck that going onto an on ramp during rush hour traffic, at 3,000+ RPM's while merging into a raging battle of irate drivers the filter would blow off and that would be the end of my existence.

 

[flstffxe]

Originally Posted By: chad8
Now that is some answers i like to hear.
The last threads i cut was on a fuel line for a solex bike. The original threads were a 9mm which is almost impossible to get........

..... I just wanted to know if there are more crazy people like me.


I use both 9mm x .75 and 9mm x 1.25 taps at work on a regular basis along with 5mm x .5 and 5mm x .8 at work. Not common for some but not weird for me.

I wouldn't call it crazy, the filter base plate may vary well be the same with the exception of the thread.

I am a machinist in the medical industry. Dealing with making and prototyping stuff day in and out is no biggie, so I don't really see changing a thread size as a big deal. If the rest of the construction is OK with it.

Here is one of the small parts I get to make. Yes that is the date of a penny.