Oil Filter Questions

[The Critic]

Few Questions for the “Filter-Knowledgeable” crowd here.

I have a dilemma between the Napa Gold, Purolator PureONE, and Purolator Premium Plus filters, depending on the application.

For a PL20252 equivalent application, my choice is down to either the Purolator PureONE or the Napa Gold 1393. I understand the better filtration capabilities of the PureONE, but the Napa Gold does have the better flow but its different efficiency numbers concern me.

First question, exactly how much better is the PureONE’s media compared to the media in the Napa Gold filter? Is it true that the media in the PureONE is a synthetic, compared to the normal cellulose in the Napa Gold? Of course, the main question is really, which one would you choose and why. Is the threaded-end bypass really that important? (Remember, I’m in Sacramento, it doesn’t get that cold, so I don’t think it’ll be in bypass that often, even in the winter) Also, assuming that the media in the Napa Gold is less efficient, does that mean it’ll have a larger capacity?

The second part of my question regards to cartridge type oil filters. In this area (in particular the Euro apps), Purolator lacks the appropriate size oil filter for the PureONE line-up…most of their cartridge filters are only available in the Premium Plus line.

If I had to purchase a cartridge oil filter for a long-drain application, say 7500+ miles, should I use the Napa Gold or Purolator Premium Plus? I’m guessing that the Napa Gold has a lesser media than the PureONE, so should this put the Napa Gold’s media in line with the Purolator Premium Plus efficiency wise, but with a higher capacity?

Thanks, Michael the Noob

 

[alreadygone]

Michael,

From limited exposure to GM cartridge apps. AC,Wix,and Puro generic boxes ALL contain the same filter (made somewhere in Europe I think).
I expect that because of low sales volume many manufacturers simply box filters purchased instead of built because of tooling start up costs.

Bob

 

[magaoidh2]

I would recommend the Baldwin Filter Microlite Full-Flow Lube Spin-on Contains : Anti-Drainback Valve 30 PSI By-Pass Valve Fits : Audi, BMW, Chrysler, Porsche, Volkswagen Automotive; Bobcat, Deutz, Ingersoll Rand, Vermeer Equipment Replaces : Chrysler J3232126; Volkswagen 56115561G Thread : 3/4-16
O.D. : 3 (76.2) Length : 5 1/8 (130.2)
I.Gskt : G449-B I believe that Baldwin is a higher quality filter. Need help in locating one, let me know. Thanks

 

[Filter guy]

Michael..
Contact the filter companies and request what is the efficiency of the media in the part number(s) you are interested in.

At the same time ask them what the dirt holding capacity of the filter is.

Take those two pieces of information and determine for yourself if Filter P is better than Filter W for what you want to do.

Provided they give you the information..

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alreadygone...

is correct when it comes to low volume part numbers. Every filter company sources replacement filter elements.


A lot of in-line fuel filters are made in Israel for instance. Every US maunfacture sources from the same company...and gets the exact same product. There is no differentiation. Only the price you pay..

 

[Mr Nice]

The Purolator fuel filter for my wife's Honda was made in Israel.

I was surprised cause I would think that it would be chaper to make them here in the USA.

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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I would think that it would be chaper to make them here in the USA.

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(shhh

) ..but you can't mask aid in the form of a jobs program if you produce it locally. We've gotten hip to outright giveaways ..now our friends have to earn their keep.

 

[The Critic]

So, I gave "kempl" a call at the Purolator filter hotline...(boy those Nashville guys have a heavy southern accent)

Someone also called Wix for efficiency ratings a few weeks ago, so I included them in this list as well.

code:

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Purolator PureONE Purolator Premium Plus Napa Gold/Wix

40 microns N/A 98%

34 microns 98.67%

30 microns 99.9% 96%

28 microns 95%

20 microns 99.9% 85%

15 microns 99.6% N/A 50%

10 microns 93.5% 60%

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For the Wix efficiency #s, I got 'em from another thread. So, from what I can see, I guess that in the event that PureOne cartridge filter is unavaliable, I'll have to buy a Premium Plus instead and NOT a Wix if I'm interested in better filtration.

EDIT: BTW, NEVER making another one of these "code" charts...they take way too long...I can make an excel spreadsheet...convert it to jpeg, and upload to flickr much faster.

 

[Bio-T]

Michael,

The problem is if BITOG does not host the data sheet, then "whenever" the data can disappear. If we host it as in a code as you did, the data is permanent on BITOG.

 

[Filter guy]

Michael..suppose, for discussion sake, both filters have 20 grams capacity.

Which do you think would be better for longer oil change intervals?

 

[The Critic]

FG,
If all three filters had a 20g dirt capacity, then the less-efficient filter will have a longer service life. The less-efficient filter would take longer to reach its capacity as it wouldn’t be filtering as finely as the high-efficiency filters, correct me if I’m wrong.

If I were to use a filter for a shorter drain interval, such as 5000-7000 miles, then I’d use the most-efficient filter I could find, as I doubt such a short interval would allow a filter to reach its capacity.

If I was going to run the filter for a very long interval, then I may instead use a less efficient filter, in hopes that it’ll stay in “filtration mode” longer before bypassing, even if it doesn’t filter as well as a high-efficiency filter, as a less efficient filter is still better than one that’s bypassing. But then again, the question all boils down to the chances of a filter media clogging within 10,000 miles, which is quite slim under ideal driving conditions, at least in a properly maintained engine.

In the end, I think I’ve found a source for $3-$4 Napa Gold branded Oil Filters, so I may just use those instead, as the price I’ve been offered is so tempting….

[ January 26, 2006, 01:03 AM: Message edited by: Michael Wan ]

 

[Filter guy]

What happens if the Purolator has 20 grams and the Wix 40 grams?

What if the "spec" is 20 grams?

As the "spec" is based on the OEM oil change length with a safety factor....what then?

What happens if you sacrafice capacity for efficiency?

But still comsumers act as though they don't need to change their driving habits or oil change intervals.
----------------------

Your assessment is correct about a lower efficient filter taking longer to "plug". What you do not know, nor can tell, is when the by-pass valve opens and allows unfiltered oil downstream. Nor can you know how often this happens.

A more efficient filter will plug quicker. What you don't know is as you extend your drain interval how your filter does.

You mention "ideal" driving conditions and a "properly" maintained engine. And yet we've seen some interesting pictures in this forum of cut open filters. People focus on the external look. What isn't seen is the entrapment of contamininant within the media itself. All we "see" is the surface look.

Would one assume that the media is doing it's job by removing contaminant within the fibers and the "outside" of the media is the last to "show" contaminant loading? If that is the case....what of the by-pass valve then?

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

What about it? My concern about bypass is whether the bypass valve is passing the oil over the dirty media, or short-routing it through the bottom. Which filters accomplish this for us?

 

[labman]

Purolator and Fram mostly use dome end along with the none E-core Champs now. Look inside the filter. Anything but a solid end cap means dome end. None of the E-cores with the plastic cage center tube are dome end.

[ January 26, 2006, 02:58 PM: Message edited by: wwillson ]

 

[Filter guy]

toocrazy2yoo

Didn't realize the by-pass valve controlled the motion of flow of the oil within the filter shell.

All filters, unless plugged, filter the oil when the by-pass "opens". The questions is, how much oil gets through the by-pass and how much through the media. It's not an either/or situation. It's about percentage of oil flow into the filter either getting through the media or the by-pass.

Labman..
Anything but a solid end cap means dome end

Some filters with solid end caps at the dome end are designed with no by-pass valve. Like most GM applications.

Just to clarify so some don't think they have an engine end by-pass, when they don't.

Also Champ still builds engine end by-pass valves in Non-Ecore product...by the millions.

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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What about it? My concern about bypass is whether the bypass valve is passing the oil over the dirty media, or short-routing it through the bottom. Which filters accomplish this for us?

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Let me take the liberty of rephrasing Mel's comment here ....

Let's say that you've got a 15psi(d) bypass valve. When it's open, what pressure is every square inch of media being subjected to? What will happen to the oil that is against the media?

Think of the filter as a relative "still well" in what it offers to the oil flow in a change in velocity.