Oil Filter Bypass Valve Flashlight Test

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Jul 4, 2011
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I found this Youtube video interesting.

Oil Filter Bypass Valve Flashlight Test

Basically it shows light coming from along the bottom of a section or two around the bypass valve. Meaning "some" oil will flow around the bypass valve when its not open. He mentions this is a common problem, and says Amsoil among other filters do the same thing.

I know, Youtube, but not everything on Youtube is swill.

I'm definitely not a fan of bypass valves mounted on non-coil springs.

Thanks
 
Definitely need a better design for these premium filters. Literally efficiency goes out the bypass. Not sure how widespread it is but this seems to be a random WCW purchased filter for this test knowing the similar Amsoil failed it. Out of all the ones he could've bought this one having the same issue seems to be fairly common occurrence.
 
Not long ago I did a similar light test on a Champ Labs made Super tech MP7317 with a c&p, and got a similar result to WCW. I have an FE7317 here I'm going to c&p along with the same bypass seal area light test and post pics. Going to see if I get the same or different result as WCW. If I'm speculating, it's going to be the same. Personally, I would like to see more include seal area light test with c&p of Champ Labs filters using that endcap bypass design, There's many of them that use it. That said, it is something above and beyond the standard c&p.
 
If only someone would invent a filter mount that has a bypass valve mounted in the block. Then the filter could be just a paper cartridge, with 100% of the oil going through the filter when the bypass is closed.

Nah, that will never happen, will it?

As far as this video?

You can’t tell anything from the light except that the seal is not “perfect”. How much oil goes around the case, through that gap? It’s not accurately measured by the flashlight.

This might be important, or it might be much ado about nothing.
 
If only someone would invent a filter mount that has a bypass valve mounted in the block. Then the filter could be just a paper cartridge, with 100% of the oil going through the filter when the bypass is closed.

Nah, that will never happen, will it?
Many GM LS series engines used a filter bypass valve built into the oil pan filter mount. Don't think they use it in current GM engines. That's why filters for them have no bypass valve. "Hot rodders" would block off the mount bypass valve to make all oil go through the filter. But that was a dangerous modification because it could cause too much dP across the filter and cause the center tube collapse or damage/blow-out the media. Not a good situation.

Ideally, it's better to have the bypass in the filter because it can be set to also account for the flow performance of the filter, whereas the built in bypass valve was just set to around 10-12 PSI, regardless of what filter was installed. So if a relatively restrictive filter was installed, then the bypass valve had less dP headroom before it opened.
 
Many GM LS series engines used a filter bypass valve built into the oil pan filter mount. Don't think they use it in current GM engines. That's why filters for them have no bypass valve. "Hot rodders" would block off the mount bypass valve to make all oil go through the filter. But that was a dangerous modification because it could cause too much dP across the filter and cause the center tube collapse or damage/blow-out the media. Not a good situation.

Ideally, it's better to have the bypass in the filter because it can be set to also account for the flow performance of the filter, whereas the built in bypass valve was just set to around 10-12 PSI, regardless of what filter was installed. So if a relatively restrictive filter was installed, then the bypass valve had less dP headroom before it opened.
Seven of the eight cars in my signature have the bypass built into the block and a cartridge filter.

The other one is 92 years old - and oil filtration was a luxury with 500 mile oil changes recommended.
 
Seven of the eight cars in my signature have the bypass built into the block and a cartridge filter.

The other one is 92 years old - and oil filtration was a luxury with 500 mile oil changes recommended.
Even engines today with a cartridge filter have the filter bypass in the cartridge housing, so it's not in the filter. The LS engines I described use spin-on filters.

Do any of your old cars use a spin-on with the bypass not in the filter?
 
Even engines today with a cartridge filter have the filter bypass in the cartridge housing, so it's not in the filter. The LS engines I described use spin-on filters.

Do any of your old cars use a spin-on with the bypass not in the filter?
All of my cars have the bypass in the block.

The Packard does not have full flow oil filtration. That was not a technology commonly incorporated in 1932.

It is a large bypass filter on the driver side of the block through which a small percentage of the oil flows. Original filters are no longer made, and the NOS filters are so outrageously expensive, that I have replaced it with a finely machined block of aluminum which contains a standard spin-on filter. But it is still only filtering a small percentage of the oil.
 
Though not as much as older GM vehicles, some newer GM still use block bypass with some their spin on filter applications The issue here is not that the filter has filter integral bypass, it's that it 'appears to be' poorly designed. Spin on filters with the bypass attached to the dome endcap and a separate compression spring won't have this issue. Or as mentioned, like the OG XG use a nonmetal bypass sealing area with the Fram/Champ bypass piece.
 
How many use a spin-on filter?
None, and that was my point, it’s quite clear that my point wasn’t clearly understood.

I was being sarcastic.

Just put the bypass valve in the block where it can be carefully machined and function properly. Sticking the valve into the filter is poor engineering, even though it’s been done for decades.
 
None, and that was my point, it’s quite clear that my point wasn’t clearly understood.

I was being sarcastic.
My point was that cartridge filters don't have a bypass valve by default, it's well known. A spin-on without a bypass valve is not the norm. Even members have posted many times that their spin-on filter didn't have a bypass valve and they didn't know why.

Just put the bypass valve in the block where it can be carefully machined and function properly. Sticking the valve into the filter is poor engineering, even though it’s been done for dedecades.
Not really for reasons mentioned above. Bypass valves in spin-ons rarely fail, never seen any indication reported here over 14 yeas. Bypass valves built in to the mount or housing can fail if the engine starts sludging up. You get a new bypass valve with every new spin-on filter that has a bypass valve.

When I bought filters for my Z06 (bypass in filter mount) I had to try and verify if they flowed well so the dP wasn't taking away some bypass valve setting (only set to 10-12 PSI) headroom and causing undue filter bypassing at high RPM.
 
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My point was that cartridge filters don't have a bypass valve by default, it's well known. A spin-on without a bypass valve is not the norm. Even members have posted many times that their filter didn't have a bypass valve and they didn't know why.


Not really for reasons mentioned above. Bypass valves in spin-ons rarely fail, never seen any indication reported here over 12 yeas. Bypass valves Bluilt in to the mount or housing can fail if the engine starts sludging up. You get a new bypass valve with every new filter.
So, let’s go back to the whole point of this thread.

What relevance does the light have when it is shining through the bypass valve?

The YouTuber, and a couple of people here, seem to think that this is disastrous. And indicative of poor quality.

Is it? I honestly don’t see how it really changes much of the efficiency the filter at all. How much oil is actually going through where that light shines?

Because that filter, and the valve, under zero pressure with a flashlight, are gonna behave differently than they do in an engine when a high-pressure slug of oil from the pump hits it on a cold start up, or when that engine is running with a steady stream of moderate pressure.

Just because you can measure something, doesn’t mean that you should, or that it has any meaning.

When they test the efficiency of these filters, are they doing it with that bypass valve there? Because if they are, then the filter works pretty darn well, despite the flashlight test failure.
 
So, let’s go back to the whole point of this thread.

What relevance does the light have when it is shining through the bypass valve?

The YouTuber, and a couple of people here, seem to think that this is disastrous. And indicative of poor quality.

Is it? I honestly don’t see how it really changes much of the efficiency the filter at all. How much oil is actually going through where that light shines?
It all depends how big of a gap/leak there is for dirty oil to bypass the media. If it's a very small leakage, the overall efficiency probably won't be impacted too much. Even the bypass valves that are metal-on-metal may have some very slight leakage. WIX filters with the base end bypass valve is also simply a metal-on-metal interface where the bypass assembly mates to the end cap, pressed tight from the assembled spring force of the leaf or coil spring in the end of the filter.

A lab (once refereed to the "bat cave" when it was being discussed many years ago) checked out some of the WIX XPs that had a pretty bad ISO efficiency at the time (50% @ 20u per WIX), and the conclusion was the end caps where not sealed very well, so if there is a pretty bad leakage, it can be pretty impactful to the efficiency. They tested just the media assembly out of the spin-on to take the leaks out of the equation, and it then tested better in efficiency. The reason Fram used a fiber ring to seal the leaf spring to the end cap on the OG Ultra was to help ensure efficiency. Fram isn't using that fiber seal anymore on any of their filters - probably a cost cutting move.

Here's something to ponder. With cartridge filters, there are countless housing designs and methods used to seal the cartridge inside the housing when assembled. Looking at how some of the cartridge filters assemble seal in the housing and cap, not all use decent sealing techniques inside the housing. Therefore, it's entirely possible for some slight dirty oil leakage to happen inside a cartridge filter housing depending on the exact design of how the cartridge is sealed inside the housing.

Personally, I'd rather have a spin-on oil filter than a cartridge filter for many reasons. The fact that the built-in bypass valve is a fixed setting, if it's set relatively low then that means there isn't much bypass setting headroom to take up filter dP vs flow and filter loading factors. I don't know what some of these cartridge filter bypass valves are set to, so it could be they are set relatively high. I do know my Z06 built-in bypass valve was only set to 10-12 PSI, which is pretty low for a filter bypass setting.

Because that filter, and the valve, under zero pressure with a flashlight, are gonna behave differently than they do in an engine when a high-pressure slug of oil from the pump hits it on a cold start up, or when that engine is running with a steady stream of moderate pressure.

Just because you can measure something, doesn’t mean that you should, or that it has any meaning.
The light leakage through the gap that people are referring to is between the leaf spring and the end cap, and it's a metal-to-metal seal. It's not actually on the bypass valve itself. WCW's video showed him pressing down as hard as he can (probably close to the spring force of the leaf spring when under assembled force) and the air gap didn't close, so the leaf spring was too stiff to deform and close up the air gap. It almost looked like there was a burr or protrusion there, but he didn't go in for a closer inspection. The simple fix for that would be for the leaf spring to be made flatter and smoother in the area where it mates with the end cap - a simple tweak to the manufacturing process.

When they test the efficiency of these filters, are they doing it with that bypass valve there? Because if they are, then the filter works pretty darn well, despite the flashlight test failure.
Yes, the entire filter assembly just as it's use on an engine, is tested for efficiency.
 
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The simple fix for that would be for the leaf spring to be made flatter and smoother in the area where it mates with the end cap - a simple tweak to the manufacturing process.

I still have a couple of filters (champ & fram) leaf springs on my workbench from past and recent cut opens. I did notice some of the Champ leaf springs have some poor deep draw forming of the hat that have wrinkled edges. Where as the Original Fram Titanium/Ultra leaf spring was completely smoothly formed, which of course had a fiber seal it seated on assembly of the media stack.

I'll post some photos tonight.
 
Is this a disastrous defect? Maybe. What I know is this and some of the others are premium oil filters, not a cheap knock off. As Zeeosix stated these types of bypass valves used to come with a gasket or seal to ensure there was no flow around the bypass valve. That is no longer the case. As such I do not believe these filters warrant their premium price, especially for extended OCIs.
 
Is this a disastrous defect? Maybe. What I know is this and some of the others are premium oil filters, not a cheap knock off. As Zeeosix stated these types of bypass valves used to come with a gasket or seal to ensure there was no flow around the bypass valve. That is no longer the case. As such I do not believe these filters warrant their premium price, especially for extended OCIs.
I think the only spin-on filter with metal end caps that had a fiber sealing ring for the leaf spring was the OG Ultra & OG Titanium. I don't recall any other brand or model using such a design.

One advantage of filters with fiber end caps is that they will seal better than a metal-on-metal seal on the end caps.
 
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