Oil coking everywhere?

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Originally Posted By: punisher
Now the problem is keeping all of that garbage out of the oil pickup screen.


*swears and cusses enough to wake babies from sleep*

You make an interesting point, I wonder if I have enough room to drop the oil pan and clean it and the pickup screen too?

*goes outside to scream at nothing in particular*
 
Originally Posted By: sunfire
You may have to give MMO a whole day to work its magic.


If you've got a sticky lifter or maybe a few soft deposits, MMO can work wonders and I'll recommend it.
If you have an engine like the OP is showing us, 100K miles on a 20% solution of MMO will not loosen all that stuff up.
IMO, if the engine is hitting on all 8 cylinders and is relatively healthy, just live with it. ALL LONG AS THE DEPOSITS ARE ATTACHED AND ARE NOT MOVING AROUND THE ENGINE, everything will be fine.
 
I'll know about how healthy it is once I get it back together. I'm not going to mess with the oil pan and hope for the best. The car drove fine at highway speeds, just had that clacking sound and ridiculous oil consumption. Possibly now with that rocker tightened down, properly sealed valve covers, and a clear path for oil to drain back into the block, that will improve.

I want to see this engine last a while, but I also don't want to spend any money on it. $13 valve cover gaskets is fine if it gives me another month of driving. I found a source for the AOD transmission I'll need, guy has plenty of them and cheap. I just need to find an engine I can use, cheap. But the longer this car drives with the 351M, the more engine I can afford. 2-barrel 302's are a dime a dozen, but right now I'm looking at a nickel.

Here's the video of the engine itself with the valve cover off, after cleaning the gasket mating surface and pulling some of the coked oil out, but not all of it. I still have to remove the rockers/pushrods/etc and make sure that drain hole is plugged again while I do it. For now I've got a Sharpie cap blocking the hole (it fit real nice and happened to be laying on the cowl so I grabbed it).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miBQOhJzAhY
 
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The problem with cleaning is that you have to do everything completely, or leave it alone.
Any scraping will have stuff end up in the crankcase and oil pickup, which may starve the motor.
It will take a LOT of oil changes with MMO or any cleaner to fix this!
 
I know, it's a mess, right?

I'm stepping up my search for the elusive 400FMX engine, made from 71 to 73 and will bolt right in and allow me to use an AOD without changing motor mounts, exhaust, and all sorts of stuff.

My wife's truck decided to pop the radiator again so I had to throw it all back together. I cleaned what I could and made sure all the deposits I could see were staying put. The big clicky clacky sound IS GONE. But there's still a lifter tap, so I'm thinking the lifter that was pushing the loose rocker arm is collapsed or something. I'll do the passenger side when the wife's truck is health again. But for now, it is definitely running better. And if I can get a few more weeks or a couple of months out of it, I'll be happy.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Cogito
What is coking?


Coke is the hard abrasive residue remaining when oil undergoes severe oxidation.


Yeah and it's a real PITA to get out from under fingernails.

The tick is quieting down after a pint of MMO to get it back to the top of the dipstick. That's 130 miles of driving. It wasn't quite full when I pulled the valve cover anyway. And there are NO leaks from the driver's valve cover now. In addition to that, there don't seem to be any leaks from the passenger's valve cover although there wasn't any before, either. And I don't smell oil while driving, turning, stopping, or even after a long highway run. I still have a light tap and I bet that lifter will pump up over the next week of driving.
 
Sounds like the engine is starting to sort itself out.

It's nice that you can drive it while you are doing this, and allow the additives (MMO) to do their thing....I dunno, with a bit more 'liquid wrenching', this engine MAY be solid enought to keep it as the powerplant in this car.

I'd love to have a car like that to drive around as my main transport. That would rock.....
 
Another thing - with all the 'scraping' you've been doing, I'd change the oil and filter pretty soon - you don't what that stuff re-circulating!
 
Living out in the country does have its bright side. I do have to drive 8 miles, 70mph, to get to the nest town for groceries and whatever. So today's run was pretty uneventful and the light tick is the same. Still high on the dipstick, too. I'm lovin' it.

Clean oil and filter will be coming next weekend. I shouldn't have to drive the car much between now and then except to Wal-mart and back for the oil and the filter. 13 miles, 70mph each way. It'll be a good warm-up for the actual oil change, and I hope all that mess comes out, then when I do the other side I can do it all over again. Remind me to buy two filters and two jugs of oil. Or more if something's on sale.
 
You know, I haven't run full tanks in it but once since I've had it, ran 210 miles in 15 gallons. 14mpg and that was half highway, half cruising mostly 40mph city streets.

I do expect this to improve with the AOD swap I have planned...now that I finally found a reasonably priced bellhousing adapter to make such a swap.

I do now see wet oil at the back of the passenger valve cover. But consumption is still the same, 130 miles and I added a half quart today. I can live with 260 miles per quart.

Yes, you heard me right, I am perfectly fine with consuming a gallon of oil every 1000 miles.
 
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