To many self appointed experts recomend going against factory recomendations. As andrew said just do what the factory recomends and stop guessing.
Oil choices- 05 V6 Accord
- Thread starter Yagenta13
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Honda is the one of the most stingiest companies around when it comes to telling you exactly what's in their oils. They don't tell you squat. I'm with others here, it's good ol' "regular" oil with an extra dose of moly thrown in. I believe in moly, but too much of moly is a bad thing. I don't believe Honda is over saturating their oil with moly, but they do believe in the stuff. I mean, moly has been around for eons and has been tested time and time again.
I'd leave the stuff in, as I did with our 02 V6 Accord, up to 5K. Then I jump ship to M1 5w30. If your worried about specs, the M1 is actually a "high" 20 weight, so you got the best of both worlds. If you've been lurking, look around at Accords and M1. Lot's of UOA's, including mine, all have come back stellar. Stick with a proven oil that's been tested by lots of members. Also, it's readily available and LOTS cheaper than the two brands your looking into.
I'd leave the stuff in, as I did with our 02 V6 Accord, up to 5K. Then I jump ship to M1 5w30. If your worried about specs, the M1 is actually a "high" 20 weight, so you got the best of both worlds. If you've been lurking, look around at Accords and M1. Lot's of UOA's, including mine, all have come back stellar. Stick with a proven oil that's been tested by lots of members. Also, it's readily available and LOTS cheaper than the two brands your looking into.
Thanks for the replies! And yes, I will be leaving in my factory fill. I don't think there is much "risk" in leaving it in and there is some real risk in draining it since Honda is very clear in the manual about not touching it.
Anyway, I am still quite un-decided about a change-over oil after the bulk of break in is done. I know that a standard, conventional oil would probably do just fine and that I'm splitting hairs here- but isn't that what we all do here?
The lack of an API starburst on Redline and Amsoil is a minor issue but I guess I trust track record over a simple certification/qualification. Many here have had great results with both Redline and Amsoil regardless of the the API issue.
I appreciate you all bearing with the newbie question in the first place...I just hadn't seen it asked quite that way yet. Here's what I'm considering as my main options:
#1
Amsoil 5w30 with Schaeffer's 132 for Summer
Amsoil 0w30 with Schaeffer's 132 for Winter
Amsoil Oil Filter
#2
Redline 5w30 for Summer, 5w-20 or 30 for winter
#3 Castrol or Mobile synthetic with Schaeffer's 132
Further research will be my guide.
Anyway, I am still quite un-decided about a change-over oil after the bulk of break in is done. I know that a standard, conventional oil would probably do just fine and that I'm splitting hairs here- but isn't that what we all do here?
The lack of an API starburst on Redline and Amsoil is a minor issue but I guess I trust track record over a simple certification/qualification. Many here have had great results with both Redline and Amsoil regardless of the the API issue.
I appreciate you all bearing with the newbie question in the first place...I just hadn't seen it asked quite that way yet. Here's what I'm considering as my main options:
#1
Amsoil 5w30 with Schaeffer's 132 for Summer
Amsoil 0w30 with Schaeffer's 132 for Winter
Amsoil Oil Filter
#2
Redline 5w30 for Summer, 5w-20 or 30 for winter
#3 Castrol or Mobile synthetic with Schaeffer's 132
Further research will be my guide.
Oh please, run these longer than 5K.quote:
Originally posted by Yagenta13:
Thanks for the replies! And yes, I will be leaving in my factory fill. I don't think there is much "risk" in leaving it in and there is some real risk in draining it since Honda is very clear in the manual about not touching it.
Anyway, I am still quite un-decided about a change-over oil after the bulk of break in is done. I know that a standard, conventional oil would probably do just fine and that I'm splitting hairs here- but isn't that what we all do here?
The lack of an API starburst on Redline and Amsoil is a minor issue but I guess I trust track record over a simple certification/qualification. Many here have had great results with both Redline and Amsoil regardless of the the API issue.
I appreciate you all bearing with the newbie question in the first place...I just hadn't seen it asked quite that way yet. Here's what I'm considering as my main options:
#1
Amsoil 5w30 with Schaeffer's 132 for Summer
Amsoil 0w30 with Schaeffer's 132 for Winter
Amsoil Oil Filter
#2
Redline 5w30 for Summer, 5w-20 or 30 for winter
#3 Castrol or Mobile synthetic with Schaeffer's 132
Further research will be my guide.
My vote would go to the Amsoil 0w30 year-round. It's thick enough as a 30wt to protect year-round, while providing easier flow in cold weather.
Oh yeah, its Mobil, not Mobile.
Michael
Yagenta,
I would modify your options a bit. The Amsoil S2k 0w30 does not need Schaeffers #132 EP but Mobil 1 does since it is thinner than the Amsoil ASL 5w30 and the S2K 0w-30. The #132 will thicken the viscosity of the host oil and Mobil 1 is the best choice for the #132. Do a search in the additive section for the Molakule Brew of 3:1 #132/Lube Control, or "Molabrew" as it is called.
Michael Wan was correct earlier in thread recommending the Lube Control with Amsoil products to control thickening and lower the wear metals on an extended drains 7.5K miles and up.
I would modify your options a bit. The Amsoil S2k 0w30 does not need Schaeffers #132 EP but Mobil 1 does since it is thinner than the Amsoil ASL 5w30 and the S2K 0w-30. The #132 will thicken the viscosity of the host oil and Mobil 1 is the best choice for the #132. Do a search in the additive section for the Molakule Brew of 3:1 #132/Lube Control, or "Molabrew" as it is called.
Michael Wan was correct earlier in thread recommending the Lube Control with Amsoil products to control thickening and lower the wear metals on an extended drains 7.5K miles and up.
For 3000-5000 mi changes I cant think of anything superior to Schaeffer's 7000....
Gene
Gene
.....And don't forget that with Honda engines having more copper in their bearings than most other vehicles, I would recommend throwing in some Militec. This stuff will eliminate the wear associated with thst type of bearing.
Case in point, Militec was added to the crankcase of a Caterpiller tractor...one of those huge behemoth land movers, and it was due for an overhaul, because the mechanics found excessive copper in the oil. Well, that would have run about 8000 bucks, so someone recommended Militec, and they followed the suggestion. Some time later after the oil change, and the addition of Militec, there was no noticeable amount of copper in the oil. Wow is all I can say, and I already use it regularly.
BtB
Case in point, Militec was added to the crankcase of a Caterpiller tractor...one of those huge behemoth land movers, and it was due for an overhaul, because the mechanics found excessive copper in the oil. Well, that would have run about 8000 bucks, so someone recommended Militec, and they followed the suggestion. Some time later after the oil change, and the addition of Militec, there was no noticeable amount of copper in the oil. Wow is all I can say, and I already use it regularly.
BtB
Redline 5W-20 would be my recommendation. Its a little thicker than most 20s and it comes close to approaching a 30. Redline is so good that you can stay with the 20 recommendation that Honda recommends and get the improved gas mileage from it.
If you are determined to run a 30 then I guess given your options that Id go with Amsoil. You are running a grade higher than Honda recommends so you should already be well protected regardless of which oil you choose.
Redlines 5W-20 is much better than Amsoils 5W-20. Bothof their 30s are pretty good and Amsoil should be cheaper. If these oils thicken on you and there have been reports that with extended drains that they do then you might end up running a 40 viscosity oil in an engine designed for a 20.
Id stick with the Redline 5W-20 given your preferences.
Happy Motoring to You,
Bugshu
If you are determined to run a 30 then I guess given your options that Id go with Amsoil. You are running a grade higher than Honda recommends so you should already be well protected regardless of which oil you choose.
Redlines 5W-20 is much better than Amsoils 5W-20. Bothof their 30s are pretty good and Amsoil should be cheaper. If these oils thicken on you and there have been reports that with extended drains that they do then you might end up running a 40 viscosity oil in an engine designed for a 20.
Id stick with the Redline 5W-20 given your preferences.
Happy Motoring to You,
Bugshu
Havent looked at Amsoils product line lately but it seems that a few months ago their 5W-20 wasnt even a full synthetic. It was kind of a blend. It probably has a good add pack but I got the opinion that the poster wanted to run a full synthetic.
Happy Motoring Buster,
Bugshu
Happy Motoring Buster,
Bugshu
Havent looked at Amsoils product line lately but it seems that a few months ago their 5W-20 wasnt even a full synthetic. It was kind of a blend. It probably has a good add pack but I got the opinion that the poster wanted to run a full synthetic.
Oh man dude, you better have your flak vest on after that statement.
I am over in Qatar for 120 days as part of the Expeditionary Air Force and just returned from a trip to Baghdad. I think you will need the flak vest more than I did on my trip north or my stay in Qatar
Oh man dude, you better have your flak vest on after that statement.
I am over in Qatar for 120 days as part of the Expeditionary Air Force and just returned from a trip to Baghdad. I think you will need the flak vest more than I did on my trip north or my stay in Qatar
Redline 5W20 looks pretty good to me too, but expensive, I read "things" about RL and not locally available. I hope you pick RL and post lots of UOA's! Here's what I did:
0-3000 Factory
3000-6800 Castrol GTX 5W20
6800-9800 Castrol GTX 5W20 (No UOA kit...should have saved some anyway. Kicking self.)MPG 30.8.
Oil blots looked great.
9800-13,500 on Mobil 1 5W20, going to 15K. Highway miles 80%. Hw-mpg, +1 with Mobil 1, but maybe just breaking in more. My '04 V6 uses no oil. Filtec/Honda filters seem good. Maybe Denso or Napa Gold after I use up 6 Filtecs.
I want to use Mobil 7500 5W20 for 3k OCI's if it ever gets here and my PEPBOY calendar coupons run out.(Buy 3 get 3 free Mobil 1.) At $16 for 6 I don't mind "wasting" the syn on 5K OCI's.
I follow the 0W30/5W30 vs. 5W20 debate closely. Happy trails.
0-3000 Factory
3000-6800 Castrol GTX 5W20
6800-9800 Castrol GTX 5W20 (No UOA kit...should have saved some anyway. Kicking self.)MPG 30.8.
Oil blots looked great.
9800-13,500 on Mobil 1 5W20, going to 15K. Highway miles 80%. Hw-mpg, +1 with Mobil 1, but maybe just breaking in more. My '04 V6 uses no oil. Filtec/Honda filters seem good. Maybe Denso or Napa Gold after I use up 6 Filtecs.
I want to use Mobil 7500 5W20 for 3k OCI's if it ever gets here and my PEPBOY calendar coupons run out.(Buy 3 get 3 free Mobil 1.) At $16 for 6 I don't mind "wasting" the syn on 5K OCI's.
I follow the 0W30/5W30 vs. 5W20 debate closely. Happy trails.
If you want to stick with an SAE 5w-20, I'd run the Redline product over the Amsoil 5w-20 in this engine. However to get the best results from Redline, you have to stick with using it all the time. Initially, you will see some high Pb/Cu levels in this particular engine with RL, but that will stabilize after 2-3 oil changes ....
The Redline 5w-20 is actually a 30wt in terms of HT/HS viscosity, so you can follow the manufacturers recommendation to use 5w-20 and still get a HT/HS of 3.3 Cp, which is thicker than most 5w30 or 10w30 grades.
I really like Redlines basestock and general oxidative stability, and if I didn't use Amsoil, I'd run Redline in my two Audis. I don't think I'd use it in my lawn/garden equipment however, since the PAO based synthetics seem to do a better job of preventing corrosion in the presence of moisture. This is a consideration for equipment that is used on seasonal basis....
TS
The Redline 5w-20 is actually a 30wt in terms of HT/HS viscosity, so you can follow the manufacturers recommendation to use 5w-20 and still get a HT/HS of 3.3 Cp, which is thicker than most 5w30 or 10w30 grades.
I really like Redlines basestock and general oxidative stability, and if I didn't use Amsoil, I'd run Redline in my two Audis. I don't think I'd use it in my lawn/garden equipment however, since the PAO based synthetics seem to do a better job of preventing corrosion in the presence of moisture. This is a consideration for equipment that is used on seasonal basis....
TS
We've seen good UOAs here for Honda engines with a number of good quality oils, dinos, blends and synthetics. You can do well with any of them in concert with good maintenance overall.
Our 02 Accord V6 is over 50K miles, run steadily on Pennzoil 5W-20, recently with addition of 132 and LC, excellent UOA, not using any oil that we can see. Others have done well with Exxon Superflo, M1, GC, Havoline, Schaeffers...no oil appears to stand out of the pack.
Our 02 Accord V6 is over 50K miles, run steadily on Pennzoil 5W-20, recently with addition of 132 and LC, excellent UOA, not using any oil that we can see. Others have done well with Exxon Superflo, M1, GC, Havoline, Schaeffers...no oil appears to stand out of the pack.
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