Oil choice for 100k mi e36 M3 in CO with tick

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I'm an oil newb, and have for the past few weeks I have been trying to sort through the vast amount of information, and conflicting opinion regarding a good oil choice for my car. Some say thick, some say thin, and of course everyone's got their brand.
Here's a little background:
I've got a 1995 BMW M3 daily driver (auto trans if that matters), just rolled over 100k last month. I am the second owner, and the car has always been very well cared for. It has never seen the track, and most likely never will. All things considered, and with the way a car like this could be driven, I would say I go pretty easy on it. I live in Denver, so we can see extremes in temperature from time to time, but typically it's fairly moderate here. The car is garaged, so even a cold start isn't going to be all that cold. I'm running Valvoline Synpower 10W30, and have been for the past few years. I have no particular loyalty to Valvoline, but before I started doing my own changes, the shop I went to was Valvoline all the way. I've had a tick for the past year or two, and while it has been getting a little more frequent, it still is not constant, and seems to go away once the engine is really warm. I have a feeling it's a lifter, though I'm not 100% sure of that. I've got a bit of a rough idle after a cold start, but beyond that, the car is tip top. No leaks (knock on wood) or anything like that. I'm looking to switch oils because I believe there are better choices out there that can provide better protection for my engine, and I'm hoping the right oil may quiet down that tick more, if not get rid of it completely.
I definitely will stick with a synth oil, my confusion is regarding the weight and brand. After finding GC locally, I did some reading about it, and it sounds like a good choice for me, then I hear people knock it, saying it's way too thin for our weather (I did read the myths about thin oil). I don't know if I need to go the high mileage road yet, since there are no leaks, and besides the tick, no other real problems. I guess I'm torn between GC, PP, RP, and Lubro Moly (which I know is primarily a choice based on preference). In regards to the weight thing, it seems like the more I read about it, the more confused I get. Perhaps the fact that the whole thing seems to be like a matter of opinion, more than a clear cut right or wrong, is making it difficult for me to decide. I figured if there's anywhere I can get a solid answer (and hopefully avoid a flame) about what should be the best choice for this particular engine, this is the place.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers~
Eric
 
I would (and I cringe saying it)recommend you should try the auto-rx double treatment to clean the lifter and see if it goes away.....(ok everybody start the flamer)......after that keep going with Valvoline.
 
I'll read up on the auto-rx, thanks for the suggestion.
IS there a German version of the 5W40, or is it all the same? Are you thinking the GC is just too thin for my car?
 
You're using Valvoline 10w30 and you're worrying about 0w30 thickness? Guess which one is thicker!

Start using valvoline maxlife synthetic. If you can't find it, try the new Mobil1 10w30/10w40 HM oils.

Since winter can be cold, use any of the 5w40's for better cold start flow.

Since you didn't mention OCI, adjust it accordingly. Don't extend it!

Fix the rough idle. Make sure everything is working perfectly, or seek a german specialist. Could be something simple. Try some FI cleaners.

Keep oil topped off always. Inadequate oil level can cause noises.

What oil weight is required?
 
I was just thinking that 5w40 was what BMW would put in it at the dealer, so any "fix" from the dealer would likely start with a change to their oil and filter of choice.
 
Only with the e46 M3s with the S54 engine does BMW spec 10W60. I'll second the use of a good quality 5W40 on your engine.

Lifter tick is not uncommon in the M50/S50 engines--doesn't seem to negatively affect wear. From personal experience, two cycles of AutoRx did not seem to clear away the chronic lifter tick on my wife's 97 328i (~110K miles when the tick first started showing up). Unless it bothers you a lot, I'd just let it go. Otherwise, you're talking about $3K or more to remove the head and replace all the lifters (it's hard to tell which one is bad).
 
My '95 M3 also with an auto trans has had the lifter "tick" since new. It goes away after warming up. I have 70K miles on the car now.

I've used M1 15W-50 at 5K OCI (no oil consumption between changes) until the other day when I switched to Castrol 5W-40. No real reason...just thought I would try something lighter.

David
 
I would say go M1, my ford probe used to tick so loud I would be embarrassed to drive it and I have M1 10w30 (with aprox 25K miles since last change) and it runs quiet, and smooth, like brand new. The car has 180K miles on it.

And whatever you use, just make sure you use a good filter, not a POS Fram or Bosch. Spring the extra 3 bucks for a Napa gold or Mobile 1 filter.
 
Thanks for the input everyone!
So it seems that the general consensus is M1 or Castrol, somewhere around a 5W40. Couple of follow up questions: after reading the sticky about GC I gathered that it is a thick 0W30, or does that only apply to the hot viscosity? I'm just wondering if it's close enough to be included in the 5W40 recommendation.

About Auto Rx: from what I've been reading, it sounds like a good product, I might as well give it a shot. However, on the site it says to add to existing oil, then complete the steps before changing oil. I'm due for some fresh oil now, so wouldn't it be better to do a change, then run the auto-rx, and do another change afterward? Otherwise we're talking an additional 3500 miles on oil and a filter that already need changing.

Thanks again!
 
About a month ago, I was dead set on buying a 1998 BMW 328i, so I did all my research on oils.

This is what I was planning on doing, and why:

First, I would wait until it warmed up, and then do TWO treatments with Auto RX, with Delo 400 15w40 as BOTH the clean and rinse oils.

Why?: #1 The warmer weather would help with startup, as the 15w40 would be thicker. #2 frank says auto RX works better the warmer the oil is. #3 Auto RX requires a dino oil, and Delo 400 15w40 is a very robust dino, that would withstand BMW temps and conditions. #4 I can buy 6 GALLONS of delo 15w40 for $50 at sams club.

I would NOT run German Castrol.

Why?: Although i would LIKE to run GC, it is going to be HARD to find. Auto zone has GC on "sell through" right now, which means when they sell out... they don't plan on restocking. I would not want to run an oil i would have a hard time finding.... so why start?

I WOULD look into the HM versions of Mobil 1 10w30 and 10W-40. ALSO, some one just posted an UOA using Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40, that was pretty good.

Here is the thread:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...;gonew=1#UNREAD

RTS 5W-40 would be an inexpensive oil to buy in bulk at sams as well.
 
I wouldn't be afraid of using Castrol GTX as your ARX oil. You could get lighter 10W40 and 10W30 and start ARX sooner. Some have also said that the "splashability" of thinner oil helps the ARX process. Yes, I realize "splashability" isn't a real word
smile.gif


If you drive year-round in Ohio, I would be inclined not to run 10W, and seek a 5W or 0W that otherwise meets your needs. M1 0W40 seems to always get excellent UOA results (including my own) but I've steered away from M1 for other reasons. Of course, GC is plentiful in my area.

There are UOA results posted with excellent results from GTX in non-M cars of the same vintage. Since this is the North American E36 M3 it is running a modified M50 (bored and stroked I believe, with replaced ECU) instead of the hot euro engine of the day (or the E46). Unless you run really hot and hard, I wouldn't dwell on sticking with 15W40 and similar oils in that engine. It's too bad GC is hard to get in your area - it would probably be perfect. My 1998 M52 really seems to like it.

Craig.
 
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