Oil change and type

[blupupher]

Well, I just did my yearly oil change on my mower today and did a flush with 1/2 qt of some regular dino I had laying around. First time I have ever done a flush on it, and the oil came out just about as bad as the oil that was in there to start with after running it for 10 minutes. I filled it with 10w-40 Valvoline MaxLife I had just to see how it does. I was thinking of maybe changing it again after my next mow just to see what it looks like.
This is a (I am guessing here) a B&S walk behind push mower, some generic mower that I got from my dad about 8 yrs ago and he had about 10 years before that. I keep telling myself I am going to buy a new mower "next year" but this thing keeps running. I have had to replace the blade, the fuel tank, the pull cord, throttle cable, and need to replace the auto stop cable. Burns just a bit of oil on initial start, just a few puffs of blue smoke. It has been getting harder to start the last 2 years, but I need to replace the plug. I replace the filter every year, but the plug I just pull and sand the electrodes with sandpaper. I guess not too bad for a mower that sees about 30 1.5 hr mows a year for the past 17 or so years.

Well, I guess I really don't have a point or question, so I will stop babbling. Thanks for reading.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

In my opinion, 30.5 hours calls for "every year" oil changes with a thin dino (10-40) in the heat of Texas. Also calls for a new plug every two year (in my mower book). If the oil's yucky after changing it, then I'll guess that mower's only seen a few oil changes in 17 years.

No sense in complaining if you neglect maintaining... lol!

[ April 03, 2005, 12:03 PM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]

 

[blupupher]

Yea, when my dad owned it, I doubt the oil was changed more than 1-2 times in 10 yrs. I have changed it probably 6 times in the past 8 yrs, the plug 2-3 times, and the air filter every other year. I think I even used some used oil from my Jeep 1 yr.

I guess my main question above is does MaxLife really make any difference over regular dino in this engine? I figured the 10w-40 would help due to the heat, I have always used a 10w-30 oil and always seemed real thin when draining.

 

[Bror Jace]

For the last few years, it seems that 10W-30 'conventioanl" oils have become more prone to shearing ... even 10W-30s.

Using a 10W-40 might be a good choice because it'll still be a 30 weight oil after it shears some.

Nope, we have no definitive proof that a high-mileage oil is better for these engines ... but that's what I use in some of mine.

--- Bror Jace

 

[Hubjeep]

When renting a ditch-witch (at Rent-all) I asked the mechanic what oil they use. He said they use 10W-40 in all their rental equip (and this place rents a lot of stuff).

-John

 

[Winston]

The spark plugs are cheap. A new one will probably help with the starting. They make a new type that is 50 cents more than the regular($1.79 vs 2.29). The tip design is different and it is supposed to make starting easier.

 

[reyjay1]

quote:

---

Originally posted by blupupher:
Yea, when my dad owned it, I doubt the oil was changed more than 1-2 times in 10 yrs. I have changed it probably 6 times in the past 8 yrs, the plug 2-3 times, and the air filter every other year. I think I even used some used oil from my Jeep 1 yr.

I guess my main question above is does MaxLife really make any difference over regular dino in this engine? I figured the 10w-40 would help due to the heat, I have always used a 10w-30 oil and always seemed real thin when draining.

---

For running a mower in Texas summer all you really want or need is a straight 30 weight.

 

[Bill J.]

Briggs & Stratton


Oil-Synthetic 5-30

- Using Synthetic oil offers better wear control of your engine, even under severe operating conditions. Since synthetics have better “inherent strength” they have the ability to keep functioning at the highest level for the longest possible time.

Synthetic Oil gives your engine better viscosity temperature response, better low temperature fluidity, better thermal stability better oxidation stability, lower volatility, better deposit control, and better wear control.

This in return reduces risk of equipment failure, promotes trouble free operation, reduces maintenance costs, extends service life, and long term engine durability.

Briggs & Stratton’s best engine oil, warranty certified, for all small 4 cycle engines. The use of this high quality detergent oil assures compliance with Briggs & Stratton warranty requirements regarding the use of appropriate oil.

 

[rcy]

I use GC in my mower. Believe it or not.

 

[blupupher]

Well, i finally used the mower today. Replaced the plug first (what should it ba gapped at? it was a .030, so I left it). It is a CJ8 plug.
It started as ususal (4th or 5th pull) and blew blue smoke as usual. It ran just fine, but I noticed is did seem to be blowing a little bit of smoke as I was going along. Not sure if it has been doing this for a while and I am just looking a little closer at it, but when I shut it off, blue smoke comes out of the muffler for 5-6 seconds. I don't remember it ever doing that. Oil level was the same.

How can I be sure what engne I have? I can find no maker marks, but found:

Model: 124702

Type: 316701

Code: 90021356

I went to the B&S site an dit may be one of theirs, made in 1990. It is not as old as I thought.

 

[Ugly3]

I have been using synthetic 5w30 in all my small engines for 10 or 15 years now. Start easy and no consumption to speak of.

 

[LubeOiler]

I can't find out if anyone has used HM oil in their mower. Mine has started useing oil a little every time I mow. I think putting FP &LC was a little overkill.I think it cleaned it up but now it seems to use oil. I use Chevron Supream 10/30.I have some Penzoil HM and thought I would try it.

 

[Stooge]

Looks like a traditional L-head motor. I would remove the head and clean the carbon off. It will run, start and burn less oil on start-up. BTW - I've 15W40 diesel oil in every lawn, garden, yard tool. I've narry had a problem - hot or cold.

 

[Gary in Sandy Eggo]

Are they recommending multi-grade oils in lawnmower engines these days? Usta be the owner's manuals said to avoid multi-grades and use SAE-30 HD oil. Reason for this is that the crankcase is very small on lawnmower engines, and the higher consumption of multi-grade oils could leave you with an oil-starved engine before you knew it.

My rotary B&S lawnmower engine is at least 25 years old. Actually swapped it to a different rotary deck because mine had been eaten through by rust in several places. I use SAE-30 all the time.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

 

[80caprice]

briggs even recommends a synthetic 5w30. though using multi grades will increase consumption, but not much unless its a smoker anyway, thats why you check the oil often, even with 30 weight. i've got a habit about checking the oil everytime before its even started.

 

[fackelbow]

quote:

---

Originally posted by blupupher:
Well, I just did my yearly oil change on my mower today and did a flush with 1/2 qt of some regular dino I had laying around. First time I have ever done a flush on it, and the oil came out just about as bad as the oil that was in there to start with after running it for 10 minutes. I filled it with 10w-40 Valvoline MaxLife I had just to see how it does. I was thinking of maybe changing it again after my next mow just to see what it looks like.
This is a (I am guessing here) a B&S walk behind push mower, some generic mower that I got from my dad about 8 yrs ago and he had about 10 years before that. I keep telling myself I am going to buy a new mower "next year" but this thing keeps running. I have had to replace the blade, the fuel tank, the pull cord, throttle cable, and need to replace the auto stop cable. Burns just a bit of oil on initial start, just a few puffs of blue smoke. It has been getting harder to start the last 2 years, but I need to replace the plug. I replace the filter every year, but the plug I just pull and sand the electrodes with sandpaper. I guess not too bad for a mower that sees about 30 1.5 hr mows a year for the past 17 or so years.

Well, I guess I really don't have a point or question, so I will stop babbling. Thanks for reading.

---

 

[fackelbow]

Awesome... I was out riding my minibike a couple of years ago and teasing all the kids with out, and racing and fixing for the kids with.
My neibor was setting a Sears Eager 1 front drive mower out to the street. I had not seen it last time around the block and his back was turned as he walked back up his driveway.
I asked him what he was doing, he said getting rid of that thing.
Sure, you can have it. That was all I needed.
I fixed the power drive cable, cleaned it up, and put on some new drive wheels.

I had watched him hand push that power mower for one year and had in the mean time offered to fix it for him for 2 hours labor at 40.$ per hour, plus retail on the parts. He bought a 6.5 Sears big rear wheel power front instead.
Whithin a week My Wife was out mowing the lawn as he spyed what looked like a new mower cleaned and waxed, traversing my front lawn. Nothing wrong with that mower, just had been let go.
I ran it for 5 years then lended it to a guy who's broke down, I had many, and just gave it to him. It needed some new drive wheels, but other than that was still running like a champ.

 

[theguru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Gary in Sandy Eggo:
Are they recommending multi-grade oils in lawnmower engines these days?

---

Not dino, but synthetic yes. Or stick with the straight 30. The multigrade dinos just shear too much in a mower.

I use Motul 300v 5w30 racing oil in mine.

 

[Tremo]

I change the oil in my mower once a year. Last time I filled it with Delo 400 15w40. I also change the sparkplug every other year. The thing is now 8 years old and it usually starts on the first pull, and doesn't smoke. Engine is a 6.75 HP Tecumseh.

 

[adamrc]

I also change my oil once a year in my Kohler 26 HP V-twin engine. I use Delo 400 15w40 and it runs great and starts up instantly with no smoke.