The application is a garage door made out of two layers of plywood. Some areas will be bare wood after scraping and other areas will be the existing oil based paint. Obviously I need to prep the surface first by sanding and blending the painted areas into the bare areas. The garage door frame is made out of redwood 2 x 6s that are in the same condition. Some of the grain structure of the 2 x 6s have spread apart towards the bottom of the boards near the concrete garage floor. I need to fill in those gaps with something. Haven't quite decided on what to do about that, but I'll be priming before pasting and filling. Your recommendations on an exterior wood primer ?
Oil Based Primer vs Water Based Primer
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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I use an oil base primer outside but it's mostly new wood.
I would fill cracks then sand and prime.
I would fill cracks then sand and prime.
Fill the gaps with DAP Plastic wood. I would probably use oil based paint and primer.
I've had the misfortune to have to deal with a lot of rotting wood and peeling paint. 20 years ago I was a strong believer in oil based paint. Now I'm a strong believer in latex paint. I think they are a lot better today.
That said, in New England at least, if it gets very wet every time it rains, no paint is going to last very long. And strong sun will also kill paint. Stain is better. Anything that's been filled has to be kept dry or it's not going to hold up very long. Try to keep the water off the wood. Flash everything you possibly can and paint the flashing. I just flashed the fascia on my entire house. Painted it white and you can't even tell that there's flashing on there.
I'm sure others have different experiences. And other locations may be entirely different. That's what I've found.
That said, in New England at least, if it gets very wet every time it rains, no paint is going to last very long. And strong sun will also kill paint. Stain is better. Anything that's been filled has to be kept dry or it's not going to hold up very long. Try to keep the water off the wood. Flash everything you possibly can and paint the flashing. I just flashed the fascia on my entire house. Painted it white and you can't even tell that there's flashing on there.
I'm sure others have different experiences. And other locations may be entirely different. That's what I've found.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Your recommendations on an exterior wood primer ?
Use the same brand as the top-coat paint, thus ensuring capatability.
Priming is done AFTER "pasting & filling".
Your recommendations on an exterior wood primer ?
Use the same brand as the top-coat paint, thus ensuring capatability.
Priming is done AFTER "pasting & filling".
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Priming is done AFTER "pasting & filling".
That's what I used to think before I started reading ContractorTalk. What they're saying is that if you fill first before priming, the wood will absorb the filler and create a dent.
"Prime, putty, sand, wipe (the wood), caulk, paint. I have puttied and caulked before painting with no problems but its not the right way to go about it. On a side note I love the zinser coverstain for interior work, it dries super fast and sands nicely."
LINK
Priming is done AFTER "pasting & filling".
That's what I used to think before I started reading ContractorTalk. What they're saying is that if you fill first before priming, the wood will absorb the filler and create a dent.
"Prime, putty, sand, wipe (the wood), caulk, paint. I have puttied and caulked before painting with no problems but its not the right way to go about it. On a side note I love the zinser coverstain for interior work, it dries super fast and sands nicely."
LINK
I'd get everything prepped, sanded, and clean. I'd spot prime before I did any caulking and filling, sand the filler, make sure it is dust free, and spot prime it again after the caulking or filling. I like to create a sandwich between raw wood, and the caulking or filler. Raw wood often draws the moisture out of the caulking and fillers too fast causing cracking and failure down the road. A good primer doesn't allow the wood to draw the moisture out of the filler. I'd change the oil base finish paint that's on there over to a latex finish. That would involve priming everything in an oil base exterior primer like B Moore Fresh Start Oil Primer. Allow it to thoroughly dry then top coat with exterior latex paint. Oil finish paints don't retain color well, lose their sheen fast, and whites yellow fast, thanks to the VOC laws and the reformulation of oil base paints several years ago.
Be patient when working with oil primer and make certain it is 100% dry before applying fillers, caulking, or a top coat.
Be patient when working with oil primer and make certain it is 100% dry before applying fillers, caulking, or a top coat.
Hey thanks demarpaint !
Do you have any recommendations as far as sandpaper grits go ? Right now the garage door has raised up grain and has raised the paint up with it. 150 grit is not even making a dent in it. I'm using a Porter-Cable #330 1/4 sheet finish sander. And which grit do you use on the primer before the finish coat ?
Do you have any recommendations as far as sandpaper grits go ? Right now the garage door has raised up grain and has raised the paint up with it. 150 grit is not even making a dent in it. I'm using a Porter-Cable #330 1/4 sheet finish sander. And which grit do you use on the primer before the finish coat ?
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Priming is done AFTER "pasting & filling".
That's what I used to think before I started reading ContractorTalk. What they're saying is that if you fill first before priming, the wood will absorb the filler and create a dent.
"Prime, putty, sand, wipe (the wood), caulk, paint. I have puttied and caulked before painting with no problems but its not the right way to go about it. On a side note I love the zinser coverstain for interior work, it dries super fast and sands nicely."
LINK
You can prime first and should on bare/sanded/scraped wood. Also to seal over other finishes, etc. However you also need to spot prime after any filling & caulk BEFORE the top coat goes on.
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Priming is done AFTER "pasting & filling".
That's what I used to think before I started reading ContractorTalk. What they're saying is that if you fill first before priming, the wood will absorb the filler and create a dent.
"Prime, putty, sand, wipe (the wood), caulk, paint. I have puttied and caulked before painting with no problems but its not the right way to go about it. On a side note I love the zinser coverstain for interior work, it dries super fast and sands nicely."
LINK
You can prime first and should on bare/sanded/scraped wood. Also to seal over other finishes, etc. However you also need to spot prime after any filling & caulk BEFORE the top coat goes on.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Priming is done AFTER "pasting & filling".
That's what I used to think before I started reading ContractorTalk. What they're saying is that if you fill first before priming, the wood will absorb the filler and create a dent.
"Prime, putty, sand, wipe (the wood), caulk, paint. I have puttied and caulked before painting with no problems but its not the right way to go about it. On a side note I love the zinser coverstain for interior work, it dries super fast and sands nicely."
LINK
Based on experience landlording... It's job-specific. Try to visualize how each coat of putty/primer/paint is going to adhere to the base material, knowing air gaps or voids causes zero adhesion.
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Priming is done AFTER "pasting & filling".
That's what I used to think before I started reading ContractorTalk. What they're saying is that if you fill first before priming, the wood will absorb the filler and create a dent.
"Prime, putty, sand, wipe (the wood), caulk, paint. I have puttied and caulked before painting with no problems but its not the right way to go about it. On a side note I love the zinser coverstain for interior work, it dries super fast and sands nicely."
LINK
Based on experience landlording... It's job-specific. Try to visualize how each coat of putty/primer/paint is going to adhere to the base material, knowing air gaps or voids causes zero adhesion.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Hey thanks demarpaint !
Do you have any recommendations as far as sandpaper grits go ? Right now the garage door has raised up grain and has raised the paint up with it. 150 grit is not even making a dent in it. I'm using a Porter-Cable #330 1/4 sheet finish sander. And which grit do you use on the primer before the finish coat ?
You could try 120 or 80 for more of a cut. The lower the number the more aggressive the paper, you can work down from there. I have a feeling 80 should be fine. Once you're done you might have to go back to the 150 or even higher to get it nicely finished depending on how the surface looks and feels, and how particular you are.
Hey thanks demarpaint !
Do you have any recommendations as far as sandpaper grits go ? Right now the garage door has raised up grain and has raised the paint up with it. 150 grit is not even making a dent in it. I'm using a Porter-Cable #330 1/4 sheet finish sander. And which grit do you use on the primer before the finish coat ?
You could try 120 or 80 for more of a cut. The lower the number the more aggressive the paper, you can work down from there. I have a feeling 80 should be fine. Once you're done you might have to go back to the 150 or even higher to get it nicely finished depending on how the surface looks and feels, and how particular you are.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Raw wood often draws the moisture out of the caulking and fillers too fast causing cracking and failure down the road. A good primer doesn't allow the wood to draw the moisture out of the filler.
Very interesting; never thought of that. I've had horrible luck with a latex caulk on my siding; every year it splits and comes off. Silicon holds up better, but I have to make sure to buy the high(er) dollar stuff so it'll take paint.
Raw wood often draws the moisture out of the caulking and fillers too fast causing cracking and failure down the road. A good primer doesn't allow the wood to draw the moisture out of the filler.
Very interesting; never thought of that. I've had horrible luck with a latex caulk on my siding; every year it splits and comes off. Silicon holds up better, but I have to make sure to buy the high(er) dollar stuff so it'll take paint.
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Raw wood often draws the moisture out of the caulking and fillers too fast causing cracking and failure down the road. A good primer doesn't allow the wood to draw the moisture out of the filler.
Very interesting; never thought of that. I've had horrible luck with a latex caulk on my siding; every year it splits and comes off. Silicon holds up better, but I have to make sure to buy the high(er) dollar stuff so it'll take paint.
You're not the only person to have those problems, try the primer first before you caulk if you're caulking onto raw wood, or drywall.
Silicone caulking is good, but it must say it can be painted on the label. If it doesn't paint will crawl off of it, and the silicone can leach into flat paints making painting very difficult even after the caulking have been removed. A lot of window installers use it making our job much more difficult. I typically tell my customers [if I have a chance] to tell their GC not to do any interior caulking around new window installations. The job comes out better and I reduce the odds of having to clean up after they use the wrong silicone caulking.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Raw wood often draws the moisture out of the caulking and fillers too fast causing cracking and failure down the road. A good primer doesn't allow the wood to draw the moisture out of the filler.
Very interesting; never thought of that. I've had horrible luck with a latex caulk on my siding; every year it splits and comes off. Silicon holds up better, but I have to make sure to buy the high(er) dollar stuff so it'll take paint.
You're not the only person to have those problems, try the primer first before you caulk if you're caulking onto raw wood, or drywall.
Silicone caulking is good, but it must say it can be painted on the label. If it doesn't paint will crawl off of it, and the silicone can leach into flat paints making painting very difficult even after the caulking have been removed. A lot of window installers use it making our job much more difficult. I typically tell my customers [if I have a chance] to tell their GC not to do any interior caulking around new window installations. The job comes out better and I reduce the odds of having to clean up after they use the wrong silicone caulking.
Yeah, I learned that one the hard way. Got about half of it replaced with paintable silicon, and did a hack of skimming over the rest with latex caulk (which doesn't work).
Another year or two I'll probably peel out the wherever paint didn't take and redo.
Another year or two I'll probably peel out the wherever paint didn't take and redo.
Me, I would sand & scrape the heck out of it, fill any cracks and apply two coats of a quality latex primer (Benjamin moore, Sherwin, etc.) before a quality latex top coat, or two.
But then again I don't do everything by the book.
But then again I don't do everything by the book.
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