YOUR WARRANTY ...what is the real chance of a warranty denial b/c of your oil? Examples?

You assume I don't know anything about risk analysis? I do it on a daily basis.
You then go on to list secondary and tertiary risks associated to the engine failure.

And I didnt say "do nothing". You said "the floods of actions". What floods of actions? Maybe you meant a few rare cases where oil was suspect?

If the engine has a rev limiter and I am constantly going to redline and the ECU records that, when the engine dies is it my fault?

According to Porsche it is.

Sorry, just couldn't resist. Porsche and their rpm zone incursion numbers.
 
I saw evidence of Quaker State failing first hand as well in that time period. With that said, I’m sure it’s a great oil and that is all behind them now. Nevertheless, I haven’t used it.

Shell is Shell. Doesn't matter what name they stamp on the can. I may be susceptible to marketing but not to that extreme.

QS payed the price, they no longer exist as a company.
 
My wife worked at a BMW, VW and Chevy dealership for 35 yrs only once was a warranty issue denied on an engine ..... the owner never changed his oil oil and he showed receipts. VW had the oil tested and it showed all the properties were depleted. If you change the oil with whatever you use the dealership knows you changed it. They will not test it or go and call the mfg in unless your pulling a shady deal. My wife even said, if it was an engine issue, they check to see first if there is oil in the car, next check valves to see if it’s tar. They don’t check to see what viscosity you use or brand.
 
Interesting. Was that a usage/burning issue or a mechanical failure?
If you could reveal the Car model and Engine - that would be cool.
About 15 years ago at a different company the secretary's son bought a new Excel. He drove the wheels off it, and added oil when the light came on. When it suffered a engine seizure at about 30k miles they were so upset the warranty was denied.

As a side note, I checked the secretarys car, it was 3 quarts low and very very black. She was not educated about cars in any way. I put in my spare quart and sent her to quickly lube place.

Her son bought a BMW for 2K to impress the ladies. It started having issues right away. But it was a BMW and it was cheap he said. Those buy here places hire collection agency that are very aggressive.

Rod
 
There are motor oils on retail shelves that can cause serious damage to car engines. PQIA has identified about three dozen different brands of bad oil sold across numerous states, including some with a KV100 as low as 2.3 cSt, many with no additives and high silicon levels, and some containing used oil. Most of these brands claim their oils to be premium quality on the labels, commonly misstate the viscosity grade, and lure consumers in low income areas with low prices.

The companies making such products would not be blending, packaging, and distributing the oils, not to mention taking the risk, if they were not selling thousands of gallons, meaning it is quite possible that there are tens of thousands of engines in the USA containing this garbage. It would certainly behove OEM shops doing warranty repairs to do some kind of check on the oil quality, and these bad oils would show up very readily in a simple $30 oil analysis.
 
It gets posted quite a bit in response to anyone thinking of running a non-approved oil for their car that is still under warranty. What are some documented real-world examples where a dealer/manufacturer denied a warranty claim related to the powertrain b/c someone didn't have the right oil? I suppose they would have to actually get the oil tested and compare the data to known data of approved oils and I also suppose that they will ask for your DIY oil change records (or non-dealer if you pay someone to do it) and if those show you used something you shouldn't have, they have that evidence. The new VW508.00 oil issue comes to mind as it's got a green color which would help ID it but viscosity testing would definitively show if you were using say a 5W40 vs. the 0W20. Major/catastrophic engine failure while under warranty related to lubrication should be v. rare so this instance has an incredibly small dataset to start with.

Well when that oil is changed out after 5000 to7500 I have a very strong feeling it isn't green anymore. The bad Stealerships are the only ones that are going to do that. Plan old Mobil 1 in your 5w40 shouldn't make a difference in the world.
 
I have used the Liquimoly Molygen - it's green. The color is gone after about 1-2K miles from what I can tell.
 
I do not think the visible dye is used for post mortem (read: FMEA)
Does not VAG approved oil fluoresce under black light? Also, I have read there are likely other "invisible" markers in the oil.

Like I've written many times, my VW dealer put the the "incorrect weight, improper approval" oil in for my scheduled service.
I think they were trying to draw down the large tank of 5W40 they had purchased and my little 1.4 tsi lease was an easy target.
cost me big money to get this changed out. NO more VW's or purchases from this dealer for me!
 
I do not think the visible dye is used for post mortem (read: FMEA)
Does not VAG approved oil fluoresce under black light? Also, I have read there are likely other "invisible" markers in the oil.

Like I've written many times, my VW dealer put the the "incorrect weight, improper approval" oil in for my scheduled service.
I think they were trying to draw down the large tank of 5W40 they had purchased and my little 1.4 tsi lease was an easy target.
cost me big money to get this changed out. NO more VW's or purchases from this dealer for me!
Why did this cost you "big money"? At worst cost of an oil change and the dealer should have done it for free because they goofed. This is a reason to not buy a VW?
 
I think the concern is there is actually oil in the sump, as most people can barely follow a nagging dummy light. I'd be willing to bet the dip stick is one of the first things checked if an engine failed. All modern engines can probably run up to a w40 with no issues.
 
When I read about that dye in the GTI 0w20 oil I remembered why I never bought a VW again after my 2006 lemon. I'm not getting conned into using their pricey oil to maintain my warranty. That kind of crap should be illegal.
 
When I read about that dye in the GTI 0w20 oil I remembered why I never bought a VW again after my 2006 lemon. I'm not getting conned into using their pricey oil to maintain my warranty. That kind of crap should be illegal.
You can use any brand you like as long as it jas the 508 approval. But the dye is part of it so whether VW or Liquimoly...it's green. And aren't other newer lighter weight oils being specd by manufacturers (0W16 - Toyota?) also on the pricey side vs. say M1 5W30?
 
Why did this cost you "big money"? At worst cost of an oil change and the dealer should have done it for free because they goofed. This is a reason to not buy a VW?
Well they didn't offer to pay, as they continually lied about the oil they put in. And The Service writer had to do the oil change with oil I brought because the techs were being "Richards" about it and wouldn't do it. Smacks of GM warranty work refusal excuses and hyundai incompetence and carelessness. Ill walk away from that treatment. Plus they car is a snap together fall apart and poor handler. I'm Glad about the 2 year lease which is done in a couple months!
 
You can use any brand you like as long as it jas the 508 approval. But the dye is part of it so whether VW or Liquimoly...it's green. And aren't other newer lighter weight oils being specd by manufacturers (0W16 - Toyota?) also on the pricey side vs. say M1 5W30?
Given 508 00 is pretty much the ILSAC GF5 spec with Low HTHS, M1 EP or EDGE 20 or better 30 grade gold bottle WILL do fine at a med life interval (~5 - 7k mi) If not, what is wrong with VAG engine design and metallurgy that makes it susceptible to exploding with the wrong oil? - unlike all the other tens of designs that are fine?
 
I never have or know anyone who has had a warranty claim denied on an engine because of the oil used.

After buying my Mustang new, I only used the Motorcraft 5W-20 oil and correct Motorcraft oil filter because of the BS I had to deal with, with Ford on some other warranty work where they blamed me for the problems. I decided it wasn't worth it to me to use anything else during the warranty period in case an issue arose with the engine.

It's decent oil and easy to get at Walmart and the price is not bad so I didn't have a problem using it. These days I still use it out of warranty since I don't care as much about trying to find the best oil out there. I've used all kinds of brands of oils over the years and have never had an engine problem.
 
About 1975 I had a part time job doing brakes, mufflers, oil changes and tires. Local businessman brought in his 2 year old mercury cougar for an oil change, as it was time to turn it in on the lease. Car sill looked new

Up on the lift, plug out, no oil. Put plug back in, lower, check dipsick, blackest oil ever. Back up, pull out drain, sick in screwdriver, and great globs of sludge came out, along with the oil. The gasket on the filter was stuck, had to use the chain type filter tool. It was a motocraft filter.

New filter, new oil, turn in on lease. I saw that car driving around town for years after. AFAIK never had engine replaced.



Rod
 
Given 508 00 is pretty much the ILSAC GF5 spec with Low HTHS, M1 EP or EDGE 20 or better 30 grade gold bottle WILL do fine at a med life interval (~5 - 7k mi) If not, what is wrong with VAG engine design and metallurgy that makes it susceptible to exploding with the wrong oil? - unlike all the other tens of designs that are fine?
You can always use whatever you want, but as the post is about, what is the real risk of warranty drama? **** near zero (to even have the issue that caused VW to want to ask for oil info anyway). I guess I just don't see the drama, shopdap.com has the OE oil kit for $56. I'm sure FCP Euro has a Liquimoly kit that is more but hen you get lifetime replacement so $21 shipping the USPS larger flat-rate box back to return the used stuff.
 
You can always use whatever you want, but as the post is about, what is the real risk of warranty drama? **** near zero (to even have the issue that caused VW to want to ask for oil info anyway). I guess I just don't see the drama, shopdap.com has the OE oil kit for $56. I'm sure FCP Euro has a Liquimoly kit that is more but hen you get lifetime replacement so $21 shipping the USPS larger flat-rate box back to return the used stuff.

Have money to buy a new VW/Audi but then complain about the extra $25 for an oil change even though they really only have to do it half as often as most other vehicles.

More at 11.
 
You can use any brand you like as long as it jas the 508 approval. But the dye is part of it so whether VW or Liquimoly...it's green. And aren't other newer lighter weight oils being specd by manufacturers (0W16 - Toyota?) also on the pricey side vs. say M1 5W30?
Maybe its just me but I don't like how euro auto manufacturers do business by specing oil for their vehicles. Some how Japanese auto manufacturers can produce reliable cars without coming out with a thousand different obscure oil specs that the car must use. In contrast you must use a relatively new obscure oil with a freaking warranty check dye made by a couple euro oil companies. They make fun cars but that crap is ridiculous.

0w16 is made by a plethora of manufactuers. And guess what if my gf camry feels like it i can use 0w20, no dye required.
 
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