Not Reporting Engine Codes

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Originally Posted By: borgward
Who makes a a real scan tool?


SnapOn makes the VCM II that Ford uses. Vetronix/Bosch write the software.

FWIW we hardly ever replace throttle pedals on gas engines. I might sell one for every 200-300 throttle bodies I sell and even then most people that have bought them try to return them because it didn't fix the problem. Diesels are another story altogether though.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Many on the market but for one with bidirectional capabilities you are in the $1000 and up range, there are a few cheaper ones but I am not familiar with them. Other posters may have some good suggestions.
This one looks interesting for the money but I would have to research it.

https://automotiveequipmentspecialists.c...AiABEgIwQfD_BwE


Off topic but I took a class, Advanced Automotive Electronics, taught by a guy that wrote Ford IDS software for Vetronix now Bosch Diagnostics when I was in the automotive program at SBCC. The guy was seriously smart and his hobby was making mil-spec wiring harnesses for trophy trucks. All 24k gold wiring with twist lock connectors.

Now that I work at the dealer he will come in and borrow vehicles to run test on for their aftermarket offerings and in return leave the guys in the shop with upgrades for their personal scan tools. We also got to use the prototype bluetooth IDS before it was released.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Sounds like an interesting project, are these gold plated wires he makes into a harness?


Yes, most of the trophy trucks run similar. They are $20,000-$25,000 each which on a trophy truck is a drop in the bucket. I read an article in either Race Tech or Racecar Engineering years ago showing F1 harnesses and they were similar.
 
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That is something else.
crazy2.gif
 
I finally got a Fire 8 tablet and downloaded Scantool for the OBDLink LX II Bluetooth Scantool. It displayed

B1029-11 Accelerator Pedal Sensor

P2127-00 Throttle/Pedal Sensor/Switch E circuit Low Input

P2126-00 Throttle/Pedal Sensor/Switch E circuit Range/Performanceg

P2138-00 Throttle/Pedal Sensor/Switch D/E Voltage Correlation

I do not think there is anything wrong with the throttle body or the pedal. They would not repair themselves just because I turned the car off, Cleared the warning and then restarting. I suspect the problem is in the wiring harness where other parts of the harness plug together. The only time I get the warning is when the weather goes from drought conditions to wet conditions and/or sever temperature changes.

I will upgrade to a better scanner after I learn more about using my scanner.
 
Originally Posted by borgward
Whats cheap? I bought ScanTool 427201 OBDLink LX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows from Amazon. $62.99. It's not one of the $10 or $12 ones. Any suggestions. The usual culprit is the throttle position sensor in the throttle body. Usually it is a matter of moisture getting in and corroding the contacts.The Fiesta is the only ford that the sensor is not replaceable. You have to buy a new throttle body for $600.

The funny thing is that I can turn the ignition off and then restart and the wrench icon, "Engine Malfunction Service Now" message, and the symptom all disappear. That's like if you had a fever, took you temperature, removed the thermometer and all of a sudden you have no fever.

I have read that there are Ford proprietary codes. What are proprietary codes? are they the OBDII engine malfunction codes? What do you need to read them?


$60 bucks is cheap, $200 bucks is also cheap. You just won't get any good amount of functionality until you spend $400+. I that price point you will get enough capibility to read all codes including manufacterer specific and do a few bidirectional tests and read most live data parameters. In other words, you can do more troubleshooting. A simple code reader, to me, is really worthless. You can get a nice innova scanner that will read all modules and has excellent live data and can reset service lights and oil change lights. I have OEM scanners that cost thousands and will do everything but rely on the innova pro because its smaller and works fast. I paid $350 for it....and harbor frieght has the same one under thier Zurick brand name for coupon price of like $329 or so. The few hundred you spend will pay for itself if you do your own work!!
 
First thing I'd do before replacing or further troubleshooting it is hard reset EVERYTHING. Get any applicable radio security code you may need, then pull a battery cable and let it sit for a bit.
 
Originally Posted by Skippy722
First thing I'd do before replacing or further troubleshooting it is hard reset EVERYTHING.


Originally Posted by Skippy722
radio security code


What's that?

Originally Posted by Skippy722
pull a battery cable and let it sit for a bit.


The battery went dead during 20F weather. Did not start the car for several days. Finally removed the battery and took it to exchange for a new one at the dealer the next town away. Does that count as a "hard reset"?

Anybody know where the wiring harness junctions are relative to the pedal and throttle pedal on the 2003 Fiesta hatch SE? I googled those codes and saw wiring harness problems mentioned on a variety of cars. This Fiesta was manufactured in Mexico.
 
I would first try letting idle for 2 hrs and if that doesn't work time for dealer. Your battery crapped out and lost programming so computer needs reprogrammed. Thank Ford for this. Just check out Fiesta battery replacement problems.
 
What needs programming? The Battery? The computer? What symptoms would indicate anything needs to be programmed. I googled a few "Fiesta battery replacement problems" I have none of the problems cited. Most of the problems were on cars with the dual clutch transmissions. I have a 5 speed manual. Cold start voltage, battery voltage and charging voltage are all good.

Will disconnecting the battery for a hard reset mean that I need to get the dealer to reprogram things?
 
Originally Posted by borgward
Originally Posted by Skippy722
First thing I'd do before replacing or further troubleshooting it is hard reset EVERYTHING.


Originally Posted by Skippy722
radio security code


What's that?

Originally Posted by Skippy722
pull a battery cable and let it sit for a bit.


The battery went dead during 20F weather. Did not start the car for several days. Finally removed the battery and took it to exchange for a new one at the dealer the next town away. Does that count as a "hard reset"?

Anybody know where the wiring harness junctions are relative to the pedal and throttle pedal on the 2003 Fiesta hatch SE? I googled those codes and saw wiring harness problems mentioned on a variety of cars. This Fiesta was manufactured in Mexico.


Some radios need a code after losing power, anti theft feature. Sounds like yours doesn't, so you're good. And yes that counts as a reset.
 
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