Noob question re: Motul Specific LL01-FE 0W-30 for non-BMW

Those oils have specific chemistry as they are approved by VW.
They are what they are bcs. VW requirements.
And they are only going to check if the engine is damaged by the oil which would be due to VW’s prohibition in using 508 00 oil in engines that do not list it as acceptable. I.E. the HT/HS was too low and caused damage.

We see people on here make the argument that the situation is reversed, that the engine somehow “needs” 508 00 for proper operation, which is not what VW said nor is it correct.
 
And they are only going to check if the engine is damaged by the oil which would be due to VW’s prohibition in using 508 00 oil in engines that do not list it as acceptable. I.E. the HT/HS was too low and caused damage.

We see people on here make the argument that the situation is reversed, that the engine somehow “needs” 508 00 for proper operation, which is not what VW said nor is it correct.
Well, yes, and no simple UOA can show that.
However, in many countries, during warranty, these companies require maintenance at service centers. It has to be emphasized that in the US, consumers are better protected and have more options.
 
I intend to do a post break-in oil change, and the manual recommends 0W-20 or 5W-30 (the former for fuel efficiency and the latter for greater high temp protection). I'll probably run the thinner oil in the winter and the thicker oil in the summer, as I will be tracking this car.

Why not just have year round protection? Shear is what is the concern with these engines, 24 PSI of boost occurs when its 5F or 95F, so personally I like having added buffer, and the 3.5+ HTHS of the ESP is a good start. 98% of the lower 48 doesn't need a 0w to begin with, and quality base stocks yields many a 0w30 on par or better then a 5w30 if you must have a leading 0.

All my cars for the past ten years have been BMWs so I still have two fresh 5L bottles of Motul Specific LL01-FE 0W-30 oil, and I want to ask you wise folk if it would be a terrible idea to use this oil for the break in change, and then switch to the Honda-spec oil at the first official drain interval and beyond. I'm less concerned about warranty than i am about engine protection and performance.

I await the flames. :)
-Ash

I have posted a few UOA (and you can read Civic Type R ones as well), and while not the 1.5LT, the 2.0 also suffers from fuel dilution. To me that is the primary reason to run something > 20 grade. Honda also has a pretty long OLM, ranging from 9-11K, where the bulk 20g used by dealers will be a 16g or worse at that time. Will the engine go boom? nope. But the wear protection has decreased for sure.

the LL01-FE you have will be peachy, after its done you can move to oil that cost 1/2 that if you want to. If spending LL01-FE money, I would prefer Amsoil SS or HPL myself, but for the lower drain intervals I personally do, M1 ESP is the winner so far.
 
Why not just have year round protection? Shear is what is the concern with these engines, 24 PSI of boost occurs when its 5F or 95F, so personally I like having added buffer, and the 3.5+ HTHS of the ESP is a good start. 98% of the lower 48 doesn't need a 0w to begin with, and quality base stocks yields many a 0w30 on par or better then a 5w30 if you must have a leading 0.



I have posted a few UOA (and you can read Civic Type R ones as well), and while not the 1.5LT, the 2.0 also suffers from fuel dilution. To me that is the primary reason to run something > 20 grade. Honda also has a pretty long OLM, ranging from 9-11K, where the bulk 20g used by dealers will be a 16g or worse at that time. Will the engine go boom? nope. But the wear protection has decreased for sure.

the LL01-FE you have will be peachy, after its done you can move to oil that cost 1/2 that if you want to. If spending LL01-FE money, I would prefer Amsoil SS or HPL myself, but for the lower drain intervals I personally do, M1 ESP is the winner so far.
Thanks! I just learned about HPL here. Which version would be the right one for my application (in 0W-30 weight)?
 
and ketjenlube was blue or green because....? it's not the natural colour.
I really don’t understand what that has to do with VW508.00 requirement?
Once Ketjenlube was eliminated oil was not green.
How about Castrol had internal reasons for that? Or you think they looked at Crystal ball what will happen with VW508.00 20yrs later so they painted green?
 
I really don’t understand what that has to do with VW508.00 requirement?
Once Ketjenlube was eliminated oil was not green.
How about Castrol had internal reasons for that? Or you think they looked at Crystal ball what will happen with VW508.00 20yrs later so they painted green?

Magnatec professional OE 5W-40 was always green, probably never had Ketjenlube. the presence of dye proves nothing in itself.
 
then you are actually agreeing with me. The presence of dye doesn't prove anything other than dye was present.
Dye is required. A specific chemical composition.
I am not sure what is your point? Whether 5W40 has it is absolutely irrelevant for VW508.00 requirements.
ALL VW508.00 oils must have that specific dye, Castrol, Mobil1, it doesn’t matter, if they are approved.
 
Thanks! I just learned about HPL here. Which version would be the right one for my application (in 0W-30 weight)?

Lot of good threads exist on HPL with input from other posters more qualified to discuss the the finer points of the HPL product line (PCMO vs Euro) than myself. From my reading, the short answer is any, they are all good base stocks, just different blends for applications :) Euro has the 0w30 you ask about (PCMO is 5/30) however the No VII 5/30 always looked tasty to me.
 
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