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It's still 30 weight oil.
I use 0w-30 oil (see signature below) in my 2 vehicles and save what's left over for my Honda lawn mower. Been doing it for a long time and the mower is doing fine after 10 years with a half acre to cut. I change the oil once a year.
I use 0w-30 oil (see signature below) in my 2 vehicles and save what's left over for my Honda lawn mower. Been doing it for a long time and the mower is doing fine after 10 years with a half acre to cut. I change the oil once a year.
There's a specific Lawn Mower and Small Engine forum, but to answer your question: yes, it's fine.
Not at all sure about that, have lots of experience of no increase in oil consumption. This may be true if there are sensitive vii in the add pack but it seems to be a problem with older products. Do it and see for yourself if you loose oil, but a 30 is a 30 overall.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
It wont hurt it but you will have more consumption by using it. Which means you'll have to add oil more often.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
It wont hurt it but you will have more consumption by using it. Which means you'll have to add oil more often.
My Honda mower does not burn oil at all and I'm using a 0w-30 synthetic. It gets run hard and long and it's doing great.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
My Honda mower does not burn oil at all and I'm using a 0w-30 synthetic. It gets run hard and long and it's doing great.
I had a half-bottle of Castrol 0w-30, so I used it in my mower's B&S 675 last summer. No problems.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
It wont hurt it but you will have more consumption by using it. Which means you'll have to add oil more often.
This... makes no sense.
My Honda mower does not burn oil at all and I'm using a 0w-30 synthetic. It gets run hard and long and it's doing great.
I had a half-bottle of Castrol 0w-30, so I used it in my mower's B&S 675 last summer. No problems.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
It wont hurt it but you will have more consumption by using it. Which means you'll have to add oil more often.
This... makes no sense.
Today I asked a local landscaper about his experience with 0w-30 oil for his 4-cycle equipment. He purchased a couple of 55 gallon drums of 0w-30 Mobil 1 at a warehouse salvage auction. He said it has worked so well he's going to purchase more of the same. He said there has been no problem with oil consumption and in fact spark plugs are lasting longer and UOA's on some of the more expensive equipment showed less wear metals. Temperatures on a couple of water pumps were lower. The same with his trencher which gets really run hard. He stated that of every important measure to him that the 0w-30 was better than the previous HD30 weight oil.
From B&S
SAE30 - above 40 degrees and higher - is good for all purpose use above 40 degrees.
10w30 - 0-100 degrees - is better for varying temperatures conditions. This grade of oil improves cold starting, but may increase oil consumption at 80 degrees or higher. Check oil level frequently at higher temperatures.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/s...w-to-change-oil
SAE30 - above 40 degrees and higher - is good for all purpose use above 40 degrees.
10w30 - 0-100 degrees - is better for varying temperatures conditions. This grade of oil improves cold starting, but may increase oil consumption at 80 degrees or higher. Check oil level frequently at higher temperatures.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/s...w-to-change-oil
Are they suggesting that 10w-30 is going to shear down and then burn off? That seems a stretch. Perhaps in 1970.
I've had a few B&S small engines over the years, and I recall the owner's manual stating that using 10W-30 may increase oil consumption compared to SAE 30. I have only used 10W-30 and whatever the increase in oil consumption it's definitely nothing to worry about.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
It wont hurt it but you will have more consumption by using it. Which means you'll have to add oil more often.
The funny part of this discussion... is all that responded to this statement as complete B.S. is using 0w30 synthetic. And the O.P. was asking about 10w30 conventional.
It wont hurt it but you will have more consumption by using it. Which means you'll have to add oil more often.
The funny part of this discussion... is all that responded to this statement as complete B.S. is using 0w30 synthetic. And the O.P. was asking about 10w30 conventional.
I think the point is that 0w-30 or 10w-30 or 5w30 is still 30 weight oil, synthetic or conventional. Multi grade oil might just be better in every way than single weight oil. And although synthetic oil might be better it may also not be necessary in many applications.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
I think the point is that 0w-30 or 10w-30 or 5w30 is still 30 weight oil, synthetic or conventional. Multi grade oil might just be better in every way than single weight oil. And although synthetic oil might be better it may also not be necessary in many applications.
Nah, that's exactly the reason that HTHS was brought into the J300 specs...a "30" isn't always a "30"
A "straight" 20 will have an HTHS of around 2.9, a "straight" 30 will have an HTHS of around 3.5...back in the days when these engines were being designed, a 20 and a 30 were these non VIIed straight minerals.
Due to failures that occurred due to the VIIed oils not representing their graded viscosity under actual operational condition, increasing wear and consumption, the SAE introduced High Shear rate minimums into the grades.
The min for a multigrade 30 was what was typical of a straight 20. The min of a (15W)40 was about that of a straight 30 HDMO...get my drift ?
Have run everything in my Briggs, Syntec 0W30 (HTHS min 3.5), SAE 30s, quite a number of them, 15W40s...last winter 5W20 (grass didn't stop growing, so I ran it...hated the double tap big end knock starting hot)...
Currently running 10W30 A3/B4 (HTHS min 3.5), as I feel that it best represents the designers intent of and SAE30 operational viscosity, while giving me multigrade benefits cold...would do 5W30 A3/B4 as well, as I will have some after doing the cars.
So a "30" isn't always a "30", many of the mineral multigrades (the wider the spread in a dino, as an example) come closer to a monograde 20 when running and hot.
I think the point is that 0w-30 or 10w-30 or 5w30 is still 30 weight oil, synthetic or conventional. Multi grade oil might just be better in every way than single weight oil. And although synthetic oil might be better it may also not be necessary in many applications.
Nah, that's exactly the reason that HTHS was brought into the J300 specs...a "30" isn't always a "30"
A "straight" 20 will have an HTHS of around 2.9, a "straight" 30 will have an HTHS of around 3.5...back in the days when these engines were being designed, a 20 and a 30 were these non VIIed straight minerals.
Due to failures that occurred due to the VIIed oils not representing their graded viscosity under actual operational condition, increasing wear and consumption, the SAE introduced High Shear rate minimums into the grades.
The min for a multigrade 30 was what was typical of a straight 20. The min of a (15W)40 was about that of a straight 30 HDMO...get my drift ?
Have run everything in my Briggs, Syntec 0W30 (HTHS min 3.5), SAE 30s, quite a number of them, 15W40s...last winter 5W20 (grass didn't stop growing, so I ran it...hated the double tap big end knock starting hot)...
Currently running 10W30 A3/B4 (HTHS min 3.5), as I feel that it best represents the designers intent of and SAE30 operational viscosity, while giving me multigrade benefits cold...would do 5W30 A3/B4 as well, as I will have some after doing the cars.
So a "30" isn't always a "30", many of the mineral multigrades (the wider the spread in a dino, as an example) come closer to a monograde 20 when running and hot.
The HTHS for my 0w-30 using ASTM D4741 is 3.2 and the vis @ 100C is 11.7 and at 40C it's 69 with a viscosity index of 166.
I dont' think you'd call this a monograde 20 weight oil at operating temperature.
The current multigrade 30 weight oils are up to the job in small engines.
I dont' think you'd call this a monograde 20 weight oil at operating temperature.
The current multigrade 30 weight oils are up to the job in small engines.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The HTHS for my 0w-30 using ASTM D4741 is 3.2 and the vis @ 100C is 11.7 and at 40C it's 69 with a viscosity index of 166.
I dont' think you'd call this a monograde 20 weight oil at operating temperature.
You clearly didn't read what I posted.
Go back and try again...maybe open the other eye if it helps.
Research why HTHS was added to J300, and reconcile with my statements...I'm not dissing your 0W30 BTW...
if it helps, here's some monogrades, non VIIed, inclusive of HTHS that is inherent in the grade.
http://www.technologylubricants.com/MSDS/CITGO/PDS/C500 single visc_pds.pdf
The HTHS for my 0w-30 using ASTM D4741 is 3.2 and the vis @ 100C is 11.7 and at 40C it's 69 with a viscosity index of 166.
I dont' think you'd call this a monograde 20 weight oil at operating temperature.
You clearly didn't read what I posted.
Go back and try again...maybe open the other eye if it helps.
Research why HTHS was added to J300, and reconcile with my statements...I'm not dissing your 0W30 BTW...
if it helps, here's some monogrades, non VIIed, inclusive of HTHS that is inherent in the grade.
http://www.technologylubricants.com/MSDS/CITGO/PDS/C500 single visc_pds.pdf
Isn't a 0w-30 a 0 grade oil? That has a 30 weight viscosity at 212F? Which would confirm the possibly oil usage Briggs is stating?
A 30w will not shear down near as fast as a 0w-30 would. Remember these are air cooled motors and run a lot hotter than water cooled engine. I'd run some Rotella T-1 30w oil in it.
slomo
A 30w will not shear down near as fast as a 0w-30 would. Remember these are air cooled motors and run a lot hotter than water cooled engine. I'd run some Rotella T-1 30w oil in it.
slomo
Originally Posted By: slomo
Isn't a 0w-30 a 0 grade oil?
0w30 is a 30 grade oil with a 0 winter rating. The two numbers have nothing to do with one another, and aren't even measured on the same scale.
Isn't a 0w-30 a 0 grade oil?
0w30 is a 30 grade oil with a 0 winter rating. The two numbers have nothing to do with one another, and aren't even measured on the same scale.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The HTHS for my 0w-30 using ASTM D4741 is 3.2 and the vis @ 100C is 11.7 and at 40C it's 69 with a viscosity index of 166.
I dont' think you'd call this a monograde 20 weight oil at operating temperature.
You clearly didn't read what I posted.
Go back and try again...maybe open the other eye if it helps.
Research why HTHS was added to J300, and reconcile with my statements...I'm not dissing your 0W30 BTW...
if it helps, here's some monogrades, non VIIed, inclusive of HTHS that is inherent in the grade.
http://www.technologylubricants.com/MSDS/CITGO/PDS/C500 single visc_pds.pdf
I was only talking about my experience and that of a local landscaper using 0w-30 oil in small air cooled engines that work very hard. I'm making no attempt to promote or argue specs. Those specs are fine but no matter what they might be the oil is working and it gets changed once a year. I'm actually considering getting a UOA.
My 10 year old Honda HRC-216 gets used to mow my half acre and my neighbor's middle school aged boy uses it to cut their lawns and that of a couple of neighbor's, too.
People tell me that using a synthetic 0w-30 will kill the mower in one day's hard work but it has not happened. True, I've been through blades, height adjusters, cables, air and fuel filters but the engine is doing just fine. To be completely accurate the oil sometimes gets changed more often if there's oil left over from draining the bottles used for my 2 cars.
One of the overlooked aspects of small engine long life is the air and fuel filters and keeping the engine physically very clean, especially the cooling fins. Another thing that appears to help is running the engine at full speed and not lugging it down with too much of a load. Keeping the speed up keeps the cooling system working.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The HTHS for my 0w-30 using ASTM D4741 is 3.2 and the vis @ 100C is 11.7 and at 40C it's 69 with a viscosity index of 166.
I dont' think you'd call this a monograde 20 weight oil at operating temperature.
You clearly didn't read what I posted.
Go back and try again...maybe open the other eye if it helps.
Research why HTHS was added to J300, and reconcile with my statements...I'm not dissing your 0W30 BTW...
if it helps, here's some monogrades, non VIIed, inclusive of HTHS that is inherent in the grade.
http://www.technologylubricants.com/MSDS/CITGO/PDS/C500 single visc_pds.pdf
I was only talking about my experience and that of a local landscaper using 0w-30 oil in small air cooled engines that work very hard. I'm making no attempt to promote or argue specs. Those specs are fine but no matter what they might be the oil is working and it gets changed once a year. I'm actually considering getting a UOA.
My 10 year old Honda HRC-216 gets used to mow my half acre and my neighbor's middle school aged boy uses it to cut their lawns and that of a couple of neighbor's, too.
People tell me that using a synthetic 0w-30 will kill the mower in one day's hard work but it has not happened. True, I've been through blades, height adjusters, cables, air and fuel filters but the engine is doing just fine. To be completely accurate the oil sometimes gets changed more often if there's oil left over from draining the bottles used for my 2 cars.
One of the overlooked aspects of small engine long life is the air and fuel filters and keeping the engine physically very clean, especially the cooling fins. Another thing that appears to help is running the engine at full speed and not lugging it down with too much of a load. Keeping the speed up keeps the cooling system working.
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