No timing belt replacement schedule for 92 corolla

[M1Accord]

I just read the owner and for Schechule B, there is no timing belt change needed. The manual clearly states that timing belt replacement is only required for sever driving condition, which includes trips under 5 miles, slow speed for extremely long distance (police cruiser), and door-to-door delivery driving.

Is this for real or what?

 

[Liquid_Turbo]

That's gotta be wrong. 'Severe' driving conditions only shorten lengths between servicing. Therefore, in normal driving conditions the belt would need to be replaced.

I'd change it at very minimum every 100k miles.

My .02

 

[H2GURU]

Accord,
I do believe for that year and model the interval is 60,000 miles. If you've got the original manual check that schedule. If not, then its definitely at 90,000. The belts aren't a lifetime part and that engine HAS a belt.

 

[hate2work]

Below is what Toyota has to say about it, hope it helps...

==============================================================

If your vehicle is a 1999 model year or newer and is equipped with a timing belt, you should replace it every 90,000 miles or six years, whichever comes first.

For all other Toyota vehicles equipped with a timing belt, we recommend that the timing belt be inspected with the other drive belts at 60,000 miles or four years, whichever comes first, and every 15,000 miles thereafter and replaced as necessary. Because the costs involved with inspecting the timing belt may be similar to those of having it replaced, many customers may find it more cost effective to replace the timing belt at 60,000-mile intervals.

Should the timing belt break while you are driving the vehicle, severe engine damage could result. The higher the speed, the more extensive the damage could be.

 

[dorkiedoode]

60k Severe
105k for normal
99 accord

 

[cderalow]

Originally Posted By: dorkiedoode
60k Severe
105k for normal
99 accord



one should note that the recommended intervals for a newer, different manufacturer's vehicle, would not apply to an older, other make.

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: dorkiedoode
60k Severe
105k for normal
99 accord


How does this answer the OP's question about a 92 Corolla?

 

[Drew99GT]

My 94 Corolla clearly states in the manual (and in my Haynes manual) every 60,000 miles regardless of driving conditions. When I did mine last year, it still looked brand new, but I replaced it and the tensioner/tensioner spring. Based on that, I'm probably going to go 100K next time.

 

[mechtech2]

Square toothed belt - 60 - 80,000
Round tooth belt - 80-100,000
This is good general advice.
Also, pulleys should be replaced when doing a belt, unless you are selling it that week.

 

[IndyIan]

Really? Do they wear out of pitch that much? Is there a way to measure the wear?
I know with chains and sprockets you really have to watch as worn sprockets will make a new chain old pretty quick. But I didn't think it was an issue for toothed belts.
Ian

 

[Nyquist]

Don't some of those belts stretch out a bit too? I thought I remembered reading that somewhere before. Maybe that is the reason for the intervals on some of those.

 

[Steve S]

Usually it is way cheaper to change the belt too often than too late.

 

[ArrestMeRedZ]

Ahem, a fact I'm now aware of. My wife's '96 Toyota RAV4 didn't have a replacement interval listed in the manual. Based on the fact it just quit, and I don't hear any valve sounds when cranked, I'm pretty sure it is the timing belt. I can tell you on that car, the interval is less than 103,000 miles.
Hopefully, I don't have any bent valves, and won't have to pull the head.

 

[mechtech2]

Bad pulleys cause belts to puke, not the other way around.
The internal bearings are what wear.
They may indeed go longer, but it is simply not worth it due to the trouble of getting to them, and the damage they can cause. They can also cause a belt to 'walk' off the gears.
So that is why I recommend new pulleys as well.

 

[andyd]

I replace the tensioner with every timing belt change, Most look perfect, but I had one that was loud and starting to get sloppy. Never even thought to replace a pulley though.

 

[ourfamo4]

IMO when you replace a TB you need to replace all of the components related to it. Tensioner, idler pulley, water pump anything that is run by or touching the TB. One of those other parts fail later down the road, and your back to replacing valves.

 

[jldcol]

Second to replace belt, tensioner, and any related belt guides. Also change water pump if it is TB driven, life expectancy is similar and if WP just starts to weep coolant, will deteriorate that belt fairly quickly. The labor rate/time if you diy is similar to replace water pump later, better to do all at once.

 

[M1Accord]

OP here,

I have the original owner manual as well as the service/repair manual. The owner manual clearly states that replacement is only application for Schedule A, which involves very severe driving condition such as short trips, slow and long duration driving such as police cruising, and door to door delivery. For Schedule B, there is absolutely no mention of timing belt.

The first time it was replaced was at 54k miles according to the marker writing on on timing belt housing. I assumed this was done by the original owner in Florida. The second owner, who spent a lot of money converting it to R134a, fixing small leakage around windows and frame, and many other maintenance item have his record very well kept and this is no mentioning of the belt replacement on his part. To be safe, I will replace the belt at 125k miles, which is 30k miles from now or 3 more years, which ever come first. I do not drive the car a lot but do put in 15 miles per trip and there is no high revving so all belts should be fine. I like to be able to replace it myself but this is something I am not comfortable with since I haven't done it before. I have to find out if it is cost effective to just have Pep Boys do the work and have the water pump as well as all other belts replaced at that time. Then I'll stick to the 100k miles replacement for all belts, water pump, spark plugs, fuel filter. I wonder if there is a discount to have all belts replaced at the same time since it takes the same exact amount of work as drive belts have to come off when the alternator is loosen up to get to the timing belt.

For reference, the service belt was replaced at 64k miles and show no sign of age at 94k miles. My Honda Accord, which now as 77k miles still has original belt and it looks good as well. I think no running the rev up keep trips under 100 miles does give belts much longer life.

 

[IndyIan]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Bad pulleys cause belts to puke, not the other way around.
The internal bearings are what wear.
They may indeed go longer, but it is simply not worth it due to the trouble of getting to them, and the damage they can cause. They can also cause a belt to 'walk' off the gears.
So that is why I recommend new pulleys as well.


You mean the tensioner pulley! I thought you meant gears/pullies on the cam and crankshaft... So "gears" is the correct term for use with toothed belts. Do those ever need replacing? probably not I guess.
I just had a headgasket go on my Neon and while they were in that deep, we put in a new water pump, tensioner, and timing belt. Should be good until the car is done I hope.
Ian

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: M1Accord
OP here,

I have the original owner manual as well as the service/repair manual. The owner manual clearly states that replacement is only application for Schedule A, which involves very severe driving condition such as short trips, slow and long duration driving such as police cruising, and door to door delivery. For Schedule B, there is absolutely no mention of timing belt.

The first time it was replaced was at 54k miles according to the marker writing on on timing belt housing. I assumed this was done by the original owner in Florida. The second owner, who spent a lot of money converting it to R134a, fixing small leakage around windows and frame, and many other maintenance item have his record very well kept and this is no mentioning of the belt replacement on his part. To be safe, I will replace the belt at 125k miles, which is 30k miles from now or 3 more years, which ever come first. I do not drive the car a lot but do put in 15 miles per trip and there is no high revving so all belts should be fine. I like to be able to replace it myself but this is something I am not comfortable with since I haven't done it before. I have to find out if it is cost effective to just have Pep Boys do the work and have the water pump as well as all other belts replaced at that time. Then I'll stick to the 100k miles replacement for all belts, water pump, spark plugs, fuel filter. I wonder if there is a discount to have all belts replaced at the same time since it takes the same exact amount of work as drive belts have to come off when the alternator is loosen up to get to the timing belt.

For reference, the service belt was replaced at 64k miles and show no sign of age at 94k miles. My Honda Accord, which now as 77k miles still has original belt and it looks good as well. I think no running the rev up keep trips under 100 miles does give belts much longer life.



You can purchase kits that have everything for this vehicle - comes with the belt, the tensioner pulley, and a new spring for the tensioner. As far as the waterpump, you might not need to get it done when the timing belt is done since the water pump is driven via the alternator belt, and it can be replaced without digging under the timing covers.