My Stratus wont blow anymore hot air from the vents anymore just cold, what do you guys suggest checking out to find out the problem?
no more heat
- Thread starter spursfan600
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I really got to fix this problem soon because winter is coming up and Chicago has gotten long winters these past few years
Heater core is clogged most likely..
Does the temperature gauge read normally on the gauge cluster when you've been driving a while?
Does the temperature gauge read normally on the gauge cluster when you've been driving a while?
Is your radiator full of coolant? Besides that, I concur the clogged heater core. Flush and try again. Do you get any heat at all? Air flow?
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start by removing the thermostat, replace housing and hoses, then disconnect the upper hose and backflush with a garden hose until it is clear water coming out---water will be coming out of the upper rad hose while you run it into the upper hose outlet. then drain, replace t-stat, then refill, bleed air. do this with the heater temp knob to the hottest position..... hopefully that will unclog a plugged heater core..... if that doesn't work, check the heater temp control...either the valve to the core isn't working or the cable, servo, isn't operning the valve or duct
When did you last flush the coolant system ? If it was more than 4-5 years ago I would use Preston super flush to clean the system and heater core, then re-fill with at least 50% coolant.
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Before you do all that ..is this a progressive problem or all of a sudden?
Are you sure that the blending door is moving? Does the system have a full time heater core flow or does it have a vacuum actuated heater control valve (visible in the engine bay)?
After you've answered/determined that those things are in order ..then go to the trouble of the cooling system cleaning.
That is, unless you're due for it anyway.
Are you sure that the blending door is moving? Does the system have a full time heater core flow or does it have a vacuum actuated heater control valve (visible in the engine bay)?
After you've answered/determined that those things are in order ..then go to the trouble of the cooling system cleaning.
That is, unless you're due for it anyway.
Well it happened recently, I would have to say it happens progressively, when I turn the heater on sometimes only cold air flows through the vents but then at times, warm air flows (but the air doesnt stay warm for long). I never really did a full coolant flush before I just poured in some new coolant not too long ago (I am quite new at maintaining cars) however I will swing by an autoparts store tomorrow and pick up some coolant and flush kit. Gary, I dont exactly know what heating system my car has however I dont seem to see anything that would seem like a vacuum actuated heater control valve in the engine bay. As for the temp gauge, after driving awhile the needle goes up really high (even close to the red). Thanks for all your help guys, I am determined to fix this problem by myself without going to a mechanic 
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I can't seem to find a heater control valve for your Stratus. Since I was able to find one for my 92 Caravan on the Mopar site, I'll assume that you don't have one.
Your additional information of the temp going up high would lend to a system needing attention rather than a failed blending door.
Good luck!
The heater control valve, if so equipped, would look something like this.
Your additional information of the temp going up high would lend to a system needing attention rather than a failed blending door.
Good luck!
The heater control valve, if so equipped, would look something like this.
You may need these items: concentrate coolant, super flush and T-flush.
Hook up T-flush to your heater hose (follow instructions on the package)
Flush out old coolant via the T-flush with garden hose (follow instructions on the package)
Pour super flush into your coolant system (follow instructions on the bottle), you may want to run engine more than 10 minutes or drive your car for a couple days to let super flush clean all the gunk in he coolant system.
Flush out super flush via the T-flush with garden hose (follow instructions on the package)
Refill coolant system with concentrate coolant.
Hook up T-flush to your heater hose (follow instructions on the package)
Flush out old coolant via the T-flush with garden hose (follow instructions on the package)
Pour super flush into your coolant system (follow instructions on the bottle), you may want to run engine more than 10 minutes or drive your car for a couple days to let super flush clean all the gunk in he coolant system.
Flush out super flush via the T-flush with garden hose (follow instructions on the package)
Refill coolant system with concentrate coolant.
Originally Posted By: spursfan600
Well it happened recently, I would have to say it happens progressively, when I turn the heater on sometimes only cold air flows through the vents but then at times, warm air flows (but the air doesnt stay warm for long). I just poured in some new coolant not too long ago. As for the temp gauge, after driving awhile the needle goes up really high (even close to the red).
Are you leaking coolant anywhere? Does the heat happen to disappear at idle, such as red lights and get warmer the faster you go? I dont think it has anything to do with the HVAC system. Sounds like a clog somewhere, a bad thermostat, and the worst case head gasket.
Well it happened recently, I would have to say it happens progressively, when I turn the heater on sometimes only cold air flows through the vents but then at times, warm air flows (but the air doesnt stay warm for long). I just poured in some new coolant not too long ago. As for the temp gauge, after driving awhile the needle goes up really high (even close to the red).
Are you leaking coolant anywhere? Does the heat happen to disappear at idle, such as red lights and get warmer the faster you go? I dont think it has anything to do with the HVAC system. Sounds like a clog somewhere, a bad thermostat, and the worst case head gasket.
It could be an air bubble. Sometimes you get these with a bad head gasket-- exhaust into water jacket. Air bubble behind thermostat will make it not open and run hot... then suddenly open. A teeny bypass hole in the flange of the thermostat may help. Same bypass helps burp air on reassembly anyway. Make the hole too big and you'll lose heat when it's wicked cold out... 1/16" is good.
Originally Posted By: spursfan600
Well it happened recently, I would have to say it happens progressively, when I turn the heater on sometimes only cold air flows through the vents but then at times, warm air flows (but the air doesnt stay warm for long). I never really did a full coolant flush before I just poured in some new coolant not too long ago (I am quite new at maintaining cars) however I will swing by an autoparts store tomorrow and pick up some coolant and flush kit. Gary, I dont exactly know what heating system my car has however I dont seem to see anything that would seem like a vacuum actuated heater control valve in the engine bay. As for the temp gauge, after driving awhile the needle goes up really high (even close to the red). Thanks for all your help guys, I am determined to fix this problem by myself without going to a mechanic
most cars temp guage will be around the halfway mark. unless they are low on coolant, or the fans aren't working. if topping off and bleeding air doesn't do it, i would reverse flush and refill and go ahead and replace the thermostat....only about ten bucks. running that hot is not good.
Well it happened recently, I would have to say it happens progressively, when I turn the heater on sometimes only cold air flows through the vents but then at times, warm air flows (but the air doesnt stay warm for long). I never really did a full coolant flush before I just poured in some new coolant not too long ago (I am quite new at maintaining cars) however I will swing by an autoparts store tomorrow and pick up some coolant and flush kit. Gary, I dont exactly know what heating system my car has however I dont seem to see anything that would seem like a vacuum actuated heater control valve in the engine bay. As for the temp gauge, after driving awhile the needle goes up really high (even close to the red). Thanks for all your help guys, I am determined to fix this problem by myself without going to a mechanic
most cars temp guage will be around the halfway mark. unless they are low on coolant, or the fans aren't working. if topping off and bleeding air doesn't do it, i would reverse flush and refill and go ahead and replace the thermostat....only about ten bucks. running that hot is not good.
I flushed out the old coolant as well as replaced the thermostat. The gauge needle went back to the middle and the heat is back. Thanks guys for all your help
I had a similar situation with a Chevy Caprice. After I was sure the control valve and flap were working properly I disconnected both heater hoses. I hooked it up to the garden hose and let a slow stream go through the heater core. I didn't want anything that might be plugging up the core going thru the engine again. When I hooked everything back up topped up the coolant and bled the system the heat was like new again.
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