No cruise control 04 Chevy Express

Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
4,327
Location
Kansas, USA
Not sure if it’s just not setting or not getting power. The cruise worked fine last season. Since then though I’ve replaced the carpet in the cab, replaced the rear transmission mount and installed LED tail lights.. had to change the relay for those. I’m guessing I knocked something off under the dash or on the trans, the Speedo and tail lights work fine but there could be two brake switches. Or there’s an incompatibility with the LEDs. I checked all the fuses all seem good. The drivers side power point I need to check, don’t think it has any power and left my meter at home. The web is sparse on the Express. Not sure to start, or if the OBD reader would tell me anything.
 
If you take the brake switch apart there may be little cams and stuff in there. Fiddle and you might fix it. Believe there are multiple contacts, if it's anything like my GMT900 was.
 
On the GMT800-era trucks and SUVs, if you have non-incandescent bulbs in the tail lamps for brake lights, the cruise control will not work. I'm sure there's some sort of work around when using LED bulbs, but I never cared enough to run them to figure out what it is.

I just kept incandescent in everything but DRL, license plate lamps, puddle lamps and reverse lights.

EDIT: apparently you need load resistors... I now remember this. I never liked the thought of cutting into factory wiring and adding resistors (which will inevitably get hot). I preferred just keeping incandescents.

Perhaps if the LED look is something you want, there's some sort of LED bulb now-a-days with a built in resistor. Not sure.
 
Not sure if it’s just not setting or not getting power. The cruise worked fine last season. Since then though I’ve replaced the carpet in the cab, replaced the rear transmission mount and installed LED tail lights.. had to change the relay for those. I’m guessing I knocked something off under the dash or on the trans, the Speedo and tail lights work fine but there could be two brake switches. Or there’s an incompatibility with the LEDs. I checked all the fuses all seem good. The drivers side power point I need to check, don’t think it has any power and left my meter at home. The web is sparse on the Express. Not sure to start, or if the OBD reader would tell me anything.
Did ypu replace the halogen bulbs with led drop ins? Or did you replace the entire housing with a replacement led bulb housing?
 
On the GMT800-era trucks and SUVs, if you have non-incandescent bulbs in the tail lamps for brake lights, the cruise control will not work. I'm sure there's some sort of work around when using LED bulbs, but I never cared enough to run them to figure out what it is.

I just kept incandescent in everything but DRL, license plate lamps, puddle lamps and reverse lights.

EDIT: apparently you need load resistors... I now remember this. I never liked the thought of cutting into factory wiring and adding resistors (which will inevitably get hot). I preferred just keeping incandescents.

Perhaps if the LED look is something you want, there's some sort of LED bulb now-a-days with a built in resistor. Not sure.
Guessing the LM502 relay is separate from that signal wire? I’ll try to find some wiring diagrams and see how it gets a signal. All the lights work fine now but maybe there’s another wire. Might just put a resistor on the signal wire. Since it’s a RV the upfitter might complicate things.
 
Guessing the LM502 relay is separate from that signal wire? I’ll try to find some wiring diagrams and see how it gets a signal. All the lights work fine now but maybe there’s another wire. Might just put a resistor on the signal wire. Since it’s a RV the upfitter might complicate things.
Yeah the relay is just for the turn signal hyper flash. The cruise control looks to the stop light circuit which would either be the brake light bulb or that filament if the bulb is a dual filament. Im not super up on vans. But either way, two different circuits.

You’d need a resistor wired in for the brake light bulb/circuit. Just browsing around online, sounds like some either wire in resistors or wire up an old brake light bulb socket to one side of the wires and tuck a bulb away.

Also there’s some chatter around aftermarket LED housings having built in resistors. Something about some scotch locks included with the wiring that you can tap into your tail lamp wiring upstream of the connector to wire them in with? Dunno.

These would be the resistors you’d wire into the brake light bulb portion of your wiring. Basically so the system can see some resistance. Presently with the LEDs drawing so little power. It thinks the bulbs are out.

 
Thanks for the posting. It’s very interesting, however, it sounds like it’s too much of a hassle. I recently posted about changing out all my rear bulbs on my Burb and I chose long life incandescents. Onward to other things. :coffee:
 
Yeah the relay is just for the turn signal hyper flash. The cruise control looks to the stop light circuit which would either be the brake light bulb or that filament if the bulb is a dual filament. Im not super up on vans. But either way, two different circuits.

You’d need a resistor wired in for the brake light bulb/circuit. Just browsing around online, sounds like some either wire in resistors or wire up an old brake light bulb socket to one side of the wires and tuck a bulb away.

Also there’s some chatter around aftermarket LED housings having built in resistors. Something about some scotch locks included with the wiring that you can tap into your tail lamp wiring upstream of the connector to wire them in with? Dunno.

These would be the resistors you’d wire into the brake light bulb portion of your wiring. Basically so the system can see some resistance. Presently with the LEDs drawing so little power. It thinks the bulbs are out.

IMG_2731.jpeg

Everything just has to be difficult LOL. I can either take the easy route and put the resistors in or figure out the signal and put it there. I’d like to see what that supply voltage is.
 
Pretty sure resistance isn’t the issue, I hate just buying parts. In the cutaway it bypasses all of the checks.. I think. I’ve checked every control wire to the control unit, power , ground, stop lamp, release and the on/off and all tested good. I didn’t test the set I’ll do that tomorrow. About to call the control unit.. unless it’s the inhibit signal or vss. The vss should be good since the speedo and torque lock up is working.
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Well everyone that said it need resistance you were right. The pcm inhibit is the link I think. Got these and just put it on the passenger side and it started working. Not going to put the drivers side on just kept it as a spare.
IMG_2783.jpeg
 
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