DTC code: P0705 (PRNDL Input-Engine and ECT) What could this mean?

[Thermo1223]

I don't know about the first question or how to find out. But, the alternator has a voltage regulator built into it.

I don't like the amount of corrosion on the positive side of the alternator. That cable could be internally compromised. Something is wrong in that circuit, and it is way possible to have 2 duds out of the box. Happened to a person a work.

I would be doing a continuity test on the wires and check all the grounds in the engine bay.

 

[SC Maintenance]

That's what I've always heard/thought. However, since I've owned my car 5+ years, it would often show as low as 13.2v at idle

13.2V indicates that either the ECU thinks the battery is charged already, or the RPM isn't high enough to get any more. 13.2V is a maintain voltage - its not charging the battery, but the electrical system is running off the alternator, not the battery - which is how it should be anyway - your battery is really for starting only, and to act as a buffer while running.

 

[SC Maintenance]

It's holding steady at ~11.9 volts.

Where exactly are you reading your voltage? At idle put an ohm meter directly across the battery terminals and check it there. Its possibly you have some resistance in a connection to your OBD port - if that is where your seeing the 11.9 volts.

 

[Jonas]

Where exactly are you reading your voltage? At idle put an ohm meter directly across the battery terminals and check it there. Its possibly you have some resistance in a connection to your OBD port - if that is where your seeing the 11.9 volts.

I think it's correct. My wipers and window motors are very slow.

 

[Jonas]

I don't like the amount of corrosion on the positive side of the alternator. That cable could be internally compromised. Something is wrong in that circuit, and it is way possible to have 2 duds out of the box. Happened to a person a work.

I would be doing a continuity test on the wires and check all the grounds in the engine bay.

Do be clear, the previous alternator was an OEM (Denso) that was in service for 10 months. The replacement could very well have been a dud, though. It was some Mexico rebuilt thing from Napa that didn't look great either.

 

[Jonas]

Do be clear, the previous alternator was an OEM (Denso) that was in service for 10 months. The replacement could very well have been a dud, though. It was some Mexico rebuilt thing from Napa that didn't look great either.

 

[Jonas]

*RESOLVED?*

Blown fuse. What made it blow, I don't know. But my car is tentatively fixed.
One question. Do you think Napa will let me return the alternator I bought yesterday? If not, I do have an old, old alternator I can, at least, return for an $80 core (and have a spare alternator).

 

[Thermo1223]

Well that's a relief and pretty counter intuitive to have GM/Toyota put the charging circuit on the rear defroster line.

As far as I know as long as you have the box and receipt, I can't see them giving you an issue or you could keep it as a spare.