Next Level Protection?

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Originally Posted by BigCahuna
GM's oil life monitor never knows what type of oil YOUR using, and you can't program what type your using into it. So if you use auto store brand oil, it will tell you to change it at 5k miles. If you use Mobil 1 Extended performance 15k usage oil, it will still tell you to change it at 5k miles. So how is that accurate? If you blindly go by the ALM, you will be throwing good serviceable oil away...


Yep The OLMs are junk. My GM goes off at about 10.7K and has never changed in 15 years. Matters-not if I'm driving city or all highway. Matters-not what oil I use - or whether it's dino, semi or full syn.
 
Good lord! Im not trying to rub pit bulls noses together guys! Look, the Equinox "no turbo" 2.4L Inline 4 cylinder, daily driver as I stated I chose Mobil1 EP and will be using Napa gold filter cartridges on out. As stated. I will be switching to M1 advanced full syn to run 5k intervals with m1 advanced full syn. If some other oil has better hths that mine fine! Some other oil has better cleaning additives but less hths than mine fine!
Let me ask you all a question I think I have mentioned before with no answer. What oil has best hths, cleaning additives, viscosity rating, low temp rating, best additive package, and the best of whatever else your concerns would be looked at for an auto oil on a shelf with the rest of the on shelf stuff thats non acceptable by every other Joe Smoe. I have an Amsoil store in town, "like an amsoil walmart" i chose not to use Amsoil because I dont care about extending drain intervals. So I simply stated I want a good cleaning additive with a good wear shield and then I will continue with the highly recommended oil m1 afs with good hths for 5-7k mile intervals.
 
What weight? 5w20 will be hard to find measurable differences, 5w30 and up will be easier.
 
You say best hths, as in "higher", the other side of it is gas mielage hawks want low hths. Very likely why some oil companies don't want to show thier hths. As far as Amsoil, it shines in most areas except hths. If you want a real difference, look at Motul and Redline, kind of overkill for a 5-7k mile interval, but if you chose to extend it that could pay for itself. I don't know where you live, but if 10w30 will fly, that is where you can really get good hths numbers, especially high mileage oils like m1 HTHS 3.5.
 
I thought that the whole point of GM coming up with dexos approved oils was so that at bare minimum, if the oil met the standard, it would be effective until the OLM indicated that it needed to be changed with the exception of whatever caveats are mentioned in the owners manual for specific vehicles/scenarios.

So, wouldn't the only reason you would care about getting a "better" oil be so that you could go farther than the OLM?

just saying.
 
Burla, I live in SW Iowa it gets brutsl here. Summer it can get to 110, winter it can get to -30 despite what the weather channel says. Im not totally against extending oli, but everyone knows its not the oil that kills an engine its the neglect. 5-7k im comfortable, 10 to 15 im itching. Amsoils 25k i would be scratching my face off man.
 
I thiink there were more options before ILSAC GF-5, now everything is fuel mileage friendly. Now, here's the thing, 0w40's don't have the same rules as far as additives as 5w30's, so many manu's make 0w40 their best effort oil with additives and base oils. But someone would say, no way I'm not running a 40 weight, but actually you wouldn't be. 30 weights end at like 12.5 cSt I believe, well there are a group of oil manufactorers that make their 0w40 right on the line of the minimum cSt is for a 40 weight, because of the swing winter rating to weight, they tend to shear very quickly, so in your cranckcase they spend 80% of the time or more as a 5w30 and not a 0w40. Look up cSt 0w40, m1 and Castrol Edge, anything that has the mercedes spec and posrche spec is what I'd be looking at with a 0w40. They tend to have more additives as well, PUP 0w40 has like 4 or 5 times the moly as they rest of their oils. So just maybe if you want "next level" protection, take a gander at the 0w40's. High hths and higher additives but a cSt that if you read the uoa's will be a 30 weight for sure.
 
Originally Posted by badduxx
I thought that the whole point of GM coming up with dexos approved oils was so that at bare minimum, if the oil met the standard, it would be effective until the OLM indicated that it needed to be changed with the exception of whatever caveats are mentioned in the owners manual for specific vehicles/scenarios.

So, wouldn't the only reason you would care about getting a "better" oil be so that you could go farther than the OLM?

just saying.


Have three GM vehicles that get the OLM reset at zero of the OCI. I started using them in earnest about 10 years ago. Almost always with name brand synthetic. This is how I got out of the 5k only rut. Each vehicle reaches the limit between 6k and 8k in mixed driving. From there, I monitor the percentage against my schedule and change when it makes sense. So that's extra miles above and beyond my old 5k … good enough …
When I'm out of town … I can see vehicle and oil condition via OnStar …
 
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
Burla, I live in SW Iowa it gets brutsl here. Summer it can get to 110, winter it can get to -30 despite what the weather channel says. Im not totally against extending oli, but everyone knows its not the oil that kills an engine its the neglect. 5-7k im comfortable, 10 to 15 im itching. Amsoils 25k i would be scratching my face off man.

Best is to change at OLM=0% using one of the better oils. M1 EP, M1 AP, or Castrol Edge EP (gold-jug) or Amsoil SS. Then you are more certain the oil hasn't been breaking down too much during the last 2,000 miles of the oil change interval. Using Valvoline full-syn would get you HTHS 3.2, which is a bit higher for hot weather, yet I think the long-drain oils (at OLM intervals) will satisfy your desire to get a cleaner engine as you have expressed.
 
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That sounds reasonable to me. I will let the remaining oil go to 20% as chevy wants and change with what i have purchased and do a uoa on the acdelco to see what it looks like if i can make it that long cause im already itching.
 
In other words sounds like you want Red Line
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
That sounds reasonable to me. I will let the remaining oil go to 20% as chevy wants and change with what i have purchased and do a uoa on the acdelco to see what it looks like if i can make it that long cause im already itching.


You need to change your itch to worry about oil filter instead of oil imo. Have you cut open your oil filters after a 5k mile interval? I do, and I can tell you last time I cut open my filter it was a 10k mile 2 year interval, and because I use spun micro glass, it was like new. They filter longer, and better. This is a good read, note the patches, the compiled pic shows that every synthetic filter on top has less contamination and those microns rolling around the engine.
oil filter study

I have never cut open a paper filter and have it pliable, everytime it was stiff as cardboard, to the point I just stopped using them. See the image, whatever is on the patch is what is rolling around the engine, note RP, amsoil, Fram Ultra (different name in test) are the top three patches. Top 3 patches 100 spun microglass, next filter m1 part spun microglass, any questions, no good.

[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
.......let the remaining oil go to 20% as chevy wants and change with what i have purchased ....
That is the dealership saying 20%, not Chevy-GM. GM says 0%. Looks like the dealership likes more business.
 
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Originally Posted by burla
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
That sounds reasonable to me. I will let the remaining oil go to 20% as chevy wants and change with what i have purchased and do a uoa on the acdelco to see what it looks like if i can make it that long cause im already itching.


You need to change your itch to worry about oil filter instead of oil imo. Have you cut open your oil filters after a 5k mile interval? I do, and I can tell you last time I cut open my filter it was a 10k mile 2 year interval, and because I use spun micro glass, it was like new. They filter longer, and better. This is a good read, note the patches, the compiled pic shows that every synthetic filter on top has less contamination and those microns rolling around the engine.
oil filter study

I have never cut open a paper filter and have it pliable, everytime it was stiff as cardboard, to the point I just stopped using them. See the image, whatever is on the patch is what is rolling around the engine, note RP, amsoil, Fram Ultra (different name in test) are the top three patches. Top 3 patches 100 spun microglass, next filter m1 part spun microglass, any questions, no good.

[Linked Image]


No doubt this is a big factor for me I was thinking the same. I have seen videos of the oe acdelco filters coming out of these things and its more disturbing than the oil itelf. I suppose they work but one only wonders how! I am not a fan of acdelco, i have owned my fair share of gm quality vehicles....
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
.......let the remaining oil go to 20% as chevy wants and change with what i have purchased ....
That is the dealership saying 20%, not Chevy-GM. GM says 0%. Looks like the dealership likes more business.

I would honestly take the dealerships word for it. And here we go again bashing the almighty chevrolet gmc cadillac and what was the other??? Oh yeah buick...
 
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