New to the Forum Excited!

Joined
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This looked like the best place to post an introduction.

I am looking forward to learning a whole lot more about oil! This site kept coming up in my searches and wow it is full of great information.

I have a 2014 Forester (2.5L) that I recently dropped at new remanufactured engine into as well.as a 2014 Silverado 1500 (5.3L).

I am doing research into different oils and grades so I can make the best decision possible for these engines.

Anyway, I just wanted to say hi and see you around the forum!

For fun, here's a pic of my new engine (2.5L for the Forester) when I had it on the stand.

PXL_20241004_202556543_copy_1512x2016.webp
 
I'm not on the Welcoming Committee, but WECOME! !

What happened to the original?
This year of Forester is known for the infamous oil consumption issue.

I had around 162k miles on it and was losing a quart of oil in less than 800 miles. The cam carriers and timing cover were also leaking.

The new engine is in the break in period with almost 1k miles on it now and running great so far.
 
This looked like the best place to post an introduction.

I am looking forward to learning a whole lot more about oil! This site kept coming up in my searches and wow it is full of great information.

I have a 2014 Forester (2.5L) that I recently dropped at new remanufactured engine into as well.as a 2014 Silverado 1500 (5.3L).

I am doing research into different oils and grades so I can make the best decision possible for these engines.

Anyway, I just wanted to say hi and see you around the forum!

For fun, here's a pic of my new engine (2.5L for the Forester) when I had it on the stand.

View attachment 296955

Welcome big_eight!

That 2.5L looks like it was dunked into a tank of Valvoline Restore and Protect! 😎

There’s lots of useful information on BITOG on numerous topics, both automotive and non-automotive.

The “Search” function is your friend from the get-go, least you be the 1,000th newbie who asks the same question that was asked in 38 previous posts, some as recent as the week before.
 
Where'd you source the replacement engine?

The only new car I ever bought was a 1995 Subaru Legacy LS wagon. It had the 2.2l.
It ran like a watch. Seriously, you couldn't hear it running.
Afterwards, Subaru modified that engine, upping its dissiepoo to 2.5l.
That's when the problems -experienced in real life and read about here- started.
 
Where'd you source the replacement engine?

The only new car I ever bought was a 1995 Subaru Legacy LS wagon. It had the 2.2l.
It ran like a watch. Seriously, you couldn't hear it running.
Afterwards, Subaru modified that engine, upping its dissiepoo to 2.5l.
That's when the problems -experienced in real life and read about here- started.
I sourced the engine from SSI Subaru Specialists. Just a few a guys that do Subaru engines. The experience was great and decent price as well.
 
Welcome big_eight!

That 2.5L looks like it was dunked into a tank of Valvoline Restore and Protect! 😎

There’s lots of useful information on BITOG on numerous topics, both automotive and non-automotive.

The “Search” function is your friend from the get-go, least you be the 1,000th newbie who asks the same question that was asked in 38 previous posts, some as recent as the week before.
Thanks!

I'm actually considering R&P for both the Silverado and Forester.

I'll make good use of the search function as it's already yielded some information that is gold.
 
I sourced the engine from SSI Subaru Specialists. Just a few a guys that do Subaru engines. The experience was great and decent price as well.
how much did the reman cost you?

I have a feeling your old engine is rebuildable, I was looking into Subaru engine cores last week and 3/3 had perfect cylinder walls so, I know I could have easily rebuild them back to spec.

This is what I myself follow and recommend to people who buy rebuild engines from me.

Oil changes during the break-in period, and this is based on the fact that I simply do have the same working conditions as a factory that makes new engines.
  1. 0-15 miles after installation when you have verified that there are no leaks and taken it on a short drive to confirm it is running good.
  2. 500 miles after the last oil change
  3. 1500 miles after the last oil change
  4. 3000 miles after the last oil change
  5. follow the OCI that you have decided on. (5k miles on the Toyota engines that I rebuild)
You want to get out as much of the dirt (from not working in a perfect vacuum), assembly lube, sealer residue, and engine break-in initially as possible.
 
how much did the reman cost you?

I have a feeling your old engine is rebuildable, I was looking into Subaru engine cores last week and 3/3 had perfect cylinder walls so, I know I could have easily rebuild them back to spec.

This is what I myself follow and recommend to people who buy rebuild engines from me.

Oil changes during the break-in period, and this is based on the fact that I simply do have the same working conditions as a factory that makes new engines.
  1. 0-15 miles after installation when you have verified that there are no leaks and taken it on a short drive to confirm it is running good.
  2. 500 miles after the last oil change
  3. 1500 miles after the last oil change
  4. 3000 miles after the last oil change
  5. follow the OCI that you have decided on. (5k miles on the Toyota engines that I rebuild)
You want to get out as much of the dirt (from not working in a perfect vacuum), assembly lube, sealer residue, and engine break-in initially as possible.
Thanks for the great info!

I just did my 500 mile oil change and was planning on the next one at the 2k mile interval. I'm planning on an OCI of 5k.

The engine was $4350 and the total was ~$5k with freight/taxes.
 
Welcome to the BITOG
1756049917956.webp
where paralysis by analysis is a real thing. What did SSI Subaru specialists recommend for break in or other?

Commercially available at Walmart. Currently one of the highly recommended for many things is Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30. Many say it's their top offering and will work to keep from future burning issues.

Valvoline Restore and Protect is showing it does what it claims for cleaning ring lands and other parts and keeping it that way. 5w30 is probably a good choice. It might have cleared your oil burning prior.

HPL and Amsoil as boutique have shown to be excellent by many respected members. HPL is very good with customer service, suggesting what they feel is best for you (or not). They cater very well to BITOG. Amsoil has always been a good choice.

Oil filters will be another topic for what and what not to use. Many old recommended brands models are now on the do not use list.

@Glenda W. did a lot of documenting with oil burning on Subaru IIRC, what was used prior, what used to clean and what is in use now.

I recall one thread where it was discussed that Dave from HPL recommended NOT using their product due to planned oil change frequency, cost and that nothing will save the motor from rebuild later. He recommend inexpensive, commercially available, frequent changes as well as prayer. You won't get that from many companies.

Look at doing some used oil analysis so you know what your motor is doing in your usage conditions. You can establish a trend so if you do one randomly you may see changes or some frequent ones if you have a potential concern.
 
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