New to me old Craftsman table saw

M

mez

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Nov 14, 2006
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MA
Just picked up a used 10" belt driven table saw to cut mostly scrap wood for the wood stove. Only drawback it's very heavy and not so portable but well built. never had/used a belt driven saw. Any good?

Anyone know where I can find the owner manual?
 

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Google the model number and see what comes up.

That saw is built like a tank, it should serve you well and it's built in the USA! Thanks for the pics.
 
Nothing wrong with that especially if its free! But i think it will be a pain to move about. I don't see a rip fence or a miter gauge, you will really need those.

If you find you want a small but easier to move saw, check out the ridgid portable. Its a good saw. i can roll it in and out of my building and even stand it up on end. Great for projects when i only have a few hours. You might not do cabinetry with it, but its more than enough for most projects.

The price is worth the portability.
Freud blade.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-10-in-Pro-Jobsite-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4514/309415135

I'm trimming all the windows in my home with oak, using this saw.
IMG_20201108_141635678.jpg
IMG_20201108_110544148.jpg
IMG_20201108_112325314.jpg
 
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mez said:
Just picked up a used 10" belt driven table saw to cut mostly scrap wood for the wood stove. Only drawback it's very heavy and not so portable but well built. never had/used a belt driven saw. Any good?

Anyone know where I can find the owner manual?
Click to expand...

Not trying to be a SA, but why do you need a manual? Its a pretty straight forward saw. As to weight/size, maybe you can make a wood platform, or one out of blocks to sit it on outside and keep a tarp over when not in use. Looks like a fine old saw and would serve you well on most any project.
 
I had one just like it. Check the bearing housing inside for oil or grease fittings, if it has them, which makes these kinds a superior machine, plus the cast iron table. I bet the manual is available. It isnt that old maybe 1970’s 80’s. Try the motor number on sears parts if no model number left on machine, may connect to a general number. Lucky find.
 
tc1446 said:
Not trying to be a SA, but why do you need a manual? Its a pretty straight forward saw. As to weight/size, maybe you can make a wood platform, or one out of blocks to sit it on outside and keep a tarp over when not in use. Looks like a fine old saw and would serve you well on most any project.
Click to expand...

Manuals are available. Somewhere on the saw is model # like 103.xxxxxxxxx or 109.xxxxxxx, etc.

All vintage Sears saws where well made and very popular. Even older is better. But avoid direct drive types.

The manual will show how to adjust and square up the trunnion and the arbor, parts list, among other things which should be done to an old saw. That's why he needs a manual.

PS: this saw will really shine with a link belt and run/wire it at 230V.
 
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spasm3 said:
Nothing wrong with that especially if its free! But i think it will be a pain to move about. I don't see a rip fence or a miter gauge, you will really need those.

If you find you want a small but easier to move saw, check out the ridgid portable. Its a good saw. i can roll it in and out of my building and even stand it up on end. Great for projects when i only have a few hours. You might not do cabinetry with it, but its more than enough for most projects.

The price is worth the portability.
Freud blade.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-10-in-Pro-Jobsite-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4514/309415135

I'm trimming all the windows in my home with
Click to expand...
 
That style of saw is known as a contractor saw. A contractor would set it up at a job site for carpentry/finish work.

Very straightforward to use, but please install the fence, get a miter gauge, and then, at least a riving knife, if not a blade guard and then follow all the rules of tablesaw use.

A table saw is a precision instrument, using it to cut scrap wood concerns me from a safety perspective. Kickback, and other dangerous phenomena exist when using a table saw improperly. Rough, irregular wood stock going across that blade increases the danger.

It’s a solid old piece, from the 80s, or perhaps early 90s, but it’s not a rough shaping tool.

You can get mobile bases, which have a retractable single caster, to make moving it about much easier.
 
Rip only … push sticks are available that are better than homemade
Chop saws do all the rest for a few bucks …
 
RyanY said:
The model number in the pic is for the motor not the saw. Not too many options back then from Craftsman so the saw is probably one of the versions in this manual:
Click to expand...

Thank you. Looked on the side of the saw and found the saw's model # of 113.298240 and the URL provided contains this model #.

It came with the rip fence and a miter gauge. I paid $50.00 for all.
 
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mez said:
Thank you. Looked on the side of the saw and found the saw's model # of 113.298240 and the URL provided contains this model #.

It came with the rip fence and a miter gauge. I paid $50.00 for all.
Click to expand...
If you have the rip fence and miter gauge, you did good for $50. Those could have been hard to find for an older saw. Get a good blade, and make sure it's set square to the table top surface.
(y)
 
Let me know if you want your money back. Nice looking saw for it's age. I've got an 8" portable table saw that I've had for years but, it just doesn't have enough power for anything the least bit heavy. Most of my projects now days are pretty light. If I have heavy work to do I either use a skill saw or miter saw. I put down new laminate flooring a few years ago, my 8" was easy to move around and did a good job cutting the flooring.
 
So I been using the table saw cutting up scraps of 2x8 etc for a few days and it's built like a tank, I just wished it was a bit more powerful. Overall it's a great saw for the cost. When it does bind, the blade pretty much stops since the belt must be slipping and you get no kickback.
 
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