New to me 2014 Tiguan R line; questions about lube, internals, etc

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Yah, got a new car and it’s my first DI engine.

Well, my 2008 VW Rabbit 2.5 is getting retired. I bought a 2014 Tiquan R Line 56k. This is my first DI engine and carbon build up on the intake valves are on my mind.

I’d like to do the right thing and have frequent OCI and use a low calcium oil. I am also concerned about the timing chains in these motors.

This motor does call for a 40w oil, but what oil doesn’t shear down too much and can keep my chains as healthy as possible, and still have low calcium levels, but is a 40w? ( is that what low saps means?).

Appreciate your thoughts.
 
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Well, my 2008 VW Rabbit 2.5 is getting retired. I bought a 2014 Tiquan R Line 56k. This is my first DI engine and carbon build up on the intake valves are on my mind.

I’d like to do the right thing and have frequent OCI and use a low calcium oil. I am also concerned about the timing chains in these motors.

This motor does call for a 40w oil, but what oil doesn’t shear down too much and can keep my chains as healthy as possible, and still have low calcium levels, but is a 40w? ( is that what low saps means?).

Appreciate your thoughts.
I think you meant to say Tiguan. API SP should have lower Calcium. 40 grade should still be suitable & there is Mobil 5w-50 FS but it's not VW spec'd. I'd try to find a thick 5w-40 & see how it looked w/UOA. Blasting the back of the valves is the only way I've seen as a remedy for back of valve build up. There may be other mitigators I'm not aware of though. Stick with Top Tier fuel every fill.
 
VW doesn't require a 0W40 or 5W40 in those. VW specs you to use either a VW 502 or a VW 504 in that engine. No VW 504 oil comes in xW40. You want to use a VW 504 oil to help slow carbon deposit buildup in your Tiguan. Most VW 504 oils are a 5W30 but I've seen a 0W30.

VW 504 oils have a 3.5 HTHS rating so they aren't the thin 5W30's used in Toyota, Ford, Honda, Hyundai..

I use to own a 2013 VW GTI that has the same engine as your Tiguan. I've spoke of it several times on bitog. I sold it to the middle brother for his work car as he doesn't want to drive his nice vehicle being a WM pharmacy manager. He has over 190K on it, probably 200 by now. It's on the original timing chain. When I owned it, I switched over to using VW 504 oil around 80K when the intake manifold gave out. He has used VW 504 oil it since I sold it to him. I did 5K OCI's and suggested he do the same.

Learn about the oil separator in that engine and don't cheap out on a tow if it goes out because you wanted to make it home. If you hear a whistling noise under the hood stop the engine.

The oil separator plus a few other things in that engine was designed when DI engines weren't as common yet and is why these engines carbon up more than newer generation VW engines.
 
I’m not seeing VW 504 oil at my local Walmart. 502 is common, though. Valvoline, pennzoil, Mobil, Castrol, Quaker state.
 
Nice. I was literally in Walmart on the oil aisle when I posted that they didn’t have it. I didn’t see a 0w30 from mobil. I saw one for for Castrol, but that’s 502. Thank you.
 
I believe the M1 5w30 ESP is also VW 504/507. You can find that most places.
 
Yah, got a new car and it’s my first DI engine.

Well, my 2008 VW Rabbit 2.5 is getting retired. I bought a 2014 Tiquan R Line 56k. This is my first DI engine and carbon build up on the intake valves are on my mind.

I’d like to do the right thing and have frequent OCI and use a low calcium oil. I am also concerned about the timing chains in these motors.

This motor does call for a 40w oil, but what oil doesn’t shear down too much and can keep my chains as healthy as possible, and still have low calcium levels, but is a 40w? ( is that what low saps means?).

Appreciate your thoughts.
Use VW504.00. I use the same engine, Mobil1 ESP 5W30.
That engine does not have LSPI issues. So don't worry about that.
What @RooflessVW said about PCV. Pay attention to the hissing sound. Change Haldex fluid every 40K and filter within Haldex housing.
 
Funny that it says 502. I know that 504 would be better for the carbon build up, but would I be giving up much protection? Is there much difference between both in regard to HTHS, since one is 5w30 and the other is 5w40.

IMG_2220.webp
 
Funny that it says 502. I know that 504 would be better for the carbon build up, but would I be giving up much protection? Is there much difference between both in regard to HTHS, since one is 5w30 and the other is 5w40.

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Thank you for starting another thick/thin debate, been awhile since we've had a good one 😁.

As 504 is generally a "thick" 30wt on the cSt scale, and 502 is generally a "thin" one, virtually no difference. Most like the 40wt stuff in known fuel diluters like earlier VW engine to help combat some grade loss, but overall they will both protect the same since the HTHS is 3.5 or higher. This is really what you want to look for anyway, NOT necessarily the viscosity grade. 504 is a bit "cleaner" also in that it is lower SAPS than 502, but that is mostly an emissions system driven reason to lower the elements that cause it not to play nice with the cats and all. Still lots of debate as to what degree a full SAPS oil does with regard to deposit formation as there are lots of factors involved, but less is usually more as they say. I've done over a dozen intake valve walnut blasts now and the spec/grade/interval/driving style and environment etc., have been all over the place. Suffice it to say, average 100K blasts all look about the same in the older VW engines due to the breather/oil separator/vapor handling design. Which is to say, kinda crusty. The takeaway from all this? Use a solid 504 like Mobil 1 ESP 5w30, change around 5K, and watch the breather. That gen engine has a tendency to spring leaks like an old garden hose and breather condition plays a big part with that. Longer intervals with the Gen I engine can also result in more soot which is not good for the chains. Happy Motoring.
 
Appreciate that. Pretty sure that ESP is available at some of the Walmarts in my area. I’ll look into replacing that breather preventatively. I found a walnut blasting kit on FCP Euro for $200.

Thanks again.
 
I don't disagree with the suggestions, but have no experience with them. I actually think any of them will work fine. My personal experience stems from using the edge 0w40 in my eco 3.5l twin turbo. That engine moves 14000lbs through the Rockies multiple times a year at 80-100f summer temperatures and it just hums along. I can't really comment on the others. just another option for you.
 
As noted either 502 00 or 504 00 oil is fine, I use Mobil 1 ESP mostly because I can get it at Walmart now for a good price. Prior to this I was using Pennzoil Euro L (also at Walmart) since it has BMW Longlife-04 approval and was the least expensive equivalent to 504 00.

And as also noted grade is largely irrelevant here. All three of the approvals I listed above have a minimum 3.5 HT/HS which the approval requires.
 
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