Bought a Snapper at Walmart with the 190 cc B&S . It came with a quart of B&S 30 weight oil .
New push mower requiring 10W30??
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The Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle 5w-30 would work great, as would a monograde 30, Red Line 5w-30, PYB 5w-30, GC 0w-30, or whatever else with a semi-modern specification somewhere in the 30 grade (or 40 grade even) you could care to throw at it.
The characterisation of 10w-30 as obsolete is correct. It doesn't mean it's uselss, but it's very, very rarely specified for anything new. The only cases where it's not obsolete are certain OPE and diesels.
Lots of people still wish to use it and do use it (I even do at times). People take "obsolete" as too much of an insult. My TRS-80 Model 4 still does exactly what it originally was intended to do and I could still do a great mount of business work on it. None of that changes the fact that it's highly obsolete.
Lots of people still wish to use it and do use it (I even do at times). People take "obsolete" as too much of an insult. My TRS-80 Model 4 still does exactly what it originally was intended to do and I could still do a great mount of business work on it. None of that changes the fact that it's highly obsolete.
My model year 2014 John Deere D140 lawn tractor also called for 10w30. The interesting part is that the engine manufacturer, B&S, seems to favor 5w30 synthetic or their own 15w50 synthetic for that same engine. I think that the machine makers aren't always in lock step with the engine manufacturers, and are often years behind.
I've had equipment manuals listing conflicting specs on different pages, so I'm not surprised. Run anything semi-suitable by way of viscosity and additives, and it'll be fine.
The worst I saw for oddball recommendations was an air compressor manual where one page said ND 30 and the facing page called specifically for M1 10w-30, which isn't exactly non-detergent, last time I checked.
The worst I saw for oddball recommendations was an air compressor manual where one page said ND 30 and the facing page called specifically for M1 10w-30, which isn't exactly non-detergent, last time I checked.
Originally Posted By: BAJA_05
Never heard of HOP 4 cycle oil that came with the mower? Plan on dumping the HOP 4 cylce oil after 4 or 5 cuts and refilling it with the T6 5W30 that I do have on hand. Hoping to get long life out of this mower overall. Thanks for all the advice also -- "greatly appreciated!!"
Dale
HOP means Husqvarna Outdoor Products nothing to worry about it is fine break in oil.
Never heard of HOP 4 cycle oil that came with the mower? Plan on dumping the HOP 4 cylce oil after 4 or 5 cuts and refilling it with the T6 5W30 that I do have on hand. Hoping to get long life out of this mower overall. Thanks for all the advice also -- "greatly appreciated!!"
Dale
HOP means Husqvarna Outdoor Products nothing to worry about it is fine break in oil.
I just bought a troy bilt walk behind awd with a b&s pro series 7.75 that calls for basically any 30wt. Just dropped the break in oil. I decided to run some Motorcraft 10w30 syn blend hdmo, because i grabbed a little from the bulk tank, and just to make sure the rings were seated. Mowed again and no smoke, runs great! Will probably use up the rest of the qt i grabbed on short intervals, and then switch to the Valvoline PBX 5w40 that i run in everything with an engine.
I'm a fan of ROTELLA T5 10w30. A good tough oil for my 20HP B&S. Ed
The ONLY reason these manufacturers are using 10w-30 is because of EPA mandates.
ALL push mower engine shoud use SAE30
ALL push mower engine shoud use SAE30
I just wanna know how many lawns are mowed in sub freezing temps? The classic B+S has a spur off the rod cap to whip the oil into a fog. This is an air cooled engine and they run hot, especially if the fins got clogged. Cold isn't a problem with mowers. Heat,oil shear and fuel dilution are the oil enemies. You could probably run 0w 20 if you want. Oil these days is that good, just keep it topped off.
Originally Posted By: Garak
The characterisation of 10w-30 as obsolete is correct. It doesn't mean it's uselss, but it's very, very rarely specified for anything new.
Just because it is not as commonly specified for new vehicles does not make it obsolete. It's available pretty much anywhere that sells oil in the US. Even if nothing new called for it there is still a HUGE amount of vehicles and other things that aren't really that old and call for 10w30...and will still need servicing for a long time to come.
I still favor it in most things...and it's a good multi-engine oil to have around. I recently bought a water pump with a clone of the B&S 2.5hp engine, I was surprised when the American written manual called for 10w30. Obviously won't be using a water pump much below freezing, like a mower.
The characterisation of 10w-30 as obsolete is correct. It doesn't mean it's uselss, but it's very, very rarely specified for anything new.
Just because it is not as commonly specified for new vehicles does not make it obsolete. It's available pretty much anywhere that sells oil in the US. Even if nothing new called for it there is still a HUGE amount of vehicles and other things that aren't really that old and call for 10w30...and will still need servicing for a long time to come.
I still favor it in most things...and it's a good multi-engine oil to have around. I recently bought a water pump with a clone of the B&S 2.5hp engine, I was surprised when the American written manual called for 10w30. Obviously won't be using a water pump much below freezing, like a mower.
Quote:
Just because it is not as commonly specified for new vehicles does not make it obsolete
There is still a sizable amount of 10W-40 available and folks
use it. Older vehicles, motorcycles, mowers, tillers, the list goes on.
My 2¢
Just because it is not as commonly specified for new vehicles does not make it obsolete
There is still a sizable amount of 10W-40 available and folks
use it. Older vehicles, motorcycles, mowers, tillers, the list goes on.
My 2¢
Originally Posted By: OilFilters
Just because it is not as commonly specified for new vehicles does not make it obsolete.
That pretty much is the definition of obsolete, though. As I said, it's not useless or harmful. However, as a PCMO, 10w-30 is obsolete. As an HDEO or for OPE, that's a little different.
Just because it is not as commonly specified for new vehicles does not make it obsolete.
That pretty much is the definition of obsolete, though. As I said, it's not useless or harmful. However, as a PCMO, 10w-30 is obsolete. As an HDEO or for OPE, that's a little different.
Originally Posted By: Garak
That pretty much is the definition of obsolete, though.
Incorrect. The actual definition of obsolete is this:
"no longer produced or used; out of date."
Considering 10w30 is one of THE most produced and used oils, it is far from obsolete...
That pretty much is the definition of obsolete, though.
Incorrect. The actual definition of obsolete is this:
"no longer produced or used; out of date."
Considering 10w30 is one of THE most produced and used oils, it is far from obsolete...
Check Merriam-Webster, which states, under 1. b), "of a kind or style no longer current." That's what I'm getting at here.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Check Merriam-Webster, which states, under 1. b), "of a kind or style no longer current." That's what I'm getting at here.
Currently most people still use it. It's definitely in the top 3 sellers of oil weights in the US. That is not obsolete by any definition...and is still recommended by a lot of equipment and diesel engines. The only reason it is not recommended for cars as often is because of the EPA and the 5w20 nonsense....which we all know has nothing to do with oil protection. Millions of cars that originally recommended 10w30 are still on the road, and their oil weight hasn't changed.
Check Merriam-Webster, which states, under 1. b), "of a kind or style no longer current." That's what I'm getting at here.
Currently most people still use it. It's definitely in the top 3 sellers of oil weights in the US. That is not obsolete by any definition...and is still recommended by a lot of equipment and diesel engines. The only reason it is not recommended for cars as often is because of the EPA and the 5w20 nonsense....which we all know has nothing to do with oil protection. Millions of cars that originally recommended 10w30 are still on the road, and their oil weight hasn't changed.
What's ironic is the trend toward smaller, single and multi turbo engines generating more horsepower per cubic inch than ever before using these comparatively lighter oils.
Those engines are much higher stressed and likely generating more concentrated heat per unit of fuel burnt. Either their cooling systems are remarkably efficient or these new light multi-grade oils are formulated very well to deal with the heat. I suspect it's a combination of both.
Considering the complexity & much higher output of power per c.i., it will we interesting to see how long a twin turbo 2 liter (122 c.i) engine putting out 245 h.p. will last?
https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2017-ford-escape-15l-ecoboost-fwd-test-review
Those engines are much higher stressed and likely generating more concentrated heat per unit of fuel burnt. Either their cooling systems are remarkably efficient or these new light multi-grade oils are formulated very well to deal with the heat. I suspect it's a combination of both.
Considering the complexity & much higher output of power per c.i., it will we interesting to see how long a twin turbo 2 liter (122 c.i) engine putting out 245 h.p. will last?
https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2017-ford-escape-15l-ecoboost-fwd-test-review
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