"New" 2000 Durango, 4.7...OC suggestions?

[HawkeyeScott]

I bought this seemingly well cared-for Durango last June for $3100. It had 111,000 miles with a nice, clean body and interior and a pretty good maintenance history. Soon after I got it, I put in Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 with a Wix filter. It basically sat till September when I sold my previous daily driver. Been driving it ever since.

I drive about 11 miles to work, mostly at about 35-40 mph, which is around 1700 RPMs. Takes me about 20-25 minutes. Doesn't see many long highway runs. I've got 4100 miles on the current fill and am wondering how long I should keep it in. I do have the famous Dodge 4.7 filler neck foam that started once it cooled off this fall. My goal with the Ultra was, despite seeing it had regular oil changes before I got it, to start cleaning out any sludge that might be in the motor. So I don't want to dump the oil before its time.

So what's a good OCI on this car with synthetic oil? Dino?

Thanks guys.

 

[901Memphis]

Can you see inside the fill hole too see how clean the drive train is? Probably a 7500 synthetic candidate. 5000 conventional. I'm sure you can go longer but I can't seem to find any 4.7 uoas to confirm that.

 

[KB2008X]

A good argument could be made for full synthetic and long oil change intervals, or synthetic blend and medium OCI, or dino and short OCI, or any number of plans. Considering the vehicle, the miles it has and your current use of it, I'd find a decent dino or synthetic blend with a decent filter and change at 5,000.

I do like the Pennzoil for cleaning things out, that makes sense considering.

The truth is, just about any cheap, name brand oil will work fine. If the engine gives out before you get to 250,000 it won't be because you used cheap, name brand oil.

 

[SEMI_287]

The foam is harmless. If it really bothers you that much you can do what I did and install a catch can. I drilled out the check ball in the pcv valve and took some epoxy and put a small washer in the end to provide some sort of metered orifice. I took an air compressor air/water seperator and plumbed it after the pcv vavle. Filler neck was as dry as a bone after that. Caught quite a bit of oil too. As for sludge pop a valve cover off. Its only 11 or 12 bolts. Wix 51515 and Purolater 30001 are oversize filters if you have the room.

 

[VNTS]

I have an 02 WJ, run any synthetic xw-30, change oil about every 5K.

there should be an insert in the oil filler tube to minimize oil snot. I would just wipe it out with a towel.

I would recommend you change the PCV Valve once a year with a mopar valve.

Go on the Durango boards and there is a TSB for the 4.7 for the PCV breather lines, they reconficured them at one point.


I would not attempt to save a a few bucks by extending the oil change intervals.

Also clean the IAC once a year, I just yank the TB and clean it.

I also have a 2000 Durango SLT+ with the 5.9.

Dont forget to change the other fluids in the T-case, diffs and trans. Also dont forget the coolant and power steering.

I have Amsoil ATF, and severe gear and the Amsoil PS Fluid in both the jeep and D.

Which t-case do you have the NV242 or NV231?

 

[HawkeyeScott]

Thanks for the comments so far.

Memphis - I can't see down the filler tube. (It doglegs.) I was surprised to see how few UOAs came up for the 4.7 when I searched there.


VNTS - When I got the thing I spent a few hundred bucks on parts and fluids, just to know what I had underneath me. I did transmission fluid (pan drop) and filters, plugs, front brakes, rear diff. fluid (80W-90, semi synthetic), transfer case drain/fill, PCV valve, power steering fluid, Techron run...besides the oil change. The coolant looks great. I still need to do the front differential.

What do you use to clean the idle air control? As for which transfer case I have, I'm not sure. Is one better than the other?

 

[VNTS]

I love Amsoil power foam to clean Throttle bodies and carbs.

The 242 has the full time, the 231 part time. 242 is one of the best T-case and best 4wd, none of the on demand non-sense, splits tourque 50/50 even on dry pavement.

It takes ATF+4 and easy to service via a couple pipe plugs. I would change the fluid in that periodically.

 

[AandPDan]

The insert in the filler tube came along later, after Dodge had a bunch of complaints about the foam. It's not a fix, just a disguise.

Only two transfer cases were offered. The NV231 and the NV241. The 231 is a part time transfer case and the 241 is a full time case with AWD and no 2wd.

Remove the throttle body to clean it, it's not difficult. The IAC passages get very dirty fast. Be careful removing the IAC valve and hit it with some good carb cleaner.

2000 Dakota 4.7 5 speed

 

[HawkeyeScott]

I've got the 231 then. I drained it over the summer and refilled it with ATF 4. It looked like it had been done pretty recently, but now I know for sure.

I will tackle that IAC soon. I did look at the TB when I first got the rig and it looked good.

 

[KCJeep]

Some great advice IMO especially by VNTS.

I think what you've done so far has been perfect, but I definitely agree the 4.7 is a poor candidate for extended OCI's, especially one with a rather unknown history. 5k OCI's on a premium high detergent full syn would be my strategy for it.

Two killers of the 4.7, poor maintenance and overheating. So don't overlook cooling system maintenance if it needs it.

 

[901Memphis]

Did some work for you and found some UOA's, enjoy.

2004 Dodge Ram 4.7L, 6700 mi, Penz Plat 5W30
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1848544


AMSOIL SSO 11k miles Dodge Durango 4.7L V8
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1643675

Mobil 1 5w30, 13,362 miles, 4.7L Dodge Dakota
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1008019

GC 0w30 04 Dodge Dakota 4.7 3450 miles
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=229623


2005 Dodge Ram 4.7L V8 5,050 Miles Mobil 1 5w30 EP
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2280889

2006 Dodge Durango 4.7L ASL 5.30 Amsoil About 15K
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=777374



Here is the search result if you want more.

https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=ww#hl=en&q=site:bobistheoilguy.com+dodge+4.7+uoa+used+oil+


Just type this into the google search engine and leave a space after it and then enter whatever you want.

site:bobistheoilguy.com

 

[HawkeyeScott]

Thanks!

 

[BrandonT]

KCJeep> curious why you think 4.7's are not good with longer OCI? Actually any background on this engine is appreciated, I've had mine (2001 Dakota w/ 172k) for 13 years and it has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. Engine doesn't seem hard on oil, but I've been pretty good about changing it before 4k. Switched to longer OCI about 3 years ago, or 24k, which amounted to basically changing the oil once a year. Up until then I used Mobil 1, after finding BITOG decided to try something else. Now use PP. I could probably go with a dino, but I like the cold start flow of a syn for a truck that is never garaged. Here is the UOA I did before starting longer OCI, last one thickened up some, but otherwise good.

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: BrandonT
KCJeep> curious why you think 4.7's are not good with longer OCI?


His is a totally different animal than yours. You're fine, you've had it forever, taken good care of it and used full syn to boot. That's exactly why yours is doing so well and will likely continue to do so.

His is a completely unknown quantity being "new to him" at 14 years old, totally different scenario. The 4.7 will sludge if neglected and he really has no idea what the insides of his look like, its history, nothing. Not a good set up to start doing extended OCI's on a known sludger (if neglected). JMO.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: BrandonT
KCJeep> curious why you think 4.7's are not good with longer OCI? Actually any background on this engine is appreciated, I've had mine (2001 Dakota w/ 172k) for 13 years and it has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. Engine doesn't seem hard on oil, but I've been pretty good about changing it before 4k. Switched to longer OCI about 3 years ago, or 24k, which amounted to basically changing the oil once a year. Up until then I used Mobil 1, after finding BITOG decided to try something else. Now use PP. I could probably go with a dino, but I like the cold start flow of a syn for a truck that is never garaged. Here is the UOA I did before starting longer OCI, last one thickened up some, but otherwise good.





Well here's an example on your own used oil analysis. On the 5000 mile run you've got 15ppm iron yet the 7000 mile run iron more than doubled to 32ppm.
In 2000 miles iron more than doubled.
Not that I put much if any real stock into the metal seen in a cheap used oil analysis but if a person was to consider them at least close then the iron doubling in such a short time after the 5000 mile threshold it could make an argument for shorter intervals.
At 5000 mile intervals I wouldn't use a synthetic though,unless of course it was bought on sale cheaper than conventional,then of course I'd run it but if I was buying oil when I was ready to change it and no sale was going on I'd use conventional.
And to be honest conventional seems to show better wear metal numbers on a 5000 mile interval. Where synthetic shines is at longer intervals the wear metals will trend down for longer which ends up potentially shedding less wear metals over the entire life of an engine.
Just my personal observations.

 

[BrandonT]

Yeah I may switch to the "new" PYB next oil change. Which would be next fall...so probably never since I'd like to buy the new GMC Canyon

 

[901Memphis]

Keep in mind at BITOG we are ocd. 32ppm iron is well within acceptable limits.

 

[HawkeyeScott]

Thanks, fellas. I went ahead and changed the Ultra out today. It was at 4300 miles and on the verge of needing some makeup oil. I'm sure the oil had life left in it, but at this stage of he game I'd rather jump the gun than wait too long.

I put in Quaker State high mileage, 10w30. Unfortunately, it looks like I slightly overfilled it with the full 6 qts. Going to pull about 12 oz. out tomorrow and go from there. Learning about this rig as I go...

 

[901Memphis]

I must say I think you pulled the Ultra early but not knowing before you got it I would have taken it 5k minimum. I thought the uoas I provided indicated synthetics held up for a long time in your engine.

That being said don't remove the extra oil, just leave it since it's consuming anyways, you can easily go almost a quart over in most vehicles with touching the crank.

 

[HawkeyeScott]

I'm sure I did. But it had been in there awhile, I had a good chance to do it today, and I was abut to have to add some new oil to it. I have two more batches of Ultra to throw in it down the line. I was wanting to get the HM in it to work on the seals and see if I can cut down on that consumption.

Thaose are all the excuses I can think of right now.