New '13 GT Mustang, Also, any true synthetics left
- Thread starter Travis1963
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Originally Posted By: buster
I'd stick with MC for awhile then move over to PU/M1. Would definitley not use Redline. Amsoil is good but I'm not sure of the benefit vs the latest syn lubes found at WM.
The OP could stick with MC forever.
In an alternate lube I agree PU 5W-20 or better still M1 0W-20 would be good choices.
RL doesn't make a true 20wt oil so they're out and Amsoil's SS oils are also somewhat heavier than necessary and not API approved.
I'd stick with MC for awhile then move over to PU/M1. Would definitley not use Redline. Amsoil is good but I'm not sure of the benefit vs the latest syn lubes found at WM.
The OP could stick with MC forever.
In an alternate lube I agree PU 5W-20 or better still M1 0W-20 would be good choices.
RL doesn't make a true 20wt oil so they're out and Amsoil's SS oils are also somewhat heavier than necessary and not API approved.
I feel better using the m/c 5w20 in my Fusion, although my gut told me to go with Synpower 5w20, I ignored it and went with the Ford recommended oil.. who says I don't fall for advertising now & then?
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: dparm
The "true" synthetics thing is a load of hogwash perpetuated by ignorance. Group III oils are synthetics, plain and simple.
I would use the Motorcraft oil without hesitation in that motor. It's not picky about oil at all.
Well said, the real synthetic "value proposition" wife's tale will never end...
When I first used Amsoil, I had a uforic feeling....then Neo oil told me Amsoil was not a true synthetic, and now Redline agrees.....LOL....Esters for ever!
Originally Posted By: dparm
The "true" synthetics thing is a load of hogwash perpetuated by ignorance. Group III oils are synthetics, plain and simple.
I would use the Motorcraft oil without hesitation in that motor. It's not picky about oil at all.
Well said, the real synthetic "value proposition" wife's tale will never end...
When I first used Amsoil, I had a uforic feeling....then Neo oil told me Amsoil was not a true synthetic, and now Redline agrees.....LOL....Esters for ever!
Originally Posted By: LargeCarManX2
When I first used Amsoil, I had a uforic feeling....then Neo oil told me Amsoil was not a true synthetic, and now Redline agrees.....LOL....Esters for ever!
Many Amsoil oils such as their Sig' Series are PAO based and therefore are "true syn's".
When I first used Amsoil, I had a uforic feeling....then Neo oil told me Amsoil was not a true synthetic, and now Redline agrees.....LOL....Esters for ever!
Many Amsoil oils such as their Sig' Series are PAO based and therefore are "true syn's".
Thanks for all the replies. I hate being a fence setter, but am finding it always difficult going conventional or synthetic. Good arguments either way. I have plenty of time to decide on this one. Based on my history of 3K changes (mostly unnecessary I know) I will probably go conventional because I like that feeling of putting new oil in often. I will go over 3K though. It is hot down here and our vacations are usually south west and to Florida. Maybe synthetics handling heat better will steer me that way.
A problem in defining a synthetic is there are so many different synthetics such as PAO, diesters, polyalkylene glycols, polyol esters, phosphate esters, cycloaliphatics, silicon fluids. If you are talking performance you need to define your synthetic and I am fine including Group III is that mix.
Travis 1963: I am surprised that only one other person recommended the oil that I am using: Motorcraft 5W20 Full Synthetic (not the blend).
Granted, you will have to pay a few extra $$$ to buy from the dealer to get it. You said you manage your vehicles with overkill - Motorcraft Full Synthetic is the overkill part. My understanding is that it contains a much higher percentage of group III components than Motorcraft blend.
My car is giving up a few hundred HP to your Mustang. However, I have used a few other oils for comparison (Toyota 0W20 and Havoline 0W20), and there is very little to be gained elsewhere under hard usage, that I can see. No engine vices, usage or strange engine noises.
As an alternative, try the Kendall 5W20 Full Synthetic (if you don't like going to the dealer). My understanding is that it is related to Motorcraft, with the addition of titanium.
Someone else will provide the link for the F150 "hero" engine teardown using Motorcraft 5W20 blend. It will sell you.
Granted, you will have to pay a few extra $$$ to buy from the dealer to get it. You said you manage your vehicles with overkill - Motorcraft Full Synthetic is the overkill part. My understanding is that it contains a much higher percentage of group III components than Motorcraft blend.
My car is giving up a few hundred HP to your Mustang. However, I have used a few other oils for comparison (Toyota 0W20 and Havoline 0W20), and there is very little to be gained elsewhere under hard usage, that I can see. No engine vices, usage or strange engine noises.
As an alternative, try the Kendall 5W20 Full Synthetic (if you don't like going to the dealer). My understanding is that it is related to Motorcraft, with the addition of titanium.
Someone else will provide the link for the F150 "hero" engine teardown using Motorcraft 5W20 blend. It will sell you.
First off congrats on that fine set of wheels. Comparing a 3v to a 4x really isn't fair. Sohc vs dohc just aren't in the same league.
Anyways my friend has a 2012 5.0. We drove that car off the lot on a Friday night,and went straight to the drag strip as it was test and tune night(almost think the delivery date was planned or something)
So before the engines first track pass it had 44kms on it. We ran it 15-20 times down the track,many of those were hot laps.
Once the track closed we drove around all night beating the living heck out of the car and shredding the tires.
We spent the rest of the weekend pounding on it,to insure proper ring seat of course and not once did it go into limp mode,nor show any signs of getting neutered.
So as far as oil suggestions go I'd use the motorcraft syn for the engines entire life.
Anyways my friend has a 2012 5.0. We drove that car off the lot on a Friday night,and went straight to the drag strip as it was test and tune night(almost think the delivery date was planned or something)
So before the engines first track pass it had 44kms on it. We ran it 15-20 times down the track,many of those were hot laps.
Once the track closed we drove around all night beating the living heck out of the car and shredding the tires.
We spent the rest of the weekend pounding on it,to insure proper ring seat of course and not once did it go into limp mode,nor show any signs of getting neutered.
So as far as oil suggestions go I'd use the motorcraft syn for the engines entire life.
Originally Posted By: Travis1963
Thanks for all the replies. I hate being a fence setter, but am finding it always difficult going conventional or synthetic. Good arguments either way. I have plenty of time to decide on this one. Based on my history of 3K changes (mostly unnecessary I know) I will probably go conventional because I like that feeling of putting new oil in often. I will go over 3K though. It is hot down here and our vacations are usually south west and to Florida. Maybe synthetics handling heat better will steer me that way.
Never a bad idea IMO, but your car has a larger sump and is shown to do well on quality Dino as well. Fear not for Ford has done well with their engineering here.
Thanks for all the replies. I hate being a fence setter, but am finding it always difficult going conventional or synthetic. Good arguments either way. I have plenty of time to decide on this one. Based on my history of 3K changes (mostly unnecessary I know) I will probably go conventional because I like that feeling of putting new oil in often. I will go over 3K though. It is hot down here and our vacations are usually south west and to Florida. Maybe synthetics handling heat better will steer me that way.
Never a bad idea IMO, but your car has a larger sump and is shown to do well on quality Dino as well. Fear not for Ford has done well with their engineering here.
The motorcraft is the best choice IMO. I would prefer it.
But remember you don't have to use it for your warranty. If you are partial to another brand remember Any API certified 5w20 meeting sm/sn should be warranty compliant. Check the manual to be sure. Just make sure you keep records if you are not having the dealer do it.
I always save receipts and take pictures of the odometer and of me pouring in the fresh oil, and also a pic of the part of the bottle stating the API and manufactures specs. It's good to have thorough records.
But remember you don't have to use it for your warranty. If you are partial to another brand remember Any API certified 5w20 meeting sm/sn should be warranty compliant. Check the manual to be sure. Just make sure you keep records if you are not having the dealer do it.
I always save receipts and take pictures of the odometer and of me pouring in the fresh oil, and also a pic of the part of the bottle stating the API and manufactures specs. It's good to have thorough records.
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