Need for low tooth count saw blades?

[JHZR2]

Ive used my compound miter saw the most for a wide variety of tasks. I have an 80 tooth and an 82 tooth Freud blade. Bought one of them first when new, bought the second because I was cutting some aluminum and the second one was rated for metal cutting.

I have a few lower tooth count blades, like a 24 tooth for my circular saw.

As I don't frame, and generally would like smoother and better cuts sooner on whatever I do, is there any reason to own/have low tooth count blades at all?

Essentially I have one that came with my compound saw, and Im wondering if I should sell that and/or the low count blades on my circular saws, and just have fine tooth blades on all my saws.

Is there a reason why this logic is flawed? For the amount of work and what I do, money isn't an object really if I ruin a blade, and I believe blades can be sent to the manufacturers for sharpening...

If Im not cutting a huge number of 4x4s or ripping plywood constantly, is there a good reason why I should hold on to low tooth count blades for a miter (less of a reason since it really is all finish type work) or circular saws?

Thanks!

 

[toneydoc]

You make take up a hobby like building bird houses one day. You don't need some fine cuts for that wood. You may put that 24 tooth blade to work with that project one day. Who knows, huh?

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: toneydoc
You make take up a hobby like building bird houses one day. You don't need some fine cuts for that wood. You may put that 24 tooth blade to work with that project one day. Who knows, huh?


That's true, but why wouldn't I want to use the same blade? I know changing blades doesn't take more than a few seconds, but still.

Similarly, is it prudent to buy a high tooth count blade for my circular saw? Right now I just have a 24 tooth blade on it...

 

[wrcsixeight]

I like keeping the high$$ high tooth count blades sharpest for the important tasks.

Low tooth count cuts faster. Blade heats up less. I don't want good blade getting resins caked on blade, as I find them expensive

 

[Kestas]

I imagine coarser teeth would not load up as quickly and clear the chips better for thick cuts.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
I imagine coarser teeth would not load up as quickly and clear the chips better for thick cuts.


What I do is 2x4 max. I use my 80-82 tooth blades on my miter saw all the time with zero issues.

Id suspect to need to cut "railroad ties" (6x6 or 8x8??) for some landscaping, but that situation may be entirely different and dealt with in the future...

Plywood with resins may be another story. Perhaps I need to dissociate the question:

1) Is it prudent to have a low tooth count blade for a compound miter saw? Right now I say no, but want to learn from others' perspective and experience.

2) Is it prudent to have a high tooth count blade for a circular saw? I woud assume that the answer is yes for getting a near-finish if not a final cut first time using a circular saw.

3) Is it prudent to have a high tooth count blade on a table saw? Id argue that this is used for both finish and bulk work, so that's an "it depends" matter... one angle may be dependent upon if one is more prone to kickback.

Thanks!

 

[IndyIan]

With the mitre saw, someday you might get into some recycled wood, or do a deck with 2x6 decking and 2x10,12 structure, so you don't need to burn up the expensive blades on that stuff.
I've used my mitre saw just to dice up off cuts for kindling too.
For the hassle of selling a low tooth blade now and then needing it next summer, I'd keep it for sure.
Also you can reverse it and cut stuff like aluminum trim, sheet metal.

 

[toneydoc]

Circular saw cuts in general are not precise, at least mine are not.

Miter saw cuts are usually very precise. Save the nice blade for miter and rough cut blades for the circular.

But then again, you may cut better with your circular than I do.

 

[spasm3]

Save the low tooth blade incase someone you know wants to borrow your saw.


I learned the hard way, never loan your saw out with the 80 tooth freud blade on it (even to family). Let them get their own blade if they want something better than the low tooth blade, or don't have a blade on it at all.

 

[Merkava_4]

Lower tooth count blades are for making cuts quickly that don't need a smooth finished cut, but I found by using a high quality blade, I can get a smooth finished cut even with a 24T blade. I can crosscut a 2x4 with a Diablo 24T blade and it'll look like it was cut with a 60T blade.

 

[spackard]

Chopping up old termite-infested wood furniture in order to get it to fit in the trash can.
Making 2x6 starter ramps for the Fit.

 

[ajchien]

Entry level low tooth count blades are not going to sell for very much money on the second hand market. For that reason, I'd keep them.

 

[expat]

Originally Posted By: ajchien
Entry level low tooth count blades are not going to sell for very much money on the second hand market. For that reason, I'd keep them.



Exactly.

Plus I'm sure there will be a time when you will want to build sothing like a Saw house of other rough carpentry, or even buck up scraps of wood for fire wood or ease of disposal
Just hang them on the wall for when you might need them.

 

[HangFire]

They're cheaper to buy, and cheaper to sharpen (less teeth, typically 50 cents per tooth). I put them on when I'm cutting stuff that might have nails in it.

 

[Wheel]

Low tooth count blades are usually for ripping wood with less chance of burning, and better clearing. They are also for working on thicker (2+ inches) wood. I believe some manufacturers list suggestions for # of teeth to the thickness.

I don't see a good use on a mitre saw for one, but they have a place on a table saw or circular saw.