Age brings lots of problems. You will have to rebuild all the parts that fail with age. I have been rebuilding for one of my friends a 65 GTO over the last year and a half that has been parked since 1984. Everything that needed replacing was as well as front disc install etc . Age has no mercy. A 79 is old.
need advice quickly - blown engine
- Thread starter ks911man
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Auto carriers don't drain the oil. We drive them onto the truck, tie them down and then reverse the process at the other end. Good luck.
Since the 79 Vette isn't really a collector, to me this would be a perfect excuse to throw in an LS1. Especially if your going to spend $4500. 350 to 400 hp would be easy and make that car a real sleeper.
If that engine really is 'blown'(putting a connecting rod through the block or pan)catastrophic failure that block may be no good .If it is a good rebuildable block ...do so ,if you want to keep it original(which that sounds like you want to).It'll be WAY less expensive,too.2k tops,,,with stock style goodies.
I think that chevy 350 was probably low on oil somewhat when you got it.Then being a new toy you played and drove it some with your foot in it.Thats normal.Those 350s or the ooes I've known over the years or worked on ALL used oil to a certain extent.Valve guides and seals or intakes sucking some oil.Then BOOM.I can see how it happened.Now a FRESH engine.Price a Jasper reman or a Crate GM Target engine for example.Its a couple grand.Price all he fliuds,plugs and other misc.items.Then labor.I can see $4 grand not being out of line.May be a little more but I bet not any less.
Originally Posted By: mcrn
Steve S and Pablo the OP stated in his original post the he knows I should have checked the oil.
Thanks, I misread that.
Steve S and Pablo the OP stated in his original post the he knows I should have checked the oil.
Thanks, I misread that.
Just a couple of thoughts.
Did the car just stop running?
Does it turn over?
I remember there being a 2 or 3 wire oil pressure sender used around this era on GM cars.If the oil pressure dropped below a certain PSI it would shut the electric fuel pump off.
If it turns over add some oil to the full mark and crank the engine it should start.
If it does not turn over just disregard this post.
Did the car just stop running?
Does it turn over?
I remember there being a 2 or 3 wire oil pressure sender used around this era on GM cars.If the oil pressure dropped below a certain PSI it would shut the electric fuel pump off.
If it turns over add some oil to the full mark and crank the engine it should start.
If it does not turn over just disregard this post.
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You need to find someone reputable to look at the situation for you.
You need to keep the original motor for posterity. If it is indeed blown, just remove it and crate it. If you decide at some point to sell the car, the next owner has the original engine if they decide to put it back to a matching numbers original.
Converting this to an LS1 is going to cost you at least 10 grand if you have someone else do all the work, I wouldn't even think about messing with that route.
Just get a performance crate motor. Something like a 383 small block that runs on pump premium and you should be able to get the engine and installation for less than the $4500 you were quoted.
Again, I would find a reputable shop and work with them. They should be able to get you running with a better engine than that factory slug.
As I said though, don't exchange the original as a core, keep it for the next guy in case he wants it. The cars' value will be better if you have the matching numbers original motor.(assuming it is the original)
You need to keep the original motor for posterity. If it is indeed blown, just remove it and crate it. If you decide at some point to sell the car, the next owner has the original engine if they decide to put it back to a matching numbers original.
Converting this to an LS1 is going to cost you at least 10 grand if you have someone else do all the work, I wouldn't even think about messing with that route.
Just get a performance crate motor. Something like a 383 small block that runs on pump premium and you should be able to get the engine and installation for less than the $4500 you were quoted.
Again, I would find a reputable shop and work with them. They should be able to get you running with a better engine than that factory slug.
As I said though, don't exchange the original as a core, keep it for the next guy in case he wants it. The cars' value will be better if you have the matching numbers original motor.(assuming it is the original)
Are you telling us that you bought a car, had it transported to you, and you never checked the fluids ? just started driving it around? and you`re admiting that?
Hey,beleive me it takes a BIG SET for this guy to throw himself on the mercy of THIS court ....I mean Forum.Give him some credit.
Kestas
Staff member
I'm with brsmith. I too am a stocker. I'm not a speed hound. I just like to drive cool cars. A car can be modified or "improved" many times over - just like you guys are dreaming - but it's original only once. It's ks911man's car, and he can do whatever he wants with his Corvette.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I remember there being a 2 or 3 wire oil pressure sender used around this era on GM cars.If the oil pressure dropped below a certain PSI it would shut the electric fuel pump off.
79 Vette has a mechanical fuel pump.
I remember there being a 2 or 3 wire oil pressure sender used around this era on GM cars.If the oil pressure dropped below a certain PSI it would shut the electric fuel pump off.
79 Vette has a mechanical fuel pump.
Assuming it just spun/scored a few rod and main bearings, I would rebuild the original block with new oem .03+ pistons and keep numbers matching everything. Make sure the rods are straight or straightened. Really adds to the resale, Plus corvette blocks are typ better iron than std pass car blocks and they will have the normal deck height v. a truck block. This engine would respond well to a nice cheater 2v short track cam say 208deg @ .05 and .430" lift with a close 108deg lobe splay (cL), Any bigger stick and you would need to do all kinds of "complimentary" work. Ive use Lunati kits in the past - dont even know if they are in business anymore
Originally Posted By: JT1
There is no way I would spend 4500 on a stock type rebuild, you could buy two NEW 350's for that price.
If it were mine(and I wish it was) I would go to jegs dot com, purchase the 96-00 chevy/gmc truck 5.7litre along with a vortec style edelbrock rpm intake(not the airgap as it won't fit under the stock hood) and a new HEI distributor from MSD. All of this will run you under 3500 and put you around 300 horsepower.
You will be able to bolt up your stock carb/exhaust manifolds to this also.
Numbers matching has got to be the most over-used and misunderstood term in the automotive restoring world. Numbers matching doesn't mean anything unless it's all ORIGINAL parts, or parts that were manufactured the SAME year as the car was. Good luck finding some NOS +.030 pistons, +.010 bearings, gaskets etc. This 4500 Numbers matching engine will likely be anything but.
I think he wants to keep it Stock. OP, do you wanna keep that Stingray STOCK? I wonder if you have the L88 8or L89.. Im not up on my vettes, but i thought id add my
before i went to sleep.
If anything like this EVER happened with my Pantera, id Shoot someone.
As to your Vette (Over on the Chevy side of things...)
1) Congrats on not getting a C4. Id buy one, but its simply a different Vehiicle.. an, in many people's minds, WORSE than the "180HP Cali Corvette.) .. im on the fence about the C4s.. I like them "Somewhat." And they can be had for $7000.
2) Do "Old-Fashioned Engine Testing."
a. See if the PULLEY Turns. (Did it Seize?)
b. DO a COMPRESSION TEST.
c. If you had STEEL Block and STEEL Head like a 1986 Volkswagen Jetta i had.. you can survive a MASSIVE OVERHEAT.. i talk from Experience.
And Lastly.. d. Thank GOD you didnt buy a 1979 or 1980 "Turbo Camaro/Firebord!"
Again.. Congrats on the Stingray. As a fellow Owner of a Rarity.. I vote you keep it Stock.
You make Monster Mods out of Beaters, or less-than-desireable Units... If not.. KEEP IT CLASSIC!
There is no way I would spend 4500 on a stock type rebuild, you could buy two NEW 350's for that price.
If it were mine(and I wish it was) I would go to jegs dot com, purchase the 96-00 chevy/gmc truck 5.7litre along with a vortec style edelbrock rpm intake(not the airgap as it won't fit under the stock hood) and a new HEI distributor from MSD. All of this will run you under 3500 and put you around 300 horsepower.
You will be able to bolt up your stock carb/exhaust manifolds to this also.
Numbers matching has got to be the most over-used and misunderstood term in the automotive restoring world. Numbers matching doesn't mean anything unless it's all ORIGINAL parts, or parts that were manufactured the SAME year as the car was. Good luck finding some NOS +.030 pistons, +.010 bearings, gaskets etc. This 4500 Numbers matching engine will likely be anything but.
I think he wants to keep it Stock. OP, do you wanna keep that Stingray STOCK? I wonder if you have the L88 8or L89.. Im not up on my vettes, but i thought id add my
If anything like this EVER happened with my Pantera, id Shoot someone.
As to your Vette (Over on the Chevy side of things...)
1) Congrats on not getting a C4. Id buy one, but its simply a different Vehiicle.. an, in many people's minds, WORSE than the "180HP Cali Corvette.) .. im on the fence about the C4s.. I like them "Somewhat." And they can be had for $7000.
2) Do "Old-Fashioned Engine Testing."
a. See if the PULLEY Turns. (Did it Seize?)
b. DO a COMPRESSION TEST.
c. If you had STEEL Block and STEEL Head like a 1986 Volkswagen Jetta i had.. you can survive a MASSIVE OVERHEAT.. i talk from Experience.
And Lastly.. d. Thank GOD you didnt buy a 1979 or 1980 "Turbo Camaro/Firebord!"
Again.. Congrats on the Stingray. As a fellow Owner of a Rarity.. I vote you keep it Stock.
You make Monster Mods out of Beaters, or less-than-desireable Units... If not.. KEEP IT CLASSIC!
So you guys are thinking that the engine may not be blown at all? Maybe the mechanic is snowballing this dude when it was nothing more than a blown fuse or something very minor?
This reminds me of that movie with Sean Penn called "No U-Turn", I think, and his Mustang breaks down in this out of the way town in the desert, and the mechanic (Billy Bob Thornton) slowly tears his car down to parade rest.
This reminds me of that movie with Sean Penn called "No U-Turn", I think, and his Mustang breaks down in this out of the way town in the desert, and the mechanic (Billy Bob Thornton) slowly tears his car down to parade rest.
You bought a 1979 mint condition Corvette with only 42,000 miles on it. I'm sure it's all original.There was a lot of value to those facts which led you to choose this car.I would do whatever you can to keep everything numbers matching.That means having that blown engine rebuilt and put right back in your vette.Do some research on the value/possibilty of that on your particular corvette. My experience with good running motors that sit a long time is that the dry rotting,sludge hardening, internal rusting, valve seals crusting, etc that goes on during those long rests will/could cause the engine to blow when put into regular duty. The only way I could explain the no oil on the dipstick is that the engine was probably a quart or 2 low when you got it. For it to use all of the oil on the dipstick you would have(or at least the people honking there horns behind you) would have noticed a trail of blue smoke out of the tailpipe.Especially since you say there were no visible leaks.
Good luck with it.
Good luck with it.
ks911man -
Could you be more specific as to having "blown" the engine - sounds/smell/behaviors that lead up to the engine not operating? Does it still turn over when you turn the key but just doesn't start or is it locked-up/seized?
Did you give the car a look over before driving it - fluids, tires, etc.?
Sorry to hear of you situation.
Could you be more specific as to having "blown" the engine - sounds/smell/behaviors that lead up to the engine not operating? Does it still turn over when you turn the key but just doesn't start or is it locked-up/seized?
Did you give the car a look over before driving it - fluids, tires, etc.?
Sorry to hear of you situation.
Was this thread a troll? Who would not check all fluids before driveing off on a purchase like this. And If I was driving anywhere, I would drive off to the nearest garage with a lift, firstly.
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Was this thread a troll? Who would not check all fluids before driveing off on a purchase like this. And If I was driving anywhere, I would drive off to the nearest garage with a lift, firstly.
X2 man. I was looking at Jeeps the other day for my kid. The first thing I do under the hood is pull the dipstick.
It's all about the fine tooth comb, especially this kind of a buy. Check everything! Never assume anything!
Was this thread a troll? Who would not check all fluids before driveing off on a purchase like this. And If I was driving anywhere, I would drive off to the nearest garage with a lift, firstly.
X2 man. I was looking at Jeeps the other day for my kid. The first thing I do under the hood is pull the dipstick.
It's all about the fine tooth comb, especially this kind of a buy. Check everything! Never assume anything!
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