Just field strip it and spray liberally with G96 Gun treatment aerosol. Flood the striker mechanism. The let it dry on a towel overnight. Then clean and oil as usual and re-assemble. If you want corrosion protection coat it liberally before you go boating next time.
My Smith and Wesson Shield and salt water
- Thread starter 15SilvyEcotec
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AZjeff
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Originally Posted By: billt460
There is nothing wrong with using WD-40 on anything if it's used to displace water. That is what the product is designed for. You obviously must blow it off with compressed air after removing it. Then relubricate with your favorite oil, and the weapon will be fine. I've been doing this to 3 Ruger Mark .22 pistols for years and thousands of rounds, rather than fighting trying to disassemble then reassemble them. WD-40 washes out all of the gunk, and it smells a lot better than Kerosene. I use this same method on all of my Glocks. WD-40 will not harm wood or plastic.
Again, after soaking in WD-40, give the entire gun a good blow dry with compressed at at 90 PSI, and the gun will be clean and dry. The people seem who have all of these problems and issues with WD-40, simply don't understand how to use it, or how it's meant to be used. It's not a Moon shot.
So you're buying WD-40 by the gallon just for this purpose? Can't argue with results and great idea on the Rugers. Not sure how you can be sure you've got it all blown out of the Glock slides though. Just seems too easy to pop the slide apart and clean it up the traditional way.
All I know is if I ever dunk a pistol it's coming apart.
My dad was in the cleaning camp of 1- patch the barrel, 2 - wipe it down with gun oil, 3 - squirt WD-40 into the action and bolt. Now that the guns are mine I have a real mess to disassemble and clean. Tried and tried to tell him WD isn't a lube but he wouldn't change.
What the heck is the big deal with disassembling a pistol slide??? Truly not rocket surgery..
There is nothing wrong with using WD-40 on anything if it's used to displace water. That is what the product is designed for. You obviously must blow it off with compressed air after removing it. Then relubricate with your favorite oil, and the weapon will be fine. I've been doing this to 3 Ruger Mark .22 pistols for years and thousands of rounds, rather than fighting trying to disassemble then reassemble them. WD-40 washes out all of the gunk, and it smells a lot better than Kerosene. I use this same method on all of my Glocks. WD-40 will not harm wood or plastic.
Again, after soaking in WD-40, give the entire gun a good blow dry with compressed at at 90 PSI, and the gun will be clean and dry. The people seem who have all of these problems and issues with WD-40, simply don't understand how to use it, or how it's meant to be used. It's not a Moon shot.
So you're buying WD-40 by the gallon just for this purpose? Can't argue with results and great idea on the Rugers. Not sure how you can be sure you've got it all blown out of the Glock slides though. Just seems too easy to pop the slide apart and clean it up the traditional way.
All I know is if I ever dunk a pistol it's coming apart.
My dad was in the cleaning camp of 1- patch the barrel, 2 - wipe it down with gun oil, 3 - squirt WD-40 into the action and bolt. Now that the guns are mine I have a real mess to disassemble and clean. Tried and tried to tell him WD isn't a lube but he wouldn't change.
What the heck is the big deal with disassembling a pistol slide??? Truly not rocket surgery..
Originally Posted By: Al
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
dissemble the slide in the 13 seconds it will take to do so, dunk the slide/parts in soapy water,
Are you saying to remove the striker, striker safety, etc? Or just the spring/barrel?
Well I tend to do things right the first time and not half donkey things, so I would take off the slide cover plate, striker, springs, firing pin block, etc and clean out the firing pin channel to make sure no salt water remained.
You want to completely disassemble it as you dont want any left over lube, water, or other solvents in the striker channel. You want it spotlessly clean with only the tiniest sheen of CLP on the firing pin.
Smith & Wesson Shield slide disassembly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZVxnethifI
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
dissemble the slide in the 13 seconds it will take to do so, dunk the slide/parts in soapy water,
Are you saying to remove the striker, striker safety, etc? Or just the spring/barrel?
Well I tend to do things right the first time and not half donkey things, so I would take off the slide cover plate, striker, springs, firing pin block, etc and clean out the firing pin channel to make sure no salt water remained.
You want to completely disassemble it as you dont want any left over lube, water, or other solvents in the striker channel. You want it spotlessly clean with only the tiniest sheen of CLP on the firing pin.
Smith & Wesson Shield slide disassembly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZVxnethifI
So yesterday I put a snap cap in the gun and pulled the trigger and the trigger felt very heavy and the snap of the striker was delayed. This is my daily carry gun but I do have a XD-S 45 I have been using until I can trust this tool for the job.
I found a good you tube video such as the one above. I took the slide apart and was amazed and not rust but the amount of junk in there. I do carry this gun all the time and even when doing yard work, mowing or running the weed eater and such. I used gun scrubber and blew every thing dry with compressed air and lightly oiled it with Hoppes gun oil and wiped it down. I took it to the range and ran 100 rounds problems free. I may wait a week and look at it again before I carry it.
One thing that has not been mentioned was the magazine springs looked like they were corroding. I am just gonna replaced them with new and then retest the gun. After new springs and a recheck I will carry it again. The frame seems fine. I think I will clean it like this more often. On a side note I dont use WD-40 but have been known to use Ballistol. Great stuff
I found a good you tube video such as the one above. I took the slide apart and was amazed and not rust but the amount of junk in there. I do carry this gun all the time and even when doing yard work, mowing or running the weed eater and such. I used gun scrubber and blew every thing dry with compressed air and lightly oiled it with Hoppes gun oil and wiped it down. I took it to the range and ran 100 rounds problems free. I may wait a week and look at it again before I carry it.
One thing that has not been mentioned was the magazine springs looked like they were corroding. I am just gonna replaced them with new and then retest the gun. After new springs and a recheck I will carry it again. The frame seems fine. I think I will clean it like this more often. On a side note I dont use WD-40 but have been known to use Ballistol. Great stuff
Originally Posted By: 15SilvyEcotec
I took the slide apart and was amazed and not rust but the amount of junk in there. I do carry this gun all the time and even when doing yard work, mowing or running the weed eater and such. I used gun scrubber and blew every thing dry with compressed air and lightly oiled it with Hoppes gun oil and wiped it down.
Which is what I do with every auto pistol slide after I field strip it after firing. I use Kerosene or WD-40 instead of Gun Scrubber because Gun Scrubber acts like a refrigerant, and can chill the metal it contacts enough to cause condensation on internal parts. This is especially true in humid climates. This can cause rust if you are not able to dry it completely with compressed air. Kerosene will evaporate leaving the metal clean and dry with zero chance of condensation forming. Using WD-40 the same way WILL NOT lead to the "gooey mess" everyone likes to associate with this product. You simply have to use plenty of compressed air at a high enough pressure to assure all of it is blown out along with all of the dirt and contaminates.
If you are concerned about your lubricant congealing, use ATF. It will remain liquid, and never congeal like many of these so called "gun lubricants" will, like Frog Lube and Fireclean that are made from plant esters that can and will go rancid with time. A quart of ATF costs a couple of bucks, and will last the average shooter a lifetime.
I took the slide apart and was amazed and not rust but the amount of junk in there. I do carry this gun all the time and even when doing yard work, mowing or running the weed eater and such. I used gun scrubber and blew every thing dry with compressed air and lightly oiled it with Hoppes gun oil and wiped it down.
Which is what I do with every auto pistol slide after I field strip it after firing. I use Kerosene or WD-40 instead of Gun Scrubber because Gun Scrubber acts like a refrigerant, and can chill the metal it contacts enough to cause condensation on internal parts. This is especially true in humid climates. This can cause rust if you are not able to dry it completely with compressed air. Kerosene will evaporate leaving the metal clean and dry with zero chance of condensation forming. Using WD-40 the same way WILL NOT lead to the "gooey mess" everyone likes to associate with this product. You simply have to use plenty of compressed air at a high enough pressure to assure all of it is blown out along with all of the dirt and contaminates.
If you are concerned about your lubricant congealing, use ATF. It will remain liquid, and never congeal like many of these so called "gun lubricants" will, like Frog Lube and Fireclean that are made from plant esters that can and will go rancid with time. A quart of ATF costs a couple of bucks, and will last the average shooter a lifetime.
Wow sticking with it huh?
May I suggest Ballistol CLP spray, G96 aerosol CLP spray, or RemOil aerosol CLP - all SUPERIOR products to WD40, and you dont have to worry about getting it all out. None of these products turn into sticky varnish after sitting for a year or two. I've used them all as gun cleaning sprays and find them absolutely 1000% superior to WD40.
Just say no to WD40. It's for the children.
Originally Posted By: billt460
If you are concerned about your lubricant congealing, use ATF. It will remain liquid, and never congeal like many of these so called "gun lubricants" will, like Frog Lube and Fireclean that are made from plant esters that can and will go rancid with time. A quart of ATF costs a couple of bucks, and will last the average shooter a lifetime.
Well finally something we can agree on. ATF works fine, but it dies clothes and stinks, so I tend to avoid it. But Fireclean and Frogpuke are absolute JUNK, JUNK, JUNK.
May I suggest Ballistol CLP spray, G96 aerosol CLP spray, or RemOil aerosol CLP - all SUPERIOR products to WD40, and you dont have to worry about getting it all out. None of these products turn into sticky varnish after sitting for a year or two. I've used them all as gun cleaning sprays and find them absolutely 1000% superior to WD40.
Just say no to WD40. It's for the children.
Originally Posted By: billt460
If you are concerned about your lubricant congealing, use ATF. It will remain liquid, and never congeal like many of these so called "gun lubricants" will, like Frog Lube and Fireclean that are made from plant esters that can and will go rancid with time. A quart of ATF costs a couple of bucks, and will last the average shooter a lifetime.
Well finally something we can agree on. ATF works fine, but it dies clothes and stinks, so I tend to avoid it. But Fireclean and Frogpuke are absolute JUNK, JUNK, JUNK.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Wow sticking with it huh?
I generally do when something has worked for over 4+ decades.
Wow sticking with it huh?
I generally do when something has worked for over 4+ decades.
Originally Posted By: Al
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aQQjfnJlvU
Washing your Shield. About 8 min mark.
I don't have enough expletives in my vocabulary to tell you how many stupid things I saw in that video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aQQjfnJlvU
Washing your Shield. About 8 min mark.
I don't have enough expletives in my vocabulary to tell you how many stupid things I saw in that video.
Originally Posted By: Al
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aQQjfnJlvU
Washing your Shield. About 8 min mark.
That is why they made automatic dishwashers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aQQjfnJlvU
Washing your Shield. About 8 min mark.
That is why they made automatic dishwashers.
Originally Posted By: 15SilvyEcotec
We took the boat out recently and I had the shield in the center console in a holster and a padded gun case. We caught fish and had bloody decks so I used my raw water wash down system while in the water to pre-clean the decks. My console has rod holders with clear water lines that drain the water back on deck. One of the hoses had popped off and the gun was soaked.
I have rinsed it with fresh water and then field stripped it twice and used gun scrubber and oiled it heavy and let it sit for a day and wiped it down and put it back together. I see no rust but should I totally take it down, as in push pin and all. I am worried about the striker fire system? Thanks guys
I'd probably be happy just removing the striker assy. and cleaning that out. I'd keep lube out of the striker channel though. Maybe wipe the parts down, and wipe them very well afterward. You don't want lube in this part of a striker fired weapon.
We took the boat out recently and I had the shield in the center console in a holster and a padded gun case. We caught fish and had bloody decks so I used my raw water wash down system while in the water to pre-clean the decks. My console has rod holders with clear water lines that drain the water back on deck. One of the hoses had popped off and the gun was soaked.
I have rinsed it with fresh water and then field stripped it twice and used gun scrubber and oiled it heavy and let it sit for a day and wiped it down and put it back together. I see no rust but should I totally take it down, as in push pin and all. I am worried about the striker fire system? Thanks guys
I'd probably be happy just removing the striker assy. and cleaning that out. I'd keep lube out of the striker channel though. Maybe wipe the parts down, and wipe them very well afterward. You don't want lube in this part of a striker fired weapon.
Originally Posted By: Ws6
I'd probably be happy just removing the striker assy. and cleaning that out. I'd keep lube out of the striker channel though. Maybe wipe the parts down, and wipe them very well afterward. You don't want lube in this part of a striker fired weapon.
G96 Synthetic gun oil will not cause any issues in the striker mechanism. It will not freeze or gum up. I use it in all of my handguns and rifle firing mechanisms. It works really well on the Ar15 bolt assembly.
I'd probably be happy just removing the striker assy. and cleaning that out. I'd keep lube out of the striker channel though. Maybe wipe the parts down, and wipe them very well afterward. You don't want lube in this part of a striker fired weapon.
G96 Synthetic gun oil will not cause any issues in the striker mechanism. It will not freeze or gum up. I use it in all of my handguns and rifle firing mechanisms. It works really well on the Ar15 bolt assembly.
Last edited:
Let me qualify my last remark that I do blow out the striker part with air so there is only a small oil or clp coat on the striker if any.
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: Ws6
I'd probably be happy just removing the striker assy. and cleaning that out. I'd keep lube out of the striker channel though. Maybe wipe the parts down, and wipe them very well afterward. You don't want lube in this part of a striker fired weapon.
G96 Synthetic gun oil will not cause any issues in the striker mechanism. It will not freeze or gum up. I use it in all of my handguns and rifle firing mechanisms. It works really well on the Ar15 bolt assembly.
Lube does not belong in the striker channel. No-matter what kind of lube it is. Your clarification below makes sense. I personally wipe the parts off after initially lubing them on first install, and never lube them again. The rest of the pistol, yes. But not that.
Originally Posted By: Ws6
I'd probably be happy just removing the striker assy. and cleaning that out. I'd keep lube out of the striker channel though. Maybe wipe the parts down, and wipe them very well afterward. You don't want lube in this part of a striker fired weapon.
G96 Synthetic gun oil will not cause any issues in the striker mechanism. It will not freeze or gum up. I use it in all of my handguns and rifle firing mechanisms. It works really well on the Ar15 bolt assembly.
Lube does not belong in the striker channel. No-matter what kind of lube it is. Your clarification below makes sense. I personally wipe the parts off after initially lubing them on first install, and never lube them again. The rest of the pistol, yes. But not that.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Wow sticking with it huh?
May I suggest Ballistol CLP spray, G96 aerosol CLP spray, or RemOil aerosol CLP - all SUPERIOR products to WD40, and you dont have to worry about getting it all out. None of these products turn into sticky varnish after sitting for a year or two. I've used them all as gun cleaning sprays and find them absolutely 1000% superior to WD40.
Just say no to WD40. It's for the children.
Originally Posted By: billt460
If you are concerned about your lubricant congealing, use ATF. It will remain liquid, and never congeal like many of these so called "gun lubricants" will, like Frog Lube and Fireclean that are made from plant esters that can and will go rancid with time. A quart of ATF costs a couple of bucks, and will last the average shooter a lifetime.
Well finally something we can agree on. ATF works fine, but it dies clothes and stinks, so I tend to avoid it. But Fireclean and Frogpuke are absolute JUNK, JUNK, JUNK.
I do have Ballistol and Rem oil. I really like the Ballistol and coat the suspension system for my saltwater trailer with it, stuff like the springs and such. You just have to get by the smell. On a side not I have fell in love with the XD-S and still love the Nano so after the shield is good to go I will find it a new home. Thanks guys
Wow sticking with it huh?
May I suggest Ballistol CLP spray, G96 aerosol CLP spray, or RemOil aerosol CLP - all SUPERIOR products to WD40, and you dont have to worry about getting it all out. None of these products turn into sticky varnish after sitting for a year or two. I've used them all as gun cleaning sprays and find them absolutely 1000% superior to WD40.
Just say no to WD40. It's for the children.
Originally Posted By: billt460
If you are concerned about your lubricant congealing, use ATF. It will remain liquid, and never congeal like many of these so called "gun lubricants" will, like Frog Lube and Fireclean that are made from plant esters that can and will go rancid with time. A quart of ATF costs a couple of bucks, and will last the average shooter a lifetime.
Well finally something we can agree on. ATF works fine, but it dies clothes and stinks, so I tend to avoid it. But Fireclean and Frogpuke are absolute JUNK, JUNK, JUNK.
I do have Ballistol and Rem oil. I really like the Ballistol and coat the suspension system for my saltwater trailer with it, stuff like the springs and such. You just have to get by the smell. On a side not I have fell in love with the XD-S and still love the Nano so after the shield is good to go I will find it a new home. Thanks guys
Originally Posted By: 15SilvyEcotec
I have fell in love with the XD-S and still love the Nano so after the shield is good to go I will find it a new home. Thanks guys
Not a critism as I have gotton rid of a number of guns, taking losses every time.
XD-X is much heavier than the Shield. So to me, the Shield is a better carry pistol. It is also a tack driver and dead nuts reliable. But having said that, I bought a Ruger which has a better trigger and is probably potentially a better carry gun. It has had a couple stovepipes though so I am not ready to carry it yet.
After that I bought the Glock 43. It is the best of the 3 (for me). It just feels right. I guess I am saying is make sure XD-X. Is the "right one". Or be like me and keep buying another one till you find the "right one".
Oh and I don't now intend to sell my Shield or LC8s.
I have fell in love with the XD-S and still love the Nano so after the shield is good to go I will find it a new home. Thanks guys
Not a critism as I have gotton rid of a number of guns, taking losses every time.
XD-X is much heavier than the Shield. So to me, the Shield is a better carry pistol. It is also a tack driver and dead nuts reliable. But having said that, I bought a Ruger which has a better trigger and is probably potentially a better carry gun. It has had a couple stovepipes though so I am not ready to carry it yet.
After that I bought the Glock 43. It is the best of the 3 (for me). It just feels right. I guess I am saying is make sure XD-X. Is the "right one". Or be like me and keep buying another one till you find the "right one".
Oh and I don't now intend to sell my Shield or LC8s.
Originally Posted By: Ws6
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: Ws6
I'd probably be happy just removing the striker assy. and cleaning that out. I'd keep lube out of the striker channel though. Maybe wipe the parts down, and wipe them very well afterward. You don't want lube in this part of a striker fired weapon.
G96 Synthetic gun oil will not cause any issues in the striker mechanism. It will not freeze or gum up. I use it in all of my handguns and rifle firing mechanisms. It works really well on the Ar15 bolt assembly.
Lube does not belong in the striker channel. No-matter what kind of lube it is. Your clarification below makes sense. I personally wipe the parts off after initially lubing them on first install, and never lube them again. The rest of the pistol, yes. But not that.
Yeah that is about what I do. I do clean my guns regularly and blow them out with my compressor. On first cleaning I lube them really good and let em sit overnight on a rag and dry. Then blow out and wipe down. After that just basic cleaning.
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: Ws6
I'd probably be happy just removing the striker assy. and cleaning that out. I'd keep lube out of the striker channel though. Maybe wipe the parts down, and wipe them very well afterward. You don't want lube in this part of a striker fired weapon.
G96 Synthetic gun oil will not cause any issues in the striker mechanism. It will not freeze or gum up. I use it in all of my handguns and rifle firing mechanisms. It works really well on the Ar15 bolt assembly.
Lube does not belong in the striker channel. No-matter what kind of lube it is. Your clarification below makes sense. I personally wipe the parts off after initially lubing them on first install, and never lube them again. The rest of the pistol, yes. But not that.
Yeah that is about what I do. I do clean my guns regularly and blow them out with my compressor. On first cleaning I lube them really good and let em sit overnight on a rag and dry. Then blow out and wipe down. After that just basic cleaning.
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