My Saturn Turned 150,000 Miles!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Originally Posted By: Nick R
I've been telling ya for some time now mike, get rid of that junker.
grin.gif
Sounds like my cavalier. Though I didn't need a rad, and my alternator lasted till 130k miles...


Some of us don't have parents that co-sign on new car loans.


Critic's parents just got a new altima this year. I doubt they would want to cosign and have two possible car payments if critic forgets to pay a new car note
grin2.gif



Hey I never said he had to get a new car... Just a different one. There comes a point where the cost outweighs the benefit of keeping an old car going.
grin.gif
 
This thread has devolved into an explanation of how everything is going wrong with Critic's car. Several people have chimed in with "I have ___ and have only done maintenance items in ___ miles, your car is a real junker". Looking through the list Critic made, probably 75-80% of the items on the list are what I am guessing most here consider "maintenance items" and several are items I suspect most of the people on this forum wouldn't even bother fixing.

Quote:

1) 2 Sets of Front Brake Pads (89k, 147k)
2) Front Brake Rotors (147k)

3) Front Calipers (147k)
4) 2 Sets of Rear Brake Pads (89k, 115k)
5) Alternator (63k)
6) 2 Serpentine Belt Tensioners and Serpentine Belts(89k and 148k)
7) A/C Recharge (Summer 2009)
8) PCV Breather Hose (60k)

9) Starter (102k)
10) Oxygen Sensor, upstream (114k)
11) Transmission Valve Body Cover gasket (50k, but fixed at 98k)
12) Valve Cover and Spark Plug Tube Seals (98k, but was leaking for a while)
13) 3 Motor Mounts
14) 3 Batteries
15) Radiator (129k)
16) Heater Core (~140k)
17) Thermostat, radiator hoses and cap (121k)
18) Water Pump (~147k)
19) F/R Struts and Front Strut Mounts (129k)
20) Rear Sway Bar End Links (Not sure, but definitely before 100k)
21) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (never broke, but replaced it before it would cause the infamous driveability problems)
22) Trunk Wiring Harness (wires snapped, friend respliced the wires)



Just as a rough example... I also think many here would consider alternators and radiators to be pretty "common" regardless of the car.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: pbm
Sort of Off Topic:
What is the best weight/type of oil for the Saturn S series?
I bought a 2002 SL1 5 speed last year (with 77K) and I haven't even registered it yet. Now that gas is heading upwards it might be a good time.
I've heard that the oil burning issue was mostly solved by 2002.
Does this motor like thinner or thicker oils?


5w30 winter, 15w40 summer if you're burning, 10w30 if you aren't. My saturns like 5w30 maxlife and valvoline full syn. Get the long filter for a 3L ford, 20195/3600 so you can find it next time you're underneath.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: pbm
Sort of Off Topic:
What is the best weight/type of oil for the Saturn S series?
I bought a 2002 SL1 5 speed last year (with 77K) and I haven't even registered it yet. Now that gas is heading upwards it might be a good time.
I've heard that the oil burning issue was mostly solved by 2002.
Does this motor like thinner or thicker oils?


5w30 winter, 15w40 summer if you're burning, 10w30 if you aren't. My saturns like 5w30 maxlife and valvoline full syn. Get the long filter for a 3L ford, 20195/3600 so you can find it next time you're underneath.



Thanks, that's what I was looking for.
Does full synthetic help with the (poor) ring design?
 
It just sounds happy.

My 96 would build up oil on the piston tops (unburnt) when idling or going down a hill. Punch the gas and it would burn it all at once, knock, and retard timing. 15w40 cured this.

The 02s are supposed to have better rings like my 00 which is passable right now at 1 qt/ 800 miles or so. They also have a better computer and run smoother and have a better rod ratio.
 
Besides the end links and struts it all seems like something I could do, never done a trans gasket either ( but I have a 5spd). Other than that the only other down is oil burning.

Im guessing you have crank windows as you havent replaced the motors. I got my SC2 at 117k and it already had a new window motor and at 160k it went out again. I guess manufacturers really dont care what happens after warrany because they could give us simple quality instead of the cheap frills.

On my Saturn, from 117k to 190k (Nov 08-Nov 10) I've done pads/rotors, radiator, thermostat/upper hose, sunroof broke, drivers window broke, cruise control module (easy $15 minute $40 fix from the JY and works great since, it was doing like yours and intermittently working), tensioner, 2 water pumps, ECTS, battery.

Other than that its just been spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and other, simple maintenance items like belts and filters.

127200 serp belt (was the original) $15
127500 ECTS $10
129,800 stat but had been bad for a while $15
141907 radiator (Delphi) $100
147713 fuel filter/FPR $100
148933 wires, nothing wrong just chasing a diagnosis $free
162325 EGR valve, it didnt work any better so i just blocked it off with $.50 and dont let off the gas in 5th gear $40
164470 Battery $60
164170 cruise control module (It had been bad for as long as i can remember when riding with the PO) $40
169300 parking brake lever $2
171688 Water pump (ate the belt on its way out so did that too) $35
174153 tensioner $60
180000 had to add PS fluid since swapping it out at 120k
183025 water pump (old one just 10k and was weeping out) $warrnanted

Thats all I've done in just over 70,000 miles. I would be happy to only have to spend $100 every 10,000 miles for repairs and it looks like I'm spending less than that on maintenance AND repairs. Have been buring at 1qt/3000 miles until last oil change with Mobil5k and now it burns like that until 3-4k then it shoots up to 1qt/1500 miles.


So I've spent less than $400 dollars on repairs in 70k and have been stranded when the water pump broke. Once I was just about to leave town and the belt started squealing. It had enough to get me 10 miles back to the house with a bad tensioner. So far Im well below my $100/10k rule, but will probably go way off base when the clutch gives up the ghost.


What doesnt work is the sunroof (we had it sealed), the motor was bad and it wasnt sealing properly. The rear defroster went away when I pulled the door chime (I hate those things, who cannot tell on a 2dr they had a door open?). The driver's window motor died. The AC I went without last summer and give it a few cans this March and its been great since. The recirculate feature is sometimes slow to act. The shifter works fine but you have to hammer on it to get into first at a standstill sometimes. PO I think put in a starter, window motor, 4 speakers and a valve cover gasket set. I don't know what else was done prior. The radio with equalization is superb. Sounds great and is loud enough (and clear) to hear going 65mph back when I could roll my windows down.
 
Other than typical maintenance items, the only serious repairs my Subie has had are a water pump and viscous coupler in the transmission. The car has 109,000 miles on it now.

Compared to the GM cars that come into our shop for steering racks, power steering pumps and struts at 40 or 50,000 miles, I think thats pretty good!

Our shop has also done a boatload of transmissions at around 50K, that's a joke! I've always been an import guy, don't see any reason to switch yet.
 
I call [censored] on struts at 50k.

Most cars go to the junkyard on the original struts, GM models included.

That's not because they don't wear out--it's because the average driver doesn't notice or doesn't care about the deterioration in handling.
 
Originally Posted By: subiedriver


Compared to the GM cars that come into our shop for steering racks, power steering pumps and struts at 40 or 50,000 miles, I think thats pretty good!

Our shop has also done a boatload of transmissions at around 50K, that's a joke! I've always been an import guy, don't see any reason to switch yet.


I have never heard of boatloads of transmissions going out at 50K miles or struts going out at 50K miles either...These cars you are talking about must be beaten to death big time.

Besides generally maintenance my Panthers need nothing till 250K miles and only minor things till 400K miles.

I have never owned a import car nor do I ever intend to.
 
Originally Posted By: CROWNVIC4LIFE

Besides generally maintenance my Panthers need nothing till 250K miles and only minor things till 400K miles.


I think mine needs new shocks..but it has 271K on it, and I have no idea if or when they were last replaced.
 
One month here and I counted about a dozen Saturn Outlook's getting reman transmissions, our techs were pulling them out left and right. We do steering racks religiously around 50K, the cars come in here and they are leaking bad. Also, I've seen quite a few gm cars with blown struts at around 50K, leaking like a seive. Based on what I've seen over 5 years in this shop, no GM cars for me. I've never been impressed with GM engineering, nothing's changed there, lol.
 
Originally Posted By: brianl703
I call [censored] on struts at 50k.

Most cars go to the junkyard on the original struts, GM models included.

That's not because they don't wear out--it's because the average driver doesn't notice or doesn't care about the deterioration in handling.



My G6 had the front struts replaced(rears will be done soon) at 35k. Struts were squeaking and its commonly known they don't last long. Once they were off, both were hand compressible and did not push back out and remained in the compressed state.

My 04 Xterra had all 4 shocks replaced at 30k. All 4 were hand compressible and did not push back out either. In fact every Xterra owner I have spoken to in person and on the forums have stated theirs were SHOT at 20-25k. I am a firm believer that shocks/struts should be checked or replaced around that mark. Cars get more expensive and they just keep trying to cut costs on them.

World of difference on both vehicles when they were replaced.
 
Congrats Critic! My 99 SL2 just passed the 175,000 mile mark. Runs like new. Smokes a little and uses pretty much oil. What sold me on Saturn was what I got for the money I had. I have cruise, auto, power everything, and a remote starter. I was actually trying to test drive a 98 Civic at the Saturn dealership. The driver's side mirror fell off when washed at the Saturn dealership. The rest is history. What I love about Saturn is the simple layout for some regular maintenance items like transmission fluid and filter, air filter, and PCV. I never was very good at working on cars. Back in 1976 I was expected to repair the defective carb on our brand new Duster. No experience and very little guidance available. There is a ton of repair info online for these cars. You may not like your Saturn, but compared to my Pinto it is a luxury ride.

PS There is a nice BOGO special on Valvoline oil at Orielly's. Details are here:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2065071#Post2065071
 
I'm hoping my Neon will get well beyond 150,000 miles. I think a few rubber things are going due to age at this point so its not free to run it but the engine and trans seem happy enough so the rest of it seems to be worth replacing.
Even at ~140K miles/16 years the struts still seem to be fine, I had the fronts off this summer and did the compression by hand check and they both rebounded smoothly so I put them back in with some newer slightly stiffer ACR springs and they seem to damp fine, no pogo stick and the tires maintain contact on the road and track pretty good. The rears seem fine too, no dribbling basketball effect and the back end stuck on the bumpy corners on the track so they are doing the job.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
I'm hoping my Neon will get well beyond 150,000 miles.


I know a couple of people who have Neons and couple of people who have Saturns and will have to say the Neon is a much better car maintenance wise.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Im guessing you have crank windows as you havent replaced the motors. I got my SC2 at 117k and it already had a new window motor and at 160k it went out again. I guess manufacturers really dont care what happens after warrany because they could give us simple quality instead of the cheap frills.

On my Saturn, from 117k to 190k (Nov 08-Nov 10) I've done pads/rotors, radiator, thermostat/upper hose, sunroof broke, drivers window broke, cruise control module (easy $15 minute $40 fix from the JY and works great since, it was doing like yours and intermittently working), tensioner, 2 water pumps, ECTS, battery.

Yes, I do have crank windows. The LF one has been squeaking for years, but it has not broken. I will have to look for a new module from the junkyard for the cruise control, thanks; though, the GM system comes back with a TSB stating to check the brake switch first as that can cause intermittent cruise control failure.

Originally Posted By: pbm
Sort of Off Topic:
What is the best weight/type of oil for the Saturn S series?
I bought a 2002 SL1 5 speed last year (with 77K) and I haven't even registered it yet. Now that gas is heading upwards it might be a good time.
I've heard that the oil burning issue was mostly solved by 2002.
Does this motor like thinner or thicker oils?


I have never used anything other than 5w30 conventional oil.

Originally Posted By: cchase
This thread has devolved into an explanation of how everything is going wrong with Critic's car. Several people have chimed in with "I have ___ and have only done maintenance items in ___ miles, your car is a real junker". Looking through the list Critic made, probably 75-80% of the items on the list are what I am guessing most here consider "maintenance items" and several are items I suspect most of the people on this forum wouldn't even bother fixing.

Quote:

1) 2 Sets of Front Brake Pads (89k, 147k)
2) Front Brake Rotors (147k)

3) Front Calipers (147k)
4) 2 Sets of Rear Brake Pads (89k, 115k)
5) Alternator (63k)
6) 2 Serpentine Belt Tensioners and Serpentine Belts(89k and 148k)
7) A/C Recharge (Summer 2009)
8) PCV Breather Hose (60k)

9) Starter (102k)
10) Oxygen Sensor, upstream (114k)
11) Transmission Valve Body Cover gasket (50k, but fixed at 98k)
12) Valve Cover and Spark Plug Tube Seals (98k, but was leaking for a while)
13) 3 Motor Mounts
14) 3 Batteries
15) Radiator (129k)
16) Heater Core (~140k)
17) Thermostat, radiator hoses and cap (121k)
18) Water Pump (~147k)
19) F/R Struts and Front Strut Mounts (129k)
20) Rear Sway Bar End Links (Not sure, but definitely before 100k)
21) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (never broke, but replaced it before it would cause the infamous driveability problems)
22) Trunk Wiring Harness (wires snapped, friend respliced the wires)



Just as a rough example... I also think many here would consider alternators and radiators to be pretty "common" regardless of the car.

To BITOGers or old-timers who are mechanically-inclined, then yes, you are correct.

However, to most of the younger generation (such as myself) and most consumers, routine maintenance is limited to spark plugs, serpentine belts (not tensioners), filter changes, fluid changes, bulbs, batteries, brake pads and brake rotors. Components such as hoses (especially the newer ones made from EPDM), alternators, starters, radiators, water pumps, etc are designed to last the life of the vehicle, which should be about 150,000 miles. A number of those items on my car started failing well before 100k and before the 8 year mark, which is completely acceptable to me.

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Knowing Critic myself, I think a lot of the repair is "keeping up with perfection".


You and my dad would be good buddies. My dad's philosophy of car repair/maintenance is to change the oil at the minimum intervals required, and fix all other items when a warning light comes on or if the car breaks down on the side of the road.
 
Originally Posted By: DT466E_bus
How much did all this cost?


Good question:

Brakes:
1) 2 Sets of Front Brake Pads (89k, 147k)
2) Front Brake Rotors (147k)
3) Front Calipers (147k)
4) 2 Sets of Rear Brake Pads (89k, 115k)

89k: Front and Rear Pad Replacement + Turn Rotors= $220 (shop)
115K: Rear Pads and Rear Rotors= $110
147k: Front pads, rotors and calipers= $125

Total: $455


5) Alternator (63k) $300(also included new serpentine belt too, apparently)

6) 2 Serpentine Belt Tensioners and Serpentine Belts(89k and 148k)
Tensioner + Belt at 89k: $210 at a shop.
Tensioner + Belt at 148k: $98

Total: $308

7) A/C Recharge (Summer 2009) $40
8) PCV Breather Hose (60k) $8
9) Starter (102k) $160(DIY)
10) Oxygen Sensor, upstream (114k)$70
11) Transmission Valve Body Cover gasket (50k, but fixed at 98k)$15 and way too much time as I was an idiot when I was in high school
12) Valve Cover and Spark Plug Tube Seals (98k, but was leaking for a while) $40?
13) 3 Motor Mounts $150??
14) 3 Batteries $150, two batteries actually, 1 was a warranty replacement
15) Radiator (129k)$250, shop
16) Heater Core (~140k) $250, shop
17) Thermostat, radiator hoses and cap (121k) $120
18) Water Pump (~147k) $50
19) F/R Struts and Front Strut Mounts (129k)$275 +$85 for alignment
20) Rear Sway Bar End Links (Not sure, but definitely before 100k) $60
21) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (never broke, but replaced it before it would cause the infamous driveability problems)$15??
22) Trunk Wiring Harness (wires snapped, friend respliced the wires) free

Headgasket (this one just developed this month, it's an external leak that has been mostly stopped thanks to Bar's Leak's Liquid Aluminum Solution)$8 bottle of Bar's Leak Liquid Aluminum solved it

Grand total
: $2606

Grand total minus brakes pads/rotors and batteries: $2071
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic

You and my dad would be good buddies. My dad's philosophy of car repair/maintenance is to change the oil at the minimum intervals required, and fix all other items when a warning light comes on or if the car breaks down on the side of the road.


Reminds me of my stepfather. He tends to let things go a year or so after the first sign of problems occur. I remember putting a new motor mount on his Corsica. The engine was rubbing the frame when he asked me to listen to some noises in his car.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom