MULTIMETER RESULTS! Running: 14.2V, OOC 13.V Good?

[SuperFast]

I boug ta MULTIMETER! Awww, its on now.

(And 6 spark plugs, AC Delco R42TS
ND extension
AND im ready

Now, i tested the battery with the car on and running, lights on if i recall correctly...

14.19 Volts!!!!

Then took battery out off car... 13.3 Volts!!!

Is this good, and should i take ift off the "1 amp charger" i have? how are these results?

And hen do i "Test it again?" (Battery voltage)

 

[eljefino]

You are good. 13.3 volts engine off is high, sign of a surface charge. Go back tomorrow morning, run the high beams for five minutes (engine off) and you should be around 12.7, temperature depending.

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
You are good. 13.3 volts engine off is high, sign of a surface charge


I suspected this. I try to charge it on the "1 Amp manual charger" to get THROUGH the surface charge? Is 12 hourts on 1 Amp enough tome to kind of slowly let the slow electrons get to the base of the battery?

(The car HAs been hunning HOURS these past few days.. good 1- hours at least! Idling for a few, driving.. trust me ive been letting it clean up, Seafoam treatment etc.) and also WOT and also Highway, 85MPH on bridges idle for an hour, clearing it out, etc etc...

is my 1A charge a good idea? is the battery "Good"

Or do i need new or slower charger or a C-TEK to break through that, maybe even "Desulfate" mode?

 

[SuperFast]

*gah* almost forgot, my starter Is going out, it makes the whirr noise mid-crank at me sometimes

 

[eljefino]

You don't need the charger. A surface charge is sort of an "overcharge" that settles into the battery as it sits.

Or in other words if you ran your headlights for five minutes it'd drop a few 1/10s of a volt then hold real steady for a long time as the main charge gets depleted, then drop off rather quickly again later.

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
You don't need the charger. A surface charge is sort of an "overcharge" that settles into the battery as it sits.

Or in other words if you ran your headlights for five minutes it'd drop a few 1/10s of a volt then hold real steady for a long time as the main charge gets depleted, then drop off rather quickly again later.


Hmmmmm.

So, you are saying, i need to take it OFF the charger, and gradually deplete it? (I cant really judge thow dim the lights get when i crank it, im not sure what results "poor man load test" gives)

Is my battery "Toast" ?

 

[SuperFast]

I ask because i can take it off charger ASAP ... Ill check voltage on it before i do to see if it dropped....

 

[SuperFast]

... OK! Result:

1) Plugged in to wall, on 1Amp charger.. 15.74 Volts!! (While on the charger)

seems high.. Bad?

2) Within two minutes of taking oit off the charger, unplugging charger from wall first.. 13.9 Volts.

I will check again in _ (please tell me how long) to report back voltage.
EDIT: 20 minutes later, it is at 13.55 Volts.

So.. i turn high beams and i guess radio (?) on for 5 minutes, thing is, i need to find my "Acc" position. Sometimes the car started and died as hte chpoke is wide open, and i heard what sounded like the spark pluggs firing when the key was in "ignition" position...

.. this batter is OK if i drain it a bit ? First time having this happen. In my effort to keep it from being undercharged....

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Yesm what shall i do.. sounds as if some "draining" is in order! )

What about a half hour w/highbeams on ?

 

[eljefino]

Just leave it alone. The charging system will give it the right amount of current. You don't need to drain and you don't need to charge anything.

If it will amuse or enlighten you, run the lights for five minutes and take another reading. But no reason to do so.

 

[mechtech2]

Before you install the plugs, use you resistance reading on the multimeter to check the plugs. They should be similar, with no opens.
[From the center tip to the connector end.]

Then make sure there are no shorts [center to ground].

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Before you install the plugs, use you resistance reading on the multimeter to check the plugs. They should be similar, with no opens.
[From the center tip to the connector end.]

Then make sure there are no shorts [center to ground].


It runs pretty good. All new ones, and wires, are in., I sprayed some PB Blaster on them before putting the wires on. Runs pretty good.

The old ones were burnt at the base. i can post pics.

 

[eljefino]

Oil isn't good for the rubber in your plug boots. You should have used silicone or nothing.

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Oil isn't good for the rubber in your plug boots. You should have used silicone or nothing.


So that shot of PB blaster in every plug boot on both ends didnt help anything?

.. or is it no big deal

PS: I sprayed it IN them, in/on the metal, in the "cup" as it goes down inside of the boot. Not ON THEM

i already know about PB Blaster and rubber. I sprayed PB Blaster around my carb, now im wondewring.. whats going on with the carb when the car is Off intermittent drip..

 

[mechtech2]

Don't worry about one shot around the carb. [Don't do it every day!]

The only problem is it may 'burn off' and what it leaves may actually make the plug boots stick more, after a while.

Give a gentle twist first before pulling up on a boot [to break it free]