I have no clue how to read a data sheet or even post one and have even less knowledge of motul oils. This stuff is cheap and I'd like to use it in an 09 altima 2.5, 08 impala 3.9 and my daughters oil burning 09 g6 with the 2.4. These cars all call for 5-30 but this appears to be a true synthetic. Is motul thin, thick, good or bad. It's obviously getting cold in ohio but the 5w should be satisfactory at cold starts but will the 40w be to thick to flow through oil passage ways. All these cars are in excess of 100 btw.
Motul 6100 5-40
- Thread starter D1dad
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It's actually a blend of synthetic and conventional basestocks. That's what they mean by "technosynthese".
Motul is legit.
6100 5W-40 is going to be significantly thicker than what your cars normally spec, though not thick enough to blow an engine any time soon. Expect longer warm-up times and higher peak oil temps. The oil meets some pretty tough specs for wear resistance etc. Impossible to say what the long-term effects would be.
Is this stuff really cheaper than a more mainstream 5w30 synthetic (e.g. Mobil 1) from Wal Mart?
Motul is legit.
6100 5W-40 is going to be significantly thicker than what your cars normally spec, though not thick enough to blow an engine any time soon. Expect longer warm-up times and higher peak oil temps. The oil meets some pretty tough specs for wear resistance etc. Impossible to say what the long-term effects would be.
Is this stuff really cheaper than a more mainstream 5w30 synthetic (e.g. Mobil 1) from Wal Mart?
Originally Posted by d00df00d
It's actually a blend of synthetic and conventional basestocks. That's what they mean by "technosynthese".
Motul is legit.
6100 5W-40 is going to be significantly thicker than what your cars normally spec, though not thick enough to blow an engine any time soon. Expect longer warm-up times and higher peak oil temps. The oil meets some pretty tough specs for wear resistance etc. Impossible to say what the long-term effects would be.
Is this stuff really cheaper than a more mainstream 5w30 synthetic (e.g. Mobil 1) from Wal Mart?
$17 for 5 liters so I think so.
It's actually a blend of synthetic and conventional basestocks. That's what they mean by "technosynthese".
Motul is legit.
6100 5W-40 is going to be significantly thicker than what your cars normally spec, though not thick enough to blow an engine any time soon. Expect longer warm-up times and higher peak oil temps. The oil meets some pretty tough specs for wear resistance etc. Impossible to say what the long-term effects would be.
Is this stuff really cheaper than a more mainstream 5w30 synthetic (e.g. Mobil 1) from Wal Mart?
$17 for 5 liters so I think so.
I got 20 liters of 8100 X-Clean+ 5W30 for $45 total off Amazon... you just have to watch daily for sales. I just stick everything in my cart and pop in once a day to see if there have been price changes until it gets to where I feel like buying.
Originally Posted by D1dad
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Is this stuff really cheaper than a more mainstream 5w30 synthetic (e.g. Mobil 1) from Wal Mart?
$17 for 5 liters so I think so.
Wow. That's cheap. Though compared to other synthetic blends, it's less of a deal.
I dunno. Based on what you said, I'd want to run Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 or something. At least, I'd try that before upping the viscosity. But I can't say the Motul 6100 5W-40 would be a bad choice.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Is this stuff really cheaper than a more mainstream 5w30 synthetic (e.g. Mobil 1) from Wal Mart?
$17 for 5 liters so I think so.
Wow. That's cheap. Though compared to other synthetic blends, it's less of a deal.
I dunno. Based on what you said, I'd want to run Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 or something. At least, I'd try that before upping the viscosity. But I can't say the Motul 6100 5W-40 would be a bad choice.
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
I got 20 liters of 8100 X-Clean+ 5W30 for $45 total off Amazon... you just have to watch daily for sales. I just stick everything in my cart and pop in once a day to see if there have been price changes until it gets to where I feel like buying.
If this was in response to my answer I will clarify. The original post has been edited and other posts deleted. The OP stated that he got the oil for far far less than even the $45 you've mentioned.
Usually if the prices are too low to believe and it's an online source, the buyer takes their chances on what they are really getting.
I got 20 liters of 8100 X-Clean+ 5W30 for $45 total off Amazon... you just have to watch daily for sales. I just stick everything in my cart and pop in once a day to see if there have been price changes until it gets to where I feel like buying.
If this was in response to my answer I will clarify. The original post has been edited and other posts deleted. The OP stated that he got the oil for far far less than even the $45 you've mentioned.
Usually if the prices are too low to believe and it's an online source, the buyer takes their chances on what they are really getting.
Pim, yes, it was partially towards yours... I was stating that I got Motul's "full syn" 8100 for about $2.25/qt. Main point being, with a wide swath of sellers having access to Amazon, sometimes product is moved at cheap prices so they can quit carrying it, and if you're watching closely you can score deals. While I like inexpensive deals on oil, I'm not willing to drive around the entire DFW metro like some of the guys here to pick up the deals. Fuel and mileage eats into the apparent savings vs. online discount purchases, and also why have 1000+ quarts on the shelf unless you're servicing a fleet?
And as the old standby horse here, are any of those syn blends really a deal at $17/gal when you can get 5qts of Warren syn d1G2 for $13.99 at Rural King?
And as the old standby horse here, are any of those syn blends really a deal at $17/gal when you can get 5qts of Warren syn d1G2 for $13.99 at Rural King?
That's a good point. It's all about price unless one doesn't care about that. The big argument here lately is that some want oils that are Group IV /V instead of looking at the specs. A lot of discussion on how Group 2+ and Group 3 oil's perform just as well or even better. Most oils are blends anyway and we generally don't know the percentages. Mobil 1 is the exception.
For someone changing their oil every 5k, that Rural King synthetic is a good choice.
For someone changing their oil every 5k, that Rural King synthetic is a good choice.
Originally Posted by PimTac
That's a good point. It's all about price unless one doesn't care about that. The big argument here lately is that some want oils that are Group IV /V instead of looking at the specs. A lot of discussion on how Group 2+ and Group 3 oil's perform just as well or even better.
The thing that I don't really get, is that probably 90% of those wanting Group IV/V oils don't:
1. Need these oils for adequate protection
2. Will never ever see a benefit to their engine from running these oils
3. As you pointed out, will likely see identical results (both engine lifetime and UOA) with Group II+/III+ oils if they are changing at OLM/OM mileages
4. Will likely spend 4x+ as much and the only "benefit" is to their ego.
That's a good point. It's all about price unless one doesn't care about that. The big argument here lately is that some want oils that are Group IV /V instead of looking at the specs. A lot of discussion on how Group 2+ and Group 3 oil's perform just as well or even better.
The thing that I don't really get, is that probably 90% of those wanting Group IV/V oils don't:
1. Need these oils for adequate protection
2. Will never ever see a benefit to their engine from running these oils
3. As you pointed out, will likely see identical results (both engine lifetime and UOA) with Group II+/III+ oils if they are changing at OLM/OM mileages
4. Will likely spend 4x+ as much and the only "benefit" is to their ego.
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
The thing that I don't really get, is that probably 90% of those wanting Group IV/V oils don't:
1. Need these oils for adequate protection
2. Will never ever see a benefit to their engine from running these oils
3. As you pointed out, will likely see identical results (both engine lifetime and UOA) with Group II+/III+ oils if they are changing at OLM/OM mileages
4. Will likely spend 4x+ as much and the only "benefit" is to their ego.
+1..all of this 👆
Originally Posted by PimTac
... A lot of discussion on how Group 2+ and Group 3 oil's perform just as well or even better. Most oils are blends anyway and we generally don't know the percentages. Mobil 1 is the exception.
For someone changing their oil every 5k, that Rural King synthetic is a good choice.
ðŸ‘
The thing that I don't really get, is that probably 90% of those wanting Group IV/V oils don't:
1. Need these oils for adequate protection
2. Will never ever see a benefit to their engine from running these oils
3. As you pointed out, will likely see identical results (both engine lifetime and UOA) with Group II+/III+ oils if they are changing at OLM/OM mileages
4. Will likely spend 4x+ as much and the only "benefit" is to their ego.
+1..all of this 👆
Originally Posted by PimTac
... A lot of discussion on how Group 2+ and Group 3 oil's perform just as well or even better. Most oils are blends anyway and we generally don't know the percentages. Mobil 1 is the exception.
For someone changing their oil every 5k, that Rural King synthetic is a good choice.
ðŸ‘
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Who cares if its group II or group 20 its about $30 over priced to meet my price point!
I run Motul in my Mustang GT (engine stays above 4k rpm's for much of its life) and I've ran many brands (Mobil1, Motul, Penn. Ult. Plat., and SuperTech) in the car and the Motul is the slowest to burn off out of the lot.
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