Motor Flush

NCGuy68 · Jul 6, 2013

Gents,

I'am in need of a quality over-the-counter motor flush/cleaner. I've used Amsoil brand in the past with good success but don't have any handy.

I've got NAPA, CARQUEST, Advance and Walmart near me.

Thanks in advance for knowledgeable replys Gentleman.

Garak · Jul 6, 2013

Amsoil's version is about the only one I'd trust unless I had "nothing to lose."

Donald · Jul 6, 2013

The normal question to ask is what makes you feel you need to fush your engine? Have you pulled a valve cover and looked at the valve train. If you have gooey sludge Amsoil should help. If you have crusted sludge then a good synthetic oil or Auto-Rx.

I would not suggest anything over the counter. If a chunk of sludge were to break free and clog an oil galley, you will regret doing the flush.

TechnoLoGs · Jul 6, 2013

I need to reluctantly admit that I lost an engine after using this product. Gradually, about two or three months later, and a gradual decline.

Engine ended up dropping a valve, and yes I can say it DIRECTLY related to the flush. "Gunk" flush, IIRC.

Never again.

Now.. Seafoam/Kreen/etc: Those are fine... But engine flush? NO!
*And even sometimes, I get paranoid about solvents int he crankcase.

NCGuy68 · Jul 6, 2013

Thanks Guys,

I just bought a 97 Nissan Pick-up with 197.500 miles on the clock. Haven't pulled the valve cover but there is a 'thin' film of sludge on the oil fill cap.

I could do the 'Ole 'add a half Qt of kerosene' and idle the motor. Yeah, I know. old fashioned but it worked on my vehicles in the past.

Your thoughts Gents?

tamedcowboy · Jul 6, 2013

I don't know. If you don't want to open up the motor then maybe have an oil analysis done.

toneydoc · Jul 6, 2013

How does the engine run? If it runs good and all you have is a "thin" film of sludge, I would be inclined to run several short intervals of PYB and give it a chance. At least that way you should not "break" off chunks of sludge.

4D-56 · Jul 6, 2013

Call your NAPA and see if they have a product made by Lubro Moly (german made) called Liqui Moly pro line Engine Flush.

Apart from Amsoil, this is now my only choice of flush.

dparm · Jul 6, 2013

I wouldn't bother with the flush. A few short-duration oil changes with a quality API SN oil should clean things out.

Most of those atom bomb-style treatments do more harm than good.

NCGuy68 · Jul 6, 2013

Originally Posted By: stro_cruiser
Call your NAPA and see if they have a product made by Lubro Moly (german made) called Liqui Moly pro line Engine Flush.

Apart from Amsoil, this is now my only choice of flush.

I know of this product line. Highly recommended by several ASE Masters in my area.

Thanks for the thought.

147_Grain · Jul 6, 2013

Originally Posted By: toneydoc
I would be inclined to run several short intervals of PYB and give it a chance. At least that way you should not "break" off chunks of sludge.

+1

Originally Posted By: dparm
I wouldn't bother with the flush. A few short-duration oil changes with a quality API SN oil should clean things out.

+1

sleddriver · Jul 6, 2013

I've used BG109. I had to make several calls to find it locally though. Start with their website.

Seabass · Jul 6, 2013

Are you running high OCI and only driving the car short distances? "thin film" makes me thing your condensation in the crank case may not be getting out. Shorten your OCI, consider running a qt or two (depending on capacity) of atf mixxed in with the oil if your really trying to "clean" the inside of the motor.

If you are doing short trips in the vehicle make a point of getting the car hot for an extended period to boil out condensation every once in a while.

Seabass · Jul 6, 2013

What kind of vehicle/ motor is it by the way?

Clevy · Jul 6, 2013

Originally Posted By: Seabass
Are you running high OCI and only driving the car short distances? "thin film" makes me thing your condensation in the crank case may not be getting out. Shorten your OCI, consider running a qt or two (depending on capacity) of atf mixxed in with the oil if your really trying to "clean" the inside of the motor.

If you are doing short trips in the vehicle make a point of getting the car hot for an extended period to boil out condensation every once in a while.

Sir. Is this post for real? Transmission fluid in the crankcase for cleaning purposes. That is absolutely absurd.
What's going on here. In the past weeks I've seen this whole transmission fluid in the crankcase nonsense almost daily,yet up til now it wasn't ever brought up.
If you could,would you please find some data on what detergents are in transmission fluid that aids it in cleaning a crankcase.

Disclaimer:
For any new member or non member reading this thread and this recommendation I ask you to please reconsider. Companies make products for the crankcase. Some you drive around with,others are an idle type flush. I strongly urge you to use a product that is formulated for such a task,and not to add transmission fluid to your engine.
Transmission fluid is formulated and additives for transmissions,not the volatile,dirty engine environment. Engine oil is made for that.
And just for the record there are countless transmission fluid specs out there. Which one exactly is the cleaner one,and which will clash with the additives in the oil,considering the API doesn't insure that engine oil and transmission fluid are compatible.
Stop the madness,end this nonsense please.

Garak · Jul 6, 2013

Originally Posted By: Clevy
In the past weeks I've seen this whole transmission fluid in the crankcase nonsense almost daily,yet up til now it wasn't ever brought up.

I agree. This silly idea has been cropping up a lot lately. Of course, my dad's uncle's neighbour's mechanic did it in the day, so it must be a good idea. Yeesh.

What bottle of ATF recommends it be used as an engine flush? What factory service manual calls for ATF in the crankcase? What motor oil label recommends the addition of ATF to enhance cleaning properties? Oh, that's right. Pennzoil got rid of the wax and replaced it with ATF. That must be it.

Merkava_4 · Jul 6, 2013

Forget the motor flush and start doing 1500 mile OCIs with Maxlife until the engine is clean. Flame suit on.

Clevy · Jul 6, 2013

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Forget the motor flush and start doing 1500 mile OCIs with Maxlife until the engine is clean. Flame suit on.

Well its certainly a far better idea then adding transmission fluid to the oil.

antiqueshell · Jul 6, 2013

Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
I would be inclined to run several short intervals of PYB and give it a chance. At least that way you should not "break" off chunks of sludge.

+1

Originally Posted By: dparm
I wouldn't bother with the flush. A few short-duration oil changes with a quality API SN oil should clean things out.

+1

Ding, ding, ding!

Those suggestions are exactly what you should do.

DO NOT USE A FLUSH PRODUCT!

NCGuy68 · Jul 7, 2013

Originally Posted By: Seabass
What kind of vehicle/ motor is it by the way?

I just bought this truck from a neighbor and it has sat unattended for 2 years.

1. 1997 Nissan 8B000 Pick-up truck.
2. Engine: KA24 - 2389cc 4 Cyl.
3. Trans: FS5W71C 5-speed.
4. Factory A/C, Power Steering, Step Bumper, Bed Liner.
5. Body: Two minor dents, no rust to speak of being a southern truck most of its life. All of the sheet metal seems solid but I haven't looked underneath yet.
6. Cooling system: Murky but nothing too 'cruddy' for lack of a better word.

After replacing the dead battery it fired right up with no blue exhaust smoke. No visable fluid leaks, the clutch hooked-up good and the transmission shifts just fine after a short drive. At this point I have 2 concerns:

1. The thin film of sludge under the oil cap.
2. The 'Battery' light is illuminated on the dash. Previous owner thinks the ALT is shot.

Thoughts/Recommendations Gents?

Motor Flush

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