Mobil1 5w30 EP/Extended Performance/Grp III or IV

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momomeister

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In doing my searches, so far I haven't been able to find any UOA on the Mobil1 5w30 Extended Performance oil. I just purchased a new 2008 G35 and plan on using that oil..

So I'm wondering if people have done UOA on this oil and what were the results?

Also, besides the M1 0w-40, which if I'm not mistaken, is a Group IV/PAO synthetic, are any of the other M1 oils Group IV, such as the 5w30 EP or their 5w-20?
 
I would but Infiniti (Nissan)is spec'ing 5w30.

I don't have a problem with going thinner on the low end, say to 0w-30. But I'm leery of going heavier on the high end, ie. 40 weight. I'm worried about the oil not getting through all the small passages at the flow rate required by the motor due to viscosity of the 40 weight..
 
If you take this advice seriously you will not waste your time barking up the wrong trees: never judge a synthetic oil on what you think or have heard the base oils are. It does not allow for valid performance conclusions to be drawn.

I have a 2004 G35. The owners' manual says even 10W-40 is acceptable to use. Does your manual not say that? I've used M1 0W-40 and quite like it...keeps oil consumption down and it's a long drain oil.
 
Back to the start of this thread. Does anyone know if there is any difference in performance, real life performance between Mobil 1 and EP? The package is different and the price is too. Would M1 for warranty intervals be a better choice than EP?
 
Mobil 1 EP has 50 % more additives in it so it can hold out longer. If you don't plan on going out to 10,000-15,000 mile oil changes and you are staying in the manufacturers recommended change interval it is probably not worth it.
 
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Dino or syn will be fine for Warranty drains.

If I was under warrenty and planned on runing the vach into the ground. I would run a syn I can get on sale.

Most times you can get 5 quarts and a filter for under 30 bucks.
 
Originally Posted By: momomeister
Checked the owner's manual. They specifically say 5w30.. No mention of 10w-40..
Bummer. Is 10w30 acceptable in your manual? Since you may be are stuck with 5w30, I think one of the best over the counter 5w30 oils is Pennzoil Platinum, based on UOAs. I recommend against M1 5w30, based on UOAs.
 
Originally Posted By: JAG
Bummer. Is 10w30 acceptable in your manual? Since you may be are stuck with 5w30, I think one of the best over the counter 5w30 oils is Pennzoil Platinum, based on UOAs. I recommend against M1 5w30, based on UOAs.


There is no mention of any other grade, just 5w30.

I think in the winter 0w30 would be OK. Summer, I'd prefer to stay with either 5w30, 5w-20, 0w-20, less viscous would be better I think.

Also, I know, it's the entire package that matters, not just the base stock...
 
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Originally Posted By: ZZman
Mobil 1 EP has 50 % more additives in it so it can hold out longer. If you don't plan on going out to 10,000-15,000 mile oil changes and you are staying in the manufacturers recommended change interval it is probably not worth it.


But is it a Group IV, PAO? That's what I'm most interested in.. On the packaging and marketing info, they say 50% more additives. So, is EP the "original" Mobil 1 before they changed the formulation?
 
Get the EP. EP has slightly more density than the M1, more super syn etc.,and is only $4-5 more at WM in the 5 quart jugs. I think it's slightly smoother than the regular M1.
 
On the TEOST test, Mobil 1 scored a 5.4, while Mobil 1 EP scored a 3.9. I believe this is a high temperature deposit test. Castrol syntec scored a 26.6. Mobil 5000 a 15. Mobil conventional oil beat Castrol Syntec. Syntec also failed the Honda Turbo spec.
 
If you have to run a Syn and stay within the warranty limits I'd do one of two things;

1. Run PP 5w30 (esp if you can get it on sale)

2. If you HAVE to pay full pop for the oil, become a preferred customer with Pablo or Gary and buy Amsoil 5w30 XL oil. I think it IS one of the best oils out there. PERIOD. For warranty OCIs, without doubt.

Much better than Mobil 1 5w30 anything.

Also, listen to what people are saying, its the WHOLE PACKAGE. Do NOT get caught up with Syn this, PAO that.

over 90% of the engines out there run just great with ANY oil for as many miles as you want to drive them.

Just follow the manual and you are good to go!

Take care and welcome!

Bill
 
I am sure it is a group III with some group IV mixed in. They will never tell you the % of the mix. If it was a group IV they would blab it all over the place and the extended drain intervals could be higher. They (Big name Oil companies)are marketing for price for the masses not performance for the few.
 
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I had good UOA's with Mobil 1 EP 5W-20 oil....with the exception of a slight amount of coolant from a leaking lower intake manifold gasket......but all the other numbers came in quite well,,, in spite of the low level of coolant.
I have not had a UOA done since the lower intake manifold gasket repair.
Myself......the difference in price to get the "50% more additives" was not an issue....I figure, what I save on having my oil changed, I'll spend on higher quality stuff.
I have a different oil in there right now......Redline, which is way overkill for my application....so even a UOA right now for me would not give you any more data to answer your question.

I, (not an expert) am BIG on staying with the manufacturers recommened oil viscosity.
I will say.....though it is unlikely with as new of a vehicle as you have......that manufacturers often issue TSB's that update the information in the owner's manual......so that is something to watch for in the future.

But....the short answer......my UOA's from 3 and 4 years ago......were good with the Mobil 1 EP in the 5W-20.
 
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Originally Posted By: ZZman
I am sure it is a group III with some group IV mixed in.
How did you figure that out?
Originally Posted By: ZZman
They will never tell you the % of the mix.
Do you know some of the base oil possibilities other than Groups III and IV? Are there different types and qualities of Groups II and IV?
Originally Posted By: ZZman
If it was a group IV they would blab it all over the place and the extended drain intervals could be higher.
Is that because using all Group IV is blab-worthy? Well, it does work with a certain crowd, but otherwise it's not. Does having all Group IV always allow longer drain intervals than a mix of Group IV and Group III? Could more complex base oil mixes allow longer drain intervals that one with all Group IV? What effect does the additive package have on longevity?
 
JAG:

To answer:

1. Probability
2. As I said they don't want to give a mix ratio. (Of what ever oil)
3. Is IV use blabworthy...yes. It is usually considered higher performance and quality so its use would be. Of course additive package makes a difference. But why does a straight Group III not have long drain intervals?
 
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