Sunruh's done alot of UOAs on a YZ250F and not many oils stand up to the punishment inflicted by those "oil-grinders" He only found 2 or 3 oils that didn't fall out of grade after just a couple hours (or hundred miles) of racing. None were synthetic. Check his posts for his UOAs.
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mobil 10w40 2hrs run time
- Thread starter harrisperformanc
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Sunruh, how did 10w40 superflow hold up in your bike?
I've been running it in my vfr cause it stopped noisey cam tentioner issues, been using it for the last 20,0000 miles or so.
When I first got the vfr I ran 5w40 rotella in the first 7,000 mile, the switched to amsoil till about 20,000 mile. I moved and started trying to save money, with the diesils and other several other mc oils. But I developed front tentioner klack, eventually I replaced after listening for 10,000 mile but noise came back shortly after couple thousand miles(wasted $100). By chance I stuck some valovine 10w40 in there being cheap and no more tentioner noise, but I didnt like the shift quality. on the next change I wentt to valvoline 20w50 in trying to gain shift quality and longer change intervals, but about 1000 mile tentioner noise came back. So It was go back to the 10w40, but happened to try the superflow in 10w40 and it had better shift quality, been on it ever since and I've had zero tentionaer noise in the last 20,000 mile. Bike has 63,000 on it.
car oil has its values I guess
I've been running it in my vfr cause it stopped noisey cam tentioner issues, been using it for the last 20,0000 miles or so.
When I first got the vfr I ran 5w40 rotella in the first 7,000 mile, the switched to amsoil till about 20,000 mile. I moved and started trying to save money, with the diesils and other several other mc oils. But I developed front tentioner klack, eventually I replaced after listening for 10,000 mile but noise came back shortly after couple thousand miles(wasted $100). By chance I stuck some valovine 10w40 in there being cheap and no more tentioner noise, but I didnt like the shift quality. on the next change I wentt to valvoline 20w50 in trying to gain shift quality and longer change intervals, but about 1000 mile tentioner noise came back. So It was go back to the 10w40, but happened to try the superflow in 10w40 and it had better shift quality, been on it ever since and I've had zero tentionaer noise in the last 20,000 mile. Bike has 63,000 on it.
car oil has its values I guess
superflo 10w40 like all other (1 exception) 10w40 turned into water in no time flat.
superflo sae30 finished with a higher vis even though it had MORE time on it!
the ONLY 10w40 i've had stay in grade and it was 2 widths of a bees **** from being out, was maxima extra4 10w40.
if i remember correctly (ha!) the vfr (love that bike btw) has gear driven cams. gears chew the [censored] out of oil.
can i interest you into trying the Castrol Syntec 0w30 (GC) that you find at autozone? very very good stuff. [censored] it beat the [censored] out of the 10w40s
p.s. guess i cant write - carp
superflo sae30 finished with a higher vis even though it had MORE time on it!
the ONLY 10w40 i've had stay in grade and it was 2 widths of a bees **** from being out, was maxima extra4 10w40.
if i remember correctly (ha!) the vfr (love that bike btw) has gear driven cams. gears chew the [censored] out of oil.
can i interest you into trying the Castrol Syntec 0w30 (GC) that you find at autozone? very very good stuff. [censored] it beat the [censored] out of the 10w40s
p.s. guess i cant write - carp
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Quote:
the ONLY 10w40 i've had stay in grade and it was 2 widths of a bees **** from being out, was maxima extra4 10w40.
The Maxima Extra 10w-40 starts at:
Viscosity cSt @ 40°C 82.2
Viscosity cSt @ 100°C 12.5
So it was at the border already and didn't really shear
at all.
How did you like the oil? Did it work well with your clutch?
I am thinking about using it for my next oil change in a few months.
the ONLY 10w40 i've had stay in grade and it was 2 widths of a bees **** from being out, was maxima extra4 10w40.
The Maxima Extra 10w-40 starts at:
Viscosity cSt @ 40°C 82.2
Viscosity cSt @ 100°C 12.5
So it was at the border already and didn't really shear
at all.
How did you like the oil? Did it work well with your clutch?
I am thinking about using it for my next oil change in a few months.
it seemed to be just fine.
the maxima 4extra 15w50 is probably the best oil i have tested.
and was only bested in viscosity by vr-1 sae50.
motul 5100 10w50 is a solid 3rd place. another very nice oil.
there has only been 1 oil i hated and could tell an immediate difference with and that was the Valvoline Motorcycle Specific 10w40 (had an atv on the lable) and that made the clutch so grabby that i wanted to dump it out 100 feet from the truck. i hated that stuff. replaced it with quaker state high horsepower and it was back to smooth as silk.
the maxima 4extra 15w50 is probably the best oil i have tested.
and was only bested in viscosity by vr-1 sae50.
motul 5100 10w50 is a solid 3rd place. another very nice oil.
there has only been 1 oil i hated and could tell an immediate difference with and that was the Valvoline Motorcycle Specific 10w40 (had an atv on the lable) and that made the clutch so grabby that i wanted to dump it out 100 feet from the truck. i hated that stuff. replaced it with quaker state high horsepower and it was back to smooth as silk.
Originally Posted By: sunruh
superflo 10w40 like all other (1 exception) 10w40 turned into water in no time flat.
superflo sae30 finished with a higher vis even though it had MORE time on it!
the ONLY 10w40 i've had stay in grade and it was 2 widths of a bees **** from being out, was maxima extra4 10w40.
if i remember correctly (ha!) the vfr (love that bike btw) has gear driven cams. gears chew the [censored] out of oil.
can i interest you into trying the Castrol Syntec 0w30 (GC) that you find at autozone? very very good stuff. [censored] it beat the [censored] out of the 10w40s
p.s. guess i cant write - carp
Sunruh,
0w30? why because it stayed in its grade, even if 10w40 falls out of its grade, it will still have thicker film strength than ow30
i can see with straight 30 and running to a max interval, it might out do a 10w40 in holding its viscostiy longer.
my oil change intervals are set up to dump at a 30 weight
clarify please
I've never messed with 0w30's ,but I've seen too many 40 weight drop to 30 in 1000 mile, cant imagine how low an 0w30 would be.
superflo 10w40 like all other (1 exception) 10w40 turned into water in no time flat.
superflo sae30 finished with a higher vis even though it had MORE time on it!
the ONLY 10w40 i've had stay in grade and it was 2 widths of a bees **** from being out, was maxima extra4 10w40.
if i remember correctly (ha!) the vfr (love that bike btw) has gear driven cams. gears chew the [censored] out of oil.
can i interest you into trying the Castrol Syntec 0w30 (GC) that you find at autozone? very very good stuff. [censored] it beat the [censored] out of the 10w40s
p.s. guess i cant write - carp
Sunruh,
0w30? why because it stayed in its grade, even if 10w40 falls out of its grade, it will still have thicker film strength than ow30
i can see with straight 30 and running to a max interval, it might out do a 10w40 in holding its viscostiy longer.
my oil change intervals are set up to dump at a 30 weight
clarify please
I've never messed with 0w30's ,but I've seen too many 40 weight drop to 30 in 1000 mile, cant imagine how low an 0w30 would be.
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while we are talking about viscosity, heres some info
Castrol r4 5w40, an excellent oil and super light weight I ran 2,ooo mile intervals. I ran it in a small motored bike that sustained long periods of high rpm(hours and hours) sustained. When the bike was new I did a valve check and there was a small pit in one of the cam lobes, by 25,000 mile that pit was gone. Only way for that to happen is lobe wear. I never noiced any degrade in power even at 40,000 mile, but the lobes did look more rounded.
This makes me concerned about too light weight oil and cam lobes. Too heavy weight makes me concerned too, cause some of these designs have ports to shoot oil on the piston skirts, heavy oil is a barrier to that function.
Castrol r4 5w40, an excellent oil and super light weight I ran 2,ooo mile intervals. I ran it in a small motored bike that sustained long periods of high rpm(hours and hours) sustained. When the bike was new I did a valve check and there was a small pit in one of the cam lobes, by 25,000 mile that pit was gone. Only way for that to happen is lobe wear. I never noiced any degrade in power even at 40,000 mile, but the lobes did look more rounded.
This makes me concerned about too light weight oil and cam lobes. Too heavy weight makes me concerned too, cause some of these designs have ports to shoot oil on the piston skirts, heavy oil is a barrier to that function.
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Moly can fill pits in friction surfaces.
I wasnt running any moly oils, and if I were, moly tends to be Black and you'd see that patch of the pit.
What happened though was the cam lobe wore to bottom of slight pit and it dissapeared.
Keep in mind this was on a bike that was running within 20% of redline for long periods of time, most street bikes dont see that.
What happened though was the cam lobe wore to bottom of slight pit and it dissapeared.
Keep in mind this was on a bike that was running within 20% of redline for long periods of time, most street bikes dont see that.
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Such bad numbers after 2 hours? I drove my 250cc for 18 hours at 11,000/14,500 rpm after changing its Rotella. It makes me wonder what the condition of the oil is in there right now. I need to change out that oil; I can tell when the oil thins out by the gear shifting action - with 30 weights and below the shifting is tentative and not as good as with new oil. That said, I'm going to try a 5000 mile run with Redline 10w-40 automotive oil and see what happens.
Did your 250 use any oil in that time frame?
Be careful with the redline,it doesnt meet the MA clutch gate requirement. I was on well into my second oil change on redline 10w40 when I started sensing mild slippage in top gear. I continued to ride for another 2 weeks thinking it was in my head. Then I took off up this huge 1 mile Hill under full throttle I hit top gear , and there was no question clutch was slipping. Back to known good clutch oil , no issue.
Its marginal clutch oil at best, but it is MB rated fluid, and bikes require MA for the clutch
Be careful with the redline,it doesnt meet the MA clutch gate requirement. I was on well into my second oil change on redline 10w40 when I started sensing mild slippage in top gear. I continued to ride for another 2 weeks thinking it was in my head. Then I took off up this huge 1 mile Hill under full throttle I hit top gear , and there was no question clutch was slipping. Back to known good clutch oil , no issue.
Its marginal clutch oil at best, but it is MB rated fluid, and bikes require MA for the clutch
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Originally Posted By: harrisperformanc
leaded race fuel used.
Engine has in excess of 50 hours, and is raced at a local professional level.
Engine shares transmission with engine oil. Doesn't look good!
50 hours with what kind of maintenance? If the answer is none, or little, it is wearing out at 50 hours. What kind of bike, stock, modified, heavily modified? Is the rider bouncing off the rev limiter? And I agree, 10-40 isn't the best choice for a typical 250cc MX 4 stroke.
leaded race fuel used.
Engine has in excess of 50 hours, and is raced at a local professional level.
Engine shares transmission with engine oil. Doesn't look good!
50 hours with what kind of maintenance? If the answer is none, or little, it is wearing out at 50 hours. What kind of bike, stock, modified, heavily modified? Is the rider bouncing off the rev limiter? And I agree, 10-40 isn't the best choice for a typical 250cc MX 4 stroke.
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I ran straight 30 weight in the vfr and it came out like water, even a 10w30 was significantly thicker than a straight 30 weight at full temp.
I dont know as far as protection how this plays out, straight 30 even though thinner, is pure oil molecule, where a 10w30 has thickener moluecules, that aides with staying thick, but I hear doent have very good lube qualities.
So I dont know what the real difference of protection, when you have this huge variance in vicosity.
I dont know as far as protection how this plays out, straight 30 even though thinner, is pure oil molecule, where a 10w30 has thickener moluecules, that aides with staying thick, but I hear doent have very good lube qualities.
So I dont know what the real difference of protection, when you have this huge variance in vicosity.
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