I'm running Mobil 1 5W30 extended performance. I ran 1/2 qt MMO for 2k mi with cheap (Supertech) dino oil after a cylinder head swap. Is it OK to run 1/2 qt MMO for a full 10k mi OCI? Sump capacity is 4 qts, so that's ~13% of sump capacity.
MMO for 10k mi OCI?
- Thread starter WA1DH
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You're running a 10k OCI interval without a baseline UOA?
Are you trying to cut vis or add extra cleaning or ?
Maybe more info on your thoughts .
Is it sludged or something? 10k? is that strictly hwy miles
Maybe more info on your thoughts .
Is it sludged or something? 10k? is that strictly hwy miles
It's mostly highway. To be exact: my commute is about 80 mi hwy/30 mi city each day (~73% highway).
If I'm not mistaken, the owners manual calls for 7500 mi oil changes (Ford Escort). I figured a 10k OCI and then UOA was a compromise versus going the full 15k that the extended performance is supposedly good for.
There seem to be some positive UOAs with people using MMO, so I figured running the 1/2 quart might be a good idea. Are you suggesting I just ran 100% Mobil 1 unless I'm trying to clean it out or something?
If I'm not mistaken, the owners manual calls for 7500 mi oil changes (Ford Escort). I figured a 10k OCI and then UOA was a compromise versus going the full 15k that the extended performance is supposedly good for.
There seem to be some positive UOAs with people using MMO, so I figured running the 1/2 quart might be a good idea. Are you suggesting I just ran 100% Mobil 1 unless I'm trying to clean it out or something?
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JHZR2
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I see no need
1+
In summary MMO the last 500/1000mi before change, if you really want to.Also,take some time with the VOA/UOA section,great info there.
If Mobil wanted solvent in their oil they would put it in when they made it.
I have MMO in my crankcase right now. [1/2 qt]
And I am glad I did with the [so far] super cold around here.
But I don't intend to use it in the oil all the time.
Certainly not for 10k. I am not sure the M1 alone is good enough for this!
How about adding your 1/2 qt a 500-1K before your change?
And I am glad I did with the [so far] super cold around here.
But I don't intend to use it in the oil all the time.
Certainly not for 10k. I am not sure the M1 alone is good enough for this!
How about adding your 1/2 qt a 500-1K before your change?
I personally do not believe in adding brightstock/stoddard solvent to "thin" out a motor oil. If temperature calls for a lower viscosity grade, go buy the proper viscosity oil and use it in the crankcase instead (5W30/5W20/0W30). Why add foreign stuff into a chemically-balanced motor oil blend to upset it?
Put it in for the last 500 miles. Thats whay I have done, and it has cleaned out a lot of gunk and quieted the sticky lifters in our 3100 Grand Prix.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I see no need
Me either. If the engine has already been cleaned (what did things look like with the cylinder head off???), and the car gets mainly highway miles with a decent synthetic I'd say you can skip the cleaning additives altogether at this point.
I see no need
Me either. If the engine has already been cleaned (what did things look like with the cylinder head off???), and the car gets mainly highway miles with a decent synthetic I'd say you can skip the cleaning additives altogether at this point.
Im currently 2K since adding MMO to my Tacoma. Today i added .5 qrt of oil as before i never had to add any oil.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Im currently 2K since adding MMO to my Tacoma. Today i added .5 qrt of oil as before i never had to add any oil.
I've seen some folks report that MMO seems to "evaporate" over time or somesuch. On my MK3 Jetta (with the same 2.0L engine you've got), I never noticed any issue. What I did notice is that it cleaned up the internals nicely. I had the head off of mine twice (long story) both before and after I fed it 16oz for a full OCI. The difference was night and day from just a casual looksie. The inside of the engine looks almost brand new now except for a light tan "varnish". All the sludge buildup from years of "when I get 'round tuit oil changes with whatever was on sale" was gone. I'm going to replace my pan gasket when it gets a little warmer out so I'll be curious to see how things look down below. Now I'm just running straight Rotella 5W-40 synthetic.
Best,
Im currently 2K since adding MMO to my Tacoma. Today i added .5 qrt of oil as before i never had to add any oil.
I've seen some folks report that MMO seems to "evaporate" over time or somesuch. On my MK3 Jetta (with the same 2.0L engine you've got), I never noticed any issue. What I did notice is that it cleaned up the internals nicely. I had the head off of mine twice (long story) both before and after I fed it 16oz for a full OCI. The difference was night and day from just a casual looksie. The inside of the engine looks almost brand new now except for a light tan "varnish". All the sludge buildup from years of "when I get 'round tuit oil changes with whatever was on sale" was gone. I'm going to replace my pan gasket when it gets a little warmer out so I'll be curious to see how things look down below. Now I'm just running straight Rotella 5W-40 synthetic.
Best,
Originally Posted By: WA1DH
I'm running Mobil 1 5W30 extended performance. I ran 1/2 qt MMO for 2k mi with cheap (Supertech) dino oil after a cylinder head swap. Is it OK to run 1/2 qt MMO for a full 10k mi OCI? Sump capacity is 4 qts, so that's ~13% of sump capacity.
I asked Rich Kelley this same question, and he told me NO. He basically went onto to say that if you are using MMO in your oil for a full OCI that you should stick to the manufactures OCI, which on your car seems to be 7500 miles.
Mobil 1 seems to be a really good oil, if you wanted to use MMO, I would suggest adding some 500 to 1000 miles before your OCI, but if your engine is totally clean inside you may not need to use MMO. JMO
I'm running Mobil 1 5W30 extended performance. I ran 1/2 qt MMO for 2k mi with cheap (Supertech) dino oil after a cylinder head swap. Is it OK to run 1/2 qt MMO for a full 10k mi OCI? Sump capacity is 4 qts, so that's ~13% of sump capacity.
I asked Rich Kelley this same question, and he told me NO. He basically went onto to say that if you are using MMO in your oil for a full OCI that you should stick to the manufactures OCI, which on your car seems to be 7500 miles.
Mobil 1 seems to be a really good oil, if you wanted to use MMO, I would suggest adding some 500 to 1000 miles before your OCI, but if your engine is totally clean inside you may not need to use MMO. JMO
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